Thanks Mikael. Think I first need doing as you suggest, twist the rotor slightly to check the mechanical advance. Car was running well prior to misfire occurred. If the mechanical advance is stuck, will cap internals look like in the above picture? Or can it just be that timing is slightly off? Car is a 1986 Quattrovalvole and yes, the MSD is a Multispark system.
Timing wheel is under pointer, inside distributor, if it is stuck to one end, allthough it does not move that much, timing and pointer will point towards where ever it is stuck. But these are just my random thoughts from these symptoms, have fun! btw, just remember; I broght some of Countach photos and instructions here to this forum. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/451351-my-512bb-diy-thread.html
Can someone post a picture of the Countach fuel tank(s) out of the car. More than one angle would be great.
Looking at the inside of the cap the arc marks are 60 crankshaft degrees out. The advance weights at best could only account for 20 crank degrees. I believe the distributor was set up incorrectly. Judging by the markings it appears half of its life it was set correctly and half it was incorrect. I cannot tell based on the cap if it is correct or incorrect now. I recommend verifying the setup as is now i.e. the number one cylinder goes to the number one location on the cap along with the number one cylinder on its firing stroke with magnetic trigger in the right location. Cheers Jim
My manual says the 5000s holds 13.5 quarts of oil, I know this is not correct. Can someone tell me the official number
Can somebody confirm the control arm lengths such as shown in the picture? This is for a LP400S; I think the suspension is closer/similar to a LP500S rather than a LP400? Image Unavailable, Please Login
I Hope these will help Hans. Credit to Albert's rebuild. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Very cool shots. For the experts - have there been different paint schemes of the gas tanks over the years? The ones in an early S2 LP400S are gold-color painted.
Hope this helps. See the attached. Chadbourn Bolles 803 532 6257 803 798 3044 Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have such a stupid question after confusing myself in an embarrassing way but I just dont want to screw this up. This winter, I had to remove my dead battery and I ordered a new Interstate. I would swear my prior optima red top battery, which I dumped 1 month ago, had the positive on the passenger side terminal, just like the new interstate on the pictures below. But here is the confusion. I realize the wire that is supposed to go to the positive on the passenger side is actually connected to the car's chassis (wire with quick disconnect circled red). Are the Countach positive grounded? If not then I am not sure what is going on and how I will handle this because the other wire that I think connects to the battery negative (yes it has some red wire to confuse me more) is not long enough to go to the positive terminal on the far passenger side. Also it appears my battery tender positive wire is connected to the chassis. I should have taken picts or not remove the old battery until getting the new one. I dont know why I am so confused on such a simple job. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Definitely a negative ground on the Countach. I use an Interstate also, an MT-24F and as you can tell the terminals are reversed on mine. Mike Image Unavailable, Please Login
My postive is also on the right hand side on my QV, as you look at it, standing in front of the car. R
arghh! I got an mtp34. when i bought the car it had an MT34. So the terminals are reversed on the MTP34? i asssumed if mt34 was good so would mtp34. or may be it comes with both configurations
I use a Deka 734MF ,wich i turned installed with the poles towards the back , this way the compartment looks uncluttered and clean,and the pos pole remains on the driver side, also i use a 1/2 inch stud style shoe,wich makes exelent countact and easy dissconect.
+1 for the MT-24F. The proper/original fit for a Countach is a group 24 - a group 34 is original for the Diablo. Using interstate, for the group 24 you want the F suffix for proper/original terminal orientation. Using the group 34, you would want the R suffix, again for proper/original terminal orientation. See: http://www.interstatedealers.com/ibcatalog/common/automotive_spec.pdf -mick
I got it now. There is an option for terminal location which i did not specify so of course i got the wrong one. I assumed it would be correct as this was the model i bought the car with. Thanks to all of you guys. You are the best.
I have a 19system to a PerTronix ignition system. I am looking for advice from people that have tried this on the 3.292 liter engine. Ease of installation? Cost? Effect on tachometer? Reliable? Increased performance? etc.? I have 2 distributors -- that must complicate things. I am leaning toward PerTronix as I do not want a system that can be noticed -- I want to keep the car as nearly stock as I can and I believe the PerTronix system adds a wire but otherwise fits within the distributor cap. Thanks David
One question for the group - can somebody shed some insight about the typical oil pressure that goes through the Countach hoses to the radiator and through the rest of the system? We're looking to pressure test the entire system before putting the engine back in the car and connecting everything up. Thanks.
It depends if QV or not. LP400-LP5000S have a high pressure circuit with max 10 bar, the QV engine has a separate low pressure pump.
This is a Lp400S; so testing would have to be with a compressor if it was at that high pressure. 10 bar is ~150 psi so that sounds quite high?
Quick request for the group - is there a list of the correct hose clamps that are used on the Countach? Thank you