99 SV High Idle | FerrariChat

99 SV High Idle

Discussion in 'LamborghiniChat.com' started by Rv5, Oct 30, 2011.

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  1. Rv5

    Rv5 Formula Junior

    Dec 22, 2005
    333
    Full Name:
    Ross V
    #1 Rv5, Oct 30, 2011
    I have a 99 SV that idles at around 2k when cold and settles to about 1300 when warm. I know these are tempremental cars, but I dont assume thats normal. Is there any common problems that may cause this that I can look into? thanks guys
     
  2. BULL RUN

    BULL RUN Formula 3

    Dec 18, 2004
    1,684
    #2 BULL RUN, Oct 30, 2011
    A little off. The idle is a little high, should be about 1,100. There are two bolt heads underneath each throttle body that you use to adjust idle. They should be even with one another. That'll probably lower the cold idle too, to about 1,800, and it shouldn't stay there long.
     
  3. kaoss

    kaoss Formula 3

    Jul 29, 2006
    1,166
    Portland, Oregon
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    KAOSS
    #3 kaoss, Oct 30, 2011
    Clean your throttle bodies and synchronize...clean really well. Should see immediate results.
     
  4. Rv5

    Rv5 Formula Junior

    Dec 22, 2005
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    Ross V
    #4 Rv5, Oct 30, 2011
    awesome, thanks for the good advice guys. will check and follow both immediately.
     
  5. Rv5

    Rv5 Formula Junior

    Dec 22, 2005
    333
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    Ross V
    #5 Rv5, Nov 1, 2011
    should the throttle bodies be cleaned in place or is it better to take them off? car only has 6k miles, is it common for these cars to need this?
     
  6. BULL RUN

    BULL RUN Formula 3

    Dec 18, 2004
    1,684
    #6 BULL RUN, Nov 1, 2011
    Shouldn't need it.
     
  7. kaoss

    kaoss Formula 3

    Jul 29, 2006
    1,166
    Portland, Oregon
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    KAOSS
    #7 kaoss, Nov 2, 2011
    You can clean them on the car, it's actually easier to do so.

    In terms of needing it...that's all relative to how the car was stored over the years, how often it was started and DRIVEN...if it was just started and idled, then yeah, you'll probably need to clean them.

    The Murcie's do the same thing, my last 2 Diablo's did the same...it only takes about 30 minutes to clean all of them...make sure to open the throttle up and clean where the baffle seats to the body...this is usually an area of slight build up...and a tiny bit of build up is enough to cause them to not close completely which makes your computer "hunt" for the right idle speed.

    It's not uncommon to need.
     
  8. Rv5

    Rv5 Formula Junior

    Dec 22, 2005
    333
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    Ross V
    #8 Rv5, Nov 8, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Guys, here's a pic of one of the throttle bodies. I have put circles on the three adjustment screws I see. Two of them (red and blue) appear as some sort of obvious adjustments. The red is contacting and the blue has a gap when the car is off. But I think you guys are talking about adjusting the third (yellow) and since it's different from what I'm used to seeing I thought I would double check that this is the adjustment to lower the idle. Also, because it has "don't screw with this" paint on it. Thanks.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  9. BULL RUN

    BULL RUN Formula 3

    Dec 18, 2004
    1,684
    #9 BULL RUN, Nov 9, 2011
    It's the big one below, so break loose the "don't screw with it paint". :) Again, both sides should be even.
     
  10. Rv5

    Rv5 Formula Junior

    Dec 22, 2005
    333
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    Ross V
    #10 Rv5, Nov 9, 2011
    Thanks....EVEN meaning adjust both sides the exact same amount? It looks like maybe the adjustment is to screw it IN (or up) more?
     
  11. BULL RUN

    BULL RUN Formula 3

    Dec 18, 2004
    1,684
    #11 BULL RUN, Nov 9, 2011
    Yea about the same amount of threads showing on both. I don't remember what direction, but you'll find out.
     
  12. Rv5

    Rv5 Formula Junior

    Dec 22, 2005
    333
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    Ross V
    #12 Rv5, Nov 11, 2011
    OK, loosened the lock nut and they turned easily by hand. Gave each one a half turn in before I tried starting, hopefully to get that cold idle down a bit. I did notice when looking into the input of the throttle body through the little opening for these that each one was rather dark with gunk and wondered if I should pull them to clean. Then I thought go ahead and start her up....I can always come back to that.

    But, when I went to start the car the battery was way low..too low. This has never happened before as I keep it on the float charger that came with the car. Measured the output of the float charger...10.6 volts...hmmmm. Battery was at like 11.6 volts after a night on a real charger. So now I'm thinking I have a bad float charger and a bad battery. Is there a preferred battery by you guys for this car? Everybody else in the car world seems to love the Optimas.....will they fit?

    Also, on the engine compartment driver side firewall there is a port that looks like a mini 12V accessory plug...what is this?

    Thanks guys.....you're help is REALLY appreciated.......
     
  13. BULL RUN

    BULL RUN Formula 3

    Dec 18, 2004
    1,684
    #13 BULL RUN, Nov 11, 2011
    Optima's suck. Get an Interstate MT34. I know the socket your speaking of but never used it. Ideally you want to run a set of wires with a trailer connector or other small plug through the wheel well louvers. Then you can just pull it out and plug the maintainer in.
     
  14. Rv5

    Rv5 Formula Junior

    Dec 22, 2005
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    Ross V
    #14 Rv5, Nov 13, 2011
    OK, Interstate it is. And now that I've pulled it an Interstate is what was in there. Is this the OEM battery? And do you know if the stock setup was a 34 or a 34R?

    My car already has the trailer connector, that's how I used the float charger. Although my connector is in the engine compartment so I have to open her up a bit to get to it......
     
  15. BULL RUN

    BULL RUN Formula 3

    Dec 18, 2004
    1,684
    #15 BULL RUN, Nov 13, 2011
    Not the OEM battery. Don't see any difference between a 34 and 34R, except the "R" says it's pure lead. All the ratings are the same, I say no difference.
     
  16. gday

    gday Formula 3

    Sep 10, 2004
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    Mick
    #16 gday, Nov 14, 2011
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2011
    R is "reverse post" ie the placement of the neg and pos terminals are swapped. Sort of important especially if you have short wires.

    -mick
     
  17. gday

    gday Formula 3

    Sep 10, 2004
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    #17 gday, Nov 14, 2011
    OEM was a FIAMM 90G42L which I think you will find was a group 34R.

    -mick
     
  18. Rv5

    Rv5 Formula Junior

    Dec 22, 2005
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    Ross V
    #18 Rv5, Nov 14, 2011
    Progress report....

    Got all the battery issues worked out, so back to the idle.

    I pulled both idle adjustment "needles" and cleaned and re-lubed the O-rings. Now if I screw them ALL THE WAY IN the idle drops to 1000, so I guess backing them off just a tad will get me nicely to 1100, which you guys say is correct. It just seems weird to have an inch of adjustment but to find the "sweet spot" only like one thread down?

    So this may be a new thread, but, now I'm concerned with the float charger It came with the car and I assumed it was from the factory. It's made by BRW Technology in Illinois. It was putting out barely over 10 volts, so I popped it open and found a trim pot, which when adjusted all the way improved the output to 11 volts. But of course this is still low. I use the Harbor Freight float chargers on all my other cars, they seem to work fine and cost about $5 each.

    So, is there anything special about the BRW unit? Should I have it repaired? Or or these exact units still available? Does it even matter?
     
  19. gday

    gday Formula 3

    Sep 10, 2004
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    Mick
    #19 gday, Nov 14, 2011
    Factory did not supply a charger.
    No. You need a new charger.

    -mick
     
  20. Rv5

    Rv5 Formula Junior

    Dec 22, 2005
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    Ross V
    #20 Rv5, Nov 14, 2011
    Alrighty then, I think we're done here!

    Thanks Bull, Mick and Kevin.......
     
  21. BULL RUN

    BULL RUN Formula 3

    Dec 18, 2004
    1,684
    #21 BULL RUN, Nov 15, 2011
    Please don't put a $5.00 charger on your Diablo. :(
     
  22. Rv5

    Rv5 Formula Junior

    Dec 22, 2005
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    Ross V
    #22 Rv5, Nov 17, 2011
    Really? The one that came with the car (that died) looks about the same as the Harbor Freight units....and I use them on the whole collection. What do you recommend?

    Also please check my new thread and help get me through a fault code issue!
     
  23. BULL RUN

    BULL RUN Formula 3

    Dec 18, 2004
    1,684
    #23 BULL RUN, Nov 17, 2011
    Anything that cost's more than $5.00? :)
     
  24. Rv5

    Rv5 Formula Junior

    Dec 22, 2005
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    Ross V
    #24 Rv5, Nov 17, 2011
    well that's the sales price...I guess I could wait for the sale to go off....then it's about $8...is that enough? lol
     
  25. Champboat/Champcar

    Champboat/Champcar Formula Junior

    Jan 29, 2007
    885
    Freeport NY
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    Eric T
    #25 Champboat/Champcar, Nov 17, 2011
    you do not really need a tender charger on a Diablo , I had a old battery in my car for 2 years , never had a problem , I just replaced it with a interstate , i pull the main switch in the cabin when the car sits , but it never sits for more than a couple of weeks , the key to have your car running good is to use it as much as you can .every few tank fulls i add a Lucas fuel system cleaner and top cylinder lube .
     
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