Branko I agree with Verell. Start with the window up. Trust me when he says you will have to "fight" with the access to the window cable clamps. You will essentially be guessing at the slack length so it's good to know where everything is in the set up prior to disassembling. I'd also replace those little stops at the bottom. That's an easy fix. timr
Bump for an old thread - and couldn't find any other one with an appropriate picture! Trying to work out how the window attaches to the wire going from preceding page diagram...Heath Robinson consulting engineer??? At present, each corner of the removed windows has a sequence of.... 6mm bolt/large washer/teflon(?) washer/glass/teflon washer/large washer/spacer/large flange nut.....parts diagram indicates there may be a couple more washers under the nut missing. Only thought I have, the missing washers are used to clamp onto the wire when the nut is tightened....surely not, or is there some other devious detail I'm missing? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi rick, I would be curious where you got those little bumpers as 2 of mine are gone as well. thanks, Helmut
From my experience, when the cable suddenly feels to short when trying to get it back in it may be because its not coiled up properly around the little groves in the motor mechanism wheel. make sure the wire wound up correctly on the wheel thats attached to the motor. For some reason the cable on mine is quite a bit tighter on the passenger side than on the driver side. Helmut
Someone with time on their hands over Thanksgiving should put together a list of slow-window posts w/ urls and rate them for subject and quality. A single search won't do it. Much of it is repeats. But still valuable resource exists there. Although there is some consensus like removing grease, there is no single way to approach the job like adding relays or not, and no single approach to replacing the cable, like window up/down/halfway. Not everyone needs to agree nor approaches each job the same way. But we could do the next poor victim a great benefit by providing a sticky that contains a rated post list.
Wow, talk about an old thread back from the dead! The windows in these things are definitely a poor design. There are multiple things that slow them down. 1. Resistance to the window itself moving caused by the window tracks. 2. Dirty pulleys with no/old lube, not wanting to turn as the cable moves over them. 3. The old grease in the motor gearbox has turned to sticky goo. All of the three above issues translate to a lot of mechanical resistance. This is turn makes the motor work harder to push the window up. The result is that the motor draws much more current that it is supposed to. If you know your Ohm's Law, when the motor draws more current, that means that the electrical resistance in the circuit causes a larger voltage drop, so there is less voltage at the motor. Less voltage at the motor translates to a slower motor. Causes of resistance in the circuit are: 1. The godawful fuseblocks (you guys know where I stand on that!) 2. Switch contacts (clean them with contact cleaner, it really can help! I like the stuff from Radio Shack.) 3. Long circuit path. The current has to go from the battery to the fuseblock to the switch to the motor, back to the switch and then to ground. It doesn't have a "local" ground in the door because the motors change direction by changing polarity. That means there are two wires from the switch to the motor. When the motor goes up, you have one polarity. When it goes down, the wires change polarity. This can only happen at the switch. So in the case of a Mondial or injected 308 where the switches are in the center console, the current has to go from the fuseblocks to the switch to the window, all the way back to the switch, then to ground! I measured the voltage at my Mondial driver's window motor once and found only 7 volts when the window was going up! That's barely more than half the voltage!! Where the heck did the other 5 voltage go? It turned into heat at resistance points along the circuit path! Ever wonder why your carbed 308 has a much faster driver's window than passenger window? For the drivers window, the switch for the window is in the driver's door. The power has a short run from the motor, back to the switch and to ground. However, in the passenger window, there are two switches....one in the passenger door and another in the driver's door. When the driver puts the passenger window up, the power goes from the battery to the fuseblocks to the driver's door switch, across the car to the passenger door switch, down to the motor, back up to the passenger door switch, across the car again to the driver's door switch, then to ground. I'll bet there is less than 6 volts getting to that motor! (The path is shorter if the passenger switch is used to put the window up....I'll bet it's a tad faster). The best and most complete way to fix these windows is to: 1. Disassemble and clean all the mechanical stuff. Pain in the neck, but makes a big difference. 2. Clean the contacts on all the switches with contact cleaner. 3. Replace the fuseblocks (small plug for me, but it's true...OEM ones are a large cause of resistance). 4. Install window accelerators. A little plug for the accelerators.....I have a set of the window accelerators in the Mondial and yes they do work. The latest generation ones are really well made, completely "potted" in epoxy and totally waterproof. I have nothing to do with the product except being a satisfied customer. They work better if you have cleaned the mechanical stuff too so you are fighting as little mechanical resistance as possible. How do they work? They have three terminals: a ground wire that goes so a solid ground in the door, and a wire that hooks to each of the wires on the window motor. Inside the boxes are a small pair of relays. When the "up" wire on the motor goes hot (you are pushing the up button to put the window up), it uses that signal to activate a relay and ground the other motor wire to the local ground wire in the door. When you push the down button, it swaps and puts the other wire to local ground. It essentially cuts out the long path for ground back to the switch. I had a 2 volt improvement (9 instead of 7 volts) at the window motor with this gadget and it made a noticeable difference in window speed. Many people choose to just put in the accelerators and not touch the mechanicals. You will get a good improvement in speed for sure. However, you will get even better results if you do the mechanical clean up too. I will admit that the mechanicals are a pain in the butt to disassemble and clean. At the very least, pull the door open and lube the window tracks and pulleys! It helps! Birdman
I just finished cleaning and greasing my left door, now the window will slowly creep up. The measured voltage at the motor is just under 6 volts. The measured voltage at the switch is about 6.5 The loss is somewhere between the battery and the switch on both wires. The loss includes fuses, loss of .2volts, ignition switch, harness gang connectors, loss in the wire and ground lug connection...where ever the heck that is. I am going to purchase, per door, 2 SPDT (single pole double throw) relays, mount them under the dash close to the door connector. Control them with the Ferrari window wiring and power them with a large wire, fused and powered from a high current non switched source. A good ground can or should be available close to where I mount the relays. The reason I dont want the relays in the doors is because I dont want to add additional wires to the door harness and have to worry about water getting into the relays and additional connections.
I have yet to take a look inside my doors but it sounds like an adventure I will take someday. I am curious as I look at the drawing posted above, what keeps the cable from slipping at the motor? Is it one long cable or are there multiple cables?
I have an additional problem with my passenger door window. I can actually live with my slow windows but this other problem demands attention so I will probably address the slowness at the same time. The window on my passenger door does not raise straight up. The rear of the window is a bit lower than it should be relative to the front. Looking at the car with the window up and the door closed it is obvious because the gap between the door frame and the window gets smaller at the top. Even this I could live with but it has gotten to the point now that if I close the door with the window up the glass touches the door frame and it has actually chipped the paint. So now I am worried about the glass breaking or the chip getting worse so it just has to be addressed. What is involved to get that alignment adjusted? Image Unavailable, Please Login
The window clamps to the drive cable at the front and rear. To adjust, loosen the nuts and washers, level the window, and retighten. There is also an adjustable up-stop at the rear clamp.
