I was interested in it but I had no idea were to start to being the hunt! It was sitting out in what looked like a salvage yard. It was a dark blue rubber bumper car with black trim I think, eading me to believe it was a P200 or P2000
I went to its earlier exact resting spot in Sharjah last Friday and it was gone. I have a suspicion where it might have ended up, but spending a day to drive out there just to find out I was wrong does not appeal too much. I found a dead TR in the meantime (but am not certain I need another project TR - I am still finishing the one I have).
Funny. Although many of the owners here probably could not care less about selling. I know of a LM002 which was left on a beach up the coast when it broke down while off roading in the dunes at someone's beach house. I saw it after it had been sprayed with salt water. For years. Tragic, but even then the seller would not sell.
Man that's sad... I would have love to have had that project urraco ... Image Unavailable, Please Login
is this AGIP lubrificanti decal for urraco ? was it also used for other lamborghini models ? Image Unavailable, Please Login
The process continues! The liners are being installed today and the gearbox is being dismantled. Everything is going pretty smoothly except that that we have to get some unobtainable parts, delaying the whole process quite a bit. The factory doesn't give a leadtime, which I guess is normal! We'll wait one more week and try the search ourselves. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hei, why you do not blast out the green surface off the inner engine block? In most cases the tightening surfaces are not free of corrosion marks. Despite the manual you should use very little amount of sealant (e.g. Reinzosil) just to be sure. The liners have to be 0.1 to 0.13mm higher than the surrounding engine block. If you have little corrosion on the engine block, it could help to add very little sealant, too just to fill the gaps due to the corrosion in the tightening surface. The cylinder heads are tightened up only with 6mkg. Good luck for a non leaking engine! Martin (pulled the engine twice due to loss of water)
Those rod bearings look awful...you should take a long hard look at the oiling system before putting the motor back together ! Paul
Hei, the fitting track rod end for Urraco (FRAP 511, VW Bus Mk II, BMW 02-series, ...) is avaliable in turning clockwise (FRAP 511) and counter-clockwise (FRAP 512). Can anybody give me any Information if I need two clockwise-turning, one clockwise one counter-clockwise or two counter-clockwise turning items? I think the left hand threat item (FRAP 512) is normally the inner tie rod end but Urraco has no inner rod end. Frap - OEM Thanks, Martin
Hi Emilio, the AGIP lubricants decal of your picture should be correct for early production Urracos (attached pic shows this decal on a early production example). Anyway I'm not sure that this label has rounded corners, since I've found it with straight corners (see other attached pic, decal nr 04). I reproduced it on Autocad dwg file and it can be easily laser printed on a polyester autoadhesive sheet with a perfect result, i.e. as original. If you need the file please let me know. ciao Francesco Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi everyone, Thanks again for the comments. The bearings will be changed and the oiling system has had a thorough check. Everything is in order. Thanks Martin for the tips on the tightening, I hope it'll be watertight the first time... Still waiting for some parts, but in the meantime the gearbox is being taken care of!
Hi Everyone, I know I'm preaching to the choir here but I think the Urraco the most beautiful car ever. Recently I went to see a Ferrari Mondial 3.2 for sale. As we were walking to view the Mondial I saw in the background the tail end of a Urraco. I said to the "seller" "don't tell me that's a Urraco?" He couldn't believe it!! He told me I was only the second person he had met that knew what the car was (the other was his mechanic!!). Well the Urraco is also for sale (you can view it on Hemings). Would love to hear/to get all of your expert opinion(s) on the car, especially any thing specific I should know/find out. Can't tell you how much I would appreciate it. I know the "ask" is high (dealer price), but I know he's pretty "flexible". My non-expert opinion on the Urraco market, such as it is, is that a "driver", and a private sale, price should be 80-100k. Feel free to pm if you wish. Thanks to all. Temple
Sorry; I'm speaking of the yellow one, not the one at Gullwing. Unless everyone thinks that the superior example (very, very doubtful, although it is a 300).
Judging from the vin quoted as A115072A and the narrative this is 15072 originally bianco/nero. Only the earliest cars had the boot badge.
Thank you P300V8!! Re "only the earliest cars had the boot badge" is this a good thing or not? I'm more a Ferrari guy myself, but the Urraco? My first, and true love!! Lol I know that Ferrari gradually improves on a car's "weaknesses" (you may know that the "M", as in the 456M, stands for "modified"). So does the fact that this is an early car make it more or less desirable? What do you think a fair offer would be for it? Thanks again P300V8. Temple
Dear Temple, The Urraco is a fantastic car! It is without discussion one of the best cars I have ever owned. Great engine (mine is a 250), with a wonderful noise. By today's standards it is maybe not the most powerful V8 ever, but it is very balanced and rev happy. What is great is that it really suits well the modern traffic conditions. So you can derive a lot of pleasure without putting yourself or your driver's license in danger! On the other hand the chassis is really amazing. It is a really nimble car with a fantastic roadholding. The thing is really to find a good example because a lot of them were neglected and have passed though a vast number of hands without proper maintenance. Don't hesitate to share pictures! Really happy to help if possible!
Thank you EM42!! You can see the car in question in all its glory on the Hemmings web-site as that is where it is currently listed. I'm going to see the seller again in a couple weeks, I'll be sure to take lots of pics then. Any areas of the car I should pay special attention to?
Beautiful specs, to me it checks all the boxes in terms of specs: early boot badge, chunky early interior, great colour combination. But as always, it is very difficult to tell from pictures. What I would check: - rust, rust, rust, rust... These italian 70s cars could even rust standing still in climate controlled garages, joking but you get the point. I saw a bit of superficial rust on one of the boot pictures. So a whole check is definitely on the list. - check that all the electrics + A/C are working. It is very unlikely that everything works, and it is very time consuming to sort out. - does it possess its books and tools. - is it matching numbers/colours. - check the compression of the engine, the state of the gearbox, suspension, barke system, etc... And maybe the best investment you can do is a pre purchase inspection from an independent third party. It'll save you a lot of money and could help you find a good deal with the seller. All the best! Keep us posted!
Yes the Urraco is very pretty [Gandini] and was technically advanced [Stanzani] for its day. The non S early cars with boot badge, chunky seats and original solid colour palette are the purest form of Urraco as this was how they were originally intended, and would be my choice for a P250. But get a pre purchase inspection as restoration can be very expensive and this needs to be factored into the purchase price. No body parts are available and factory spares if available can be eyewateringly expensive!
I see this car has had some recent mechanical work. Nevertheless you should in particular check for written evidence that the original sodium filled exhaust valves have been replaced with solid stainless valves. A potentially catastrophic feature of these engines after 40+ years!
