Vintage watches - what brands to consider? | FerrariChat

Vintage watches - what brands to consider?

Discussion in 'Fine Watches, Jewelry, & Clothes' started by walnut, Jan 8, 2015.

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  1. walnut

    walnut F1 Rookie
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    I'm kicking around the idea of getting myself a vintage watch, something from the 1900's to 1950's. I've found quite a few that are interesting looking but I know nothing about them. I'd like to get a manual wound movement and would prefer a brand that made its own movements at the time instead of using a generic / third party piece.

    Can anyone give me some recommendations to look for? I don't really have a budget set as I'm just toying with the idea but lets say around $2k which rules out some companies sadly.
     
  2. definitelysomeday

    definitelysomeday Formula Junior

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    Omega, Longines (especially chronographs), LeCoultre are all good in your price range.

    What style of watch? Dress, sport, chrono, every day wear?

    Lots of choices = lots of fun looking. Enjoy the hunt.
     
  3. walnut

    walnut F1 Rookie
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    #4 walnut, Jan 9, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2015
    I had been looking at IWC, Longines, and LeCoultre but will add Omega, Gruen (I used to own a Gruen... it was stolen from my locker in high school) and Audumars.

    I honestly don't know what style I want, its one of those I'll know it when I see it situations, but I will wear any of my watches on a given day. I've been drawn to the 1910's IWC Militär watches for their simplicity. I also like the look of the 1940's Breitling Premier Tricompax but I know they don't use in-house movements, right? I don't know why that matters to me and I'm not sure it will keep me from going that route.

    Thank you for the suggestions.


    That Vacheron LeCoultre is quite interesting!
     
  4. cwilson13

    cwilson13 Formula 3
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    You might take a look at late 1960s and early 1970s Heuer if you want to spend slightly more.

    There are also 1950s Rolex dress watches in steel that can be had in the $2-3k range that are very cool. You just have to do a little hunting.
     
  5. Southpaw F1

    Southpaw F1 Karting

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  6. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    Considering buying my Father in-law a 1957 Rolex Submariner for his 60th Birthday in 2 years time.

    If I can find one and if they are not huge bucks as I don't know they are worth.

    Might still just buy him a new one as I assume that will be trouble free, but one from his same birth year would be cool.

    Haven't had a look for one yet, but if anyone can post up some links to one or someone whom might have one that would be much appreciated.

    Any other advice or tips would be much appreciated also. Are 50's Rolex's reliable to wear as a daily watch in retirement?

    Hope you don't mind me posting in this thread Walnut.
     
  7. walnut

    walnut F1 Rookie
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    PAP, not at all. Anything that results in myself or someone else gaining an education is always welcomed. Per your dilemma, I think that a birth year Rolex would be a great idea and honestly, I would get him that just for the sentimental rationale over a new one, reliability be damned!
     
  8. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    Cheers Rich, appreciate it. :)

    And I also think you're right, that was my intentions to go with the 57 model.

    If I can find one and as long as it won't send me broke. :eek:

    I asked about it's reliability because we don't have a Rolex AD anywhere near here, so if it plays up I don't want him to send this watch back and forth for repairs.

    If they are high maintenance like anything old, then I probably am best off buying him a new one.

    Will have to seriously weigh it all up when the time comes I guess.

    If anyone can share some more info that will be nice.

    Cheers Pap
     
  9. MrOrganic

    MrOrganic Karting

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    Tudor
    Omega
    Huer (also certain tag Huer)
    Breitling
    & make it a CHRONO
     
  10. definitelysomeday

    definitelysomeday Formula Junior

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    Heuer and Breitling didn't make their own movements. Heuer worked with others to develope movements (Breitling did some of that to I think) but neither was a manufacturer of movements.

    Agree on the chrono thing - but most chronos use base movements from other companies (valjoux, landeron, venus etc). Even Rolex used the Valjoux 72 for the Daytona.
     
  11. Kayvan

    Kayvan Karting
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    1900s-1920s is way too early; prices are high, watches are fragile, and re-sale/collectibility is niche. Pocket watches even here.

    1920-1930s collectible among famous names, others obscure.

    1940-1950s is fine, but somewhat conservative in style & limited function

    1960s is very hot right now b/c many iconic models were made and multi-fuctions (chronograph, world-time, GMT, Diving) became robust.

    My take is Chronographs are the hottest and will be for some time.

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/fine-watches-jewelry-clothes/474007-vintage-chronograph-collecting-60s-70s.html#post143653054
     
  12. dsd

    dsd F1 Rookie
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    Omega is a great place to start. Minerva and Heuer can be good options too.

    LeCoultre is a great watch, but make sure you know what you are buying (LeCoultre vs JLC). Also, know whether you want a refinish or original patina-- big money difference.

    Enjoy!
    dsd
     
  13. dsd

    dsd F1 Rookie
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    A 1957 Sub will cost a fortune. Well repaired, they will run great, but thats pretty early for a sub at a reasonable price.

    Best.
    dsd
     
  14. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    Hi mate,

    Thanks for the comment.

    I was thinking about it again, I really do need the reliability, so I think I will just stick to a new one.

    I found one in 'mint' condition for AU $15,500 which I thought was a very reasonable price.

    But just the thought of having to send a 60 year old watch to someone for repair that may or may not have a clue as to what they are doing does not sound like a good idea anymore.

    If it were for me, not a problem as I will have a few and it won't matter if one is being repaired by a specialist. I don't intend to live here in retirement, but my Father in-law does. The closest Rolex AD is 1200 miles away.

    This will be his only watch and will be a daily worn watch so I think it's best to stick with a brand new one and hopefully it will not give him any trouble for a long time.

    Appreciate all the comments made, thank you. :)
     
  15. thetimekeeper

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    #16 thetimekeeper, Jan 20, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 21, 2015
    If you're really thinking Rolex, a bubble back is something to consider. Many of them can be had with original non refinished dials for reasonable money.

    Heuer's of that era are usually Landeron and Valjoux powered. There's no shame in having either one of them as both are great movements and fairly easily repaired by a competent watch maker.

    Longines and Movado were arguably the best movement manufacturers of that era and many even claim that Movado created the calatrava, not Patek.

    Cheers,

    Michael


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  16. definitelysomeday

    definitelysomeday Formula Junior

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    What Michael said

    The M90 movement from Movado is very good. Parts might be a bit rough to find. There is also something funky about the buttons. I forget, but I think they work the opposite of traditional chrono's (bottom might stop and start, top might reset).

    The Longines 13ZN and 30CH are also great. Easier to find these in larger watches (I always found the Movado to be a bit small).
     
  17. cwilson13

    cwilson13 Formula 3
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    PAPs, happen to see this and remembered you were looking for a 1957 Sub. Looks amazing. Great patina. Also, the guy that runs this website is a well known and trusted vintage dealer (Jacek).

    1958 Rolex Submariner 5508 Gilt Chapter Ring
     
  18. dsd

    dsd F1 Rookie
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    I can vouch for Jacek. I bought my Red Sub from him. Great people to deal with.

    -dsd
     
  19. LightGuy

    LightGuy Three Time F1 World Champ
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    It was my assumption that Breitling made their own for the Navitimer.
    There is a large vintage Navitimer group.
    IMO if they did indeed use a common movement that actually could be a good thing.

    Early Daytonas used Zenith movements. GREAT values to be had here if you buy a Deluca Zenith for example; a "better" Daytona at less than half price.
     
  20. bjwhite

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  21. ArtS

    ArtS F1 Veteran
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    BTW, I personally like Glycine's in 18k cases. Nice solid watches without the insane markups.

    Regards,

    Art S.
     
  22. Mang

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    Orfina - Porsche Design chronograph, originals from the 70's...I've worn the same one for 35 years. Did have it refurbished twice in that period, great watch. 'Top Gun' reference...
     
  23. floridadoorman

    floridadoorman Formula Junior

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    Le Coultre, Hamilton. IMHO. For this price range.
     
  24. ArtS

    ArtS F1 Veteran
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    Came upon this website's thread. It has a lot of close up pictures of watches relevant to this thread:
    WRUW December '13

    Regards,

    Art S.
     

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