Countach Technical Thread & Questions

Joey:

I'm still waiting for the parts to arrive from Bill @ GT Car Parts.

The water pump cover won't be ready for 2 weeks, so I'm not in a hurry for the parts... Yet


Mike

 

a stupid question: what are the torque specs of the countach oil plug and differential plug?
i forgot and cant find it in my docs

 

I'll put together a list of all the parts that I am replacing. They are starting to trickle in.

First is the new water pump drive shaft. Here is a shot of the old and new side-by-side. Not hard to see why mine was leaking! The seal had failed exposing the spring inside the rubber seal and allowing it to rub for who knows how long against the shaft. It was also heavily pitted, rusted, etc.

Mike
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First is the new water pump drive shaft. Here is a shot of the old and new side-by-side. Not hard to see why mine was leaking! The seal had failed exposing the spring inside the rubber seal and allowing it to rub for who knows how long against the shaft. It was also heavily pitted, rusted, etc.

Mike

The looks of the shaft have nothing to do with the seal leaking. There are 2 places the pump will leak, 1 the seal fails, and 2 the bore where the seal fits, is not as smooth as glass, allowing leakage past the OD of the seal.
You just paid several hundred dollars to have a pretty water pump shaft.
Chadbourn Bolles
803 532 6257
email: [email protected]

 

Chad:

The seal was ripped wide open. The spring inside the seal had been dragging on the shaft and caused a groove to form. Water was on it for quite some time as the area where the seal rides is rusted and pitted. It was a cheap $200 to spend for piece of mind.

Mile

 

I'm curious Chad, or anyone, if you put anything on the seal (for coating, protecting, or lubricating) when you put it together?

 

Joey:

I've heard a couple of folks recommend the same lubricant that is used for o-rings and pump seals on submerged pond pumps.

I think Chad has recommended the same. Maybe he'll jump and let us know if that is true.

Like Chad has stated, the big area of concern is the pump body where the seal is at. If not perfect, water will just creep right past it.

Mike

 

The new shaft looks good and there's nothing wrong with using new parts but I agree with Chad. The seal normally never touches the shaft. It seals between the housing and the back surface of the impeller. As long as the shaft is straight and the impeller spins true, it shouldn't leak, until the crummy seal fails again. Frequently the housing gets corroded where the seal fits. I've filled the pits with JB Weld with some success. The most important part of Lamborghini water pump maintenance is making sure the weep hole stays open so you know when it's time to do it all again.

 

Since I can't post multiple images from my iPad, here are 2 images of my failed seal.

It was very dry and brittle. Note in the one photo, how the seal actually looks twisted where it is suppose to seal against the pump.

The other photo shows how the seal was broken into 2 pieces. The spring you see on the inside of the seal was dragging on the pump shaft and put a groove in it.

Mike
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2nd photo

Mike
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BTW: the seal is from a washing machine.
Depending which version you got it might not fit since there are variations.
http://www.countach.ch/HeadGasket/Step13/index.html

 

This came with mine.
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I had my oil analyzed and got the results. For motor, differential and transaxle. It seems that all passed with flying colors as I was a bit worried at passed 30k kms and never any serious rebuild on anything.
Doing this it seems I busted the myth of changing the oil too frequently even if you dont put a lots of miles.
but more important is the transaxle oil and differential oil.They were in there for quite some time and dont exude any component wear at all. that was a very happy report. That said blackstone does not have a lot of comps for the countach and they base their opinion and summary on other similar cars.
Has anyone done this and if so we could exchange info here or in private if that is better suited for someone.
I'd like to trade reports and numbers so we can do real countach comps.

 

First piece completed on the water pump.

Previous owner had tried to fix the cracked water pump cover with silicone, etc.

This is what it looks like when a professional does it!

Beautiful craftsmanship!

Mike
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Well done, and now you will sand and polish the pump like I did?
Lamborghini Countach #GLA12997 Head Gasket Fix

 

Very nice Raymond! Looks better than new!

Mike

 

I had a onetime occurrence yesterday that I can’t get to repeat:

A loud high pitch buzz/hum coming from the left side front near the AC fan and horn. Sounded like the door open buzzer but 10 times louder.

Any Thoughts?

 

Also, check either of the 2 little fans on the condensor. When the bearings go, they sound awful!!! I had to replace one of mine!

However, fear not. It's the same thing and it's used on a FIAT X1/9. They are pretty cheap, however kind of a bugger to get out!

Mike

 

Car was parked, idling. Turned the ignition off then back on and surprisingly the noise was gone.

I'll check those out. Thanks for correcting me. When I said AC fan I should have said condenser fan(s). Doesn't sound like a fun job.

 

The fans are from a Fiat 850 and are used as their heater blower motor.

Only $55.99.
http://www.midwest-bayless.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=208227&c=192686&i=258646396

I can't remember what I paid for mine but thank goodness it was the easier of the two to change. the other one that's harder to get at is fine on my car for right now. Knock on wood!

Mike

 

Any experience out there regarding removing the smog/air pump an a 88 fi qv,other than a lot less clutter in the engine compartement? Any negatives i need to know? Or should it be left the way it is. Any info is greatly appreciated.thanks

 

I recommend removing it. It doesn't even operate except at idle, to clean up the exhaust for the then-mandated emissions limits at idle. It is easy to remove, and it is also easy to reinstall at a later date if desired. It's removal does clean the engine bay up, and sames a little weight too!

 

I would remove it also. Cleans up the engine bay nicely. Just keep the entire set up for the next person. You will just have to buy 12 caps to cap the disconnected tubes from the exaust manifolds. If you need to know what size they are, let me know. I can dig thru my notes.