Bora Up and Running | FerrariChat

Bora Up and Running

Discussion in 'Maserati' started by muttsjet, Oct 19, 2014.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. muttsjet

    muttsjet Karting

    Nov 9, 2003
    69
    #1 muttsjet, Oct 19, 2014
    After sitting a long time due to what I thought was untraceable electrical smoke from under the passenger dash (turned out to be burned out voltage regulator), got the 73 Bora (17500k) up and running yesterday after replacing alternator and rebuilding fuel system. Ran great (minor backfiring issue to deal with) with no oil, coolant or fuel leaks. Standard green juice leak below rebuilt pump.

    Saw in the forum that bleeding brakes is using top nipple, and doing in order RF,LF, RR, and LR. Thanx.

    Before reinstalling fire wall and putting seats back in, a question on voltage. Have 100amp one wire alternator installed. New Everstart Maxx H6 battery. Voltage with car running is a steady 14.5 (except when fans, etc kick in). Seems high but appears to be in normal range as best I can tell. Does this sound right?

    Thanx
    Mark
     
  2. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula 3

    Jul 15, 2012
    1,224
    New York and Norway
    Full Name:
    Art
    #2 71Satisfaction, Oct 19, 2014
    It doesn't sound wrong exactly, but probably something to check if it never drops below that, to something more like 13.5v. Do you suspect your headlights are unusually bright? If not, it could be just your gauge reads high.

    If you're concerned, verify the 14v+ indication using an outside voltmeter before you go further.

    My volt gauge will indicate in the 14's after start but only until the battery is recharged from the start cycle. After that it indicates in the high-to-mid-13 range.

    Best,
    - Art
     
  3. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Mar 13, 2005
    91,594
    Fuggetaboutitland
    Full Name:
    Bob
    #3 staatsof, Oct 19, 2014
    Well one wire alternators do have an inherent design flaw when compared to the remote sense variety. A remote sense type uses the voltage it senses at properly selected sampling spot, usually the battery, to determine the systems voltage and adjust accordingly whereas the single wire type can only sense it's own output at it's connection terminal.

    You might try and measure the actual voltage with a digital VOM at say the battery and fuse box main feed to see what the voltage is actually reading there as opposed to your gauge on the dash.

    Though usually in these older cars the gauge reads lower due to wiring harness and connection degradation over time.

    But it's a good place to start!

    Good,idea on the upgrade.

    So I assume you've disconnected the old voltage regulator?

     

Share This Page