Bora - moving US bumpers closer to body | FerrariChat

Bora - moving US bumpers closer to body

Discussion in 'Maserati' started by thecarnut, Mar 4, 2015.

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  1. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie
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    #1 thecarnut, Mar 4, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The big rubber bumpers on the 1975 and later US Boras (and Meraks and Khamsins) were designed to absorb impacts of up to 5 MPH, which was the regulation at that time. In 1982 the regulation was changed so that bumpers only had to absorb impacts of up to 2.5 MPH ... which is a big difference. Unfortunately my 1977 Bora not only has the big rubber bumpers but the bumpers stick out quite a bit from the body to meet the 1977 bumper regulations.

    I want to move the bumpers closer to the body and I am hoping someone in this forum has already done this. I started with the rear bumper as it only takes two bolts to remove it from the car. The rear bumper is mounted on two shocks designed to absorb impact. My first thought was to use a hydraulic ram to push the shock inwards. The shock collapsed about 3 inches but it immediately expanded when the ram pressure was released. I pulled one of the rear bumper shocks from the car; as expected it is quite heavy.

    Does anybody know what is inside this shock? Is there a spring, gas, oil or ??? I read somewhere that drilling a hole in the shock would permit it to collapse permanently. Has anyone done this (and survived)? The thought of drilling a hole into this big shock scares the heck out of me!

    Ivan
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  2. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #2 staatsof, Mar 4, 2015
    Why are you fighting this so?

    Replace it with something else and thus have the originals for preservation sakes?

     
  3. 575 Maranello

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    #3 575 Maranello, Mar 4, 2015
    Just construct new bumper mounts that mimic the shocks but only shorter. Piece of cake.
     
  4. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie
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    #4 thecarnut, Mar 4, 2015
    Of course I've thought about this. Making new mounts can be done but it is not a piece of cake. The diameter of the pipe is different in the body side than the bumper. Also there is a square rubber "thingy" that fits around the shock that would need to be removed and placed over the newly constructed mount. In other words, I would have to destroy the old mount to use some of the parts. If I am going to destroy the old mount why not just drill a hole in it?

    I would like to hear from someone that has actually moved the bumpers closer to the body.

    Ivan
     
  5. 575 Maranello

    575 Maranello Formula Junior

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    #5 575 Maranello, Mar 4, 2015
    I understand your point. I guess I should have been more specific. If you or some one you know has some fabrication and welding skills this should be a piece of cake.

    Two pipe sized welded together and construct a box from sheet metal. Does it have to be rubber?

    See what I mean?
     
  6. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #6 staatsof, Mar 5, 2015
    You're talking about the rears as being a problem?

    Ivan, have you actually had it apart yet? I have. As I recall it the rubber boot goes over the round shock on one end and over the welded in square mount on the other end.

    Take the bumpers off and have a look.
     
  7. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie
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    #7 thecarnut, Mar 5, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I am surprised by your response since I thought I had been clear that I took the rear bumper apart .... and even posted a photo of the bumper shock out of the car.

    I know how the bumper is mounted and I also know that a good fabricator (which I am not) should be able to make a replacement bracket. My question: Is there a safe way to collapse the original bumper shock ?

    Ivan
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  8. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #8 staatsof, Mar 5, 2015
    That rubber block looks like it's glued in place on yours?
    I don't think it was on mine but it's been quite some time.

    But I was talking about the rubber boot. On mine the undersides were fried to death from all of that heat whilst driving at over 4000Ft of elevation in CO.

    I sawed off the square metal mounts so that they are behind that rear grill and still there is enough to accept the shocks and through bolt so as to effect a good and secure mount.

    If you can locate Stephen James I'm pretty sure he's the one who commissioned having this done on 1044 when he owned it. I think the shop was in Florida and I believe I even talked with the guy who ,did the work once as he did a hi performance motor for a Bora for someone and I thought I was interested. He talked me out of that, thank god. That's the guy you want to speak with, Stephen is completely non technical. But AFAIK they only did the front and what I "heard" was that they drilled it first and then just pushed it in. I don't know if they then put some tack welds on the shock to that it didn't move.

    I don't know who has any contact with him in the Maserati community though, he burnt a lot of bridges. You might be able to find him by doing some googling about Duke Ellington and Stephen as he was his uncle or something and was somehow involved in his archives.

    here you go: http://jjs.libraries.rutgers.edu/index.php/jjs/article/download/77/64
     
  9. thecarnut

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    #9 thecarnut, Mar 5, 2015
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    You are correct, the rubber boot was glued on the shock. I was able to use solvent and removed it without damage; so it can reused. Under the rubber boot I found the answer to my question. The shock is pressurized and there is a big DANGER sign !! Not wanting to be a winner of a Darwin award; there is no way I am going to drill a hole into this sucker.

    I need to pull the front bumper and see if the shocks are the same. I will then have a fabricator make new brackets whose length can be adjusted with a set screw.

    Ivan
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  10. thecarnut

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    #10 thecarnut, Mar 6, 2015
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    I removed the front bumper and shocks and in the process had to remove the two small panels located on the front sides of the trunk compartment.

    At first I did not pay too much attention to the hand writing but as I looked closer I noticed it is written "1048". My Bora is #1044 .... #1048 is Bob's car. Did they misplace the panels for my car and raided Bob's parts bin in order to complete mine in time ?? Or perhaps someone picked the wrong panels thinking he was working on 1048, or had too much vino for lunch. You have to love hand built cars ...

    Bob you can't have them back :)

    Ivan
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  11. gcmerak

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    #11 gcmerak, Mar 6, 2015
    Could you post a photo of the trunk interior showing how it looks minus the posted panels?

    Ciao,
    George
     
  12. thecarnut

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    #12 thecarnut, Mar 6, 2015
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    You first need to remove the large panel that covers the radiator. The two side panels give you access to the Bora's air horns and AC drier. Also gives you access to the back of the bumper shock absorbers. I think the late US Meraks are the same except for the location of the AC drier. These panels are very easy to remove.

    Ivan
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  13. gcmerak

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    #13 gcmerak, Mar 6, 2015
    Thanks Ivan,

    The Merak does not have those side panels. Funny, I would have thought them to be just about the same. Have to take out the headlight pods to get to where I want.

    Ciao,
    George
     
  14. thecarnut

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    #14 thecarnut, Mar 6, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    George,

    I did a little research looking at some of my Merak photos and what I have found is Meraks with the Citroen system have the side panels and those without the Citroen system do not. Perhaps the panels were used to install and service the headlight hydraulic pistons.

    These are photos of a 1975 US Merak with Citroen brakes. You can see the trunk side panel. Seems odd they would have removed the panels but perhaps the mounting of the electric headlight lift motors made it impossible to keep the openings. Maybe other Merak owners can shed some light.

    Ivan
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  15. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #15 staatsof, Mar 7, 2015
    Oh we better swap them at once or neither of us will ever pass muster at a concours again! :D LOL

    PS: There are some relays buried in those side areas. You might want to replace them while everything is out?

    I vaguely remember some stuff that didn't "match" too. I had all of my front end apart for improvements several times prior to 1991.

    Don't you just love that metal mesh screen? It sliced my fingers open the first time, nasty, nasty stuff.

    That whole assembly is kind of a PITA. I spend some time with new foam gasketing and careful assembly to eliminate water intrusion into the front trunk. The first day of ownership resulted in me driving through an enormous thunderstorm out of Oklahoma City headed to the Amarillo Grill. The car makes wickedly cool rooster tails in heavy rain and those wipers were fabulous. The intermittent adjustment allows for such wonderful variations in speed that you could actually get it timed perfectly for misty/foggy mornings and not have to constantly fiddle with the controls. Nice work Maserati! I've had no modern car that good including the automatic wipers on my Jag.

    But I digress ...

    Ivan you can keep the panels, I have your pistons ... :D
     
  16. thecarnut

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    #16 thecarnut, Mar 8, 2015
    I was curious as to the weight of those Bora rubber bumpers ...

    Front: 29 lbs
    Rear: 36 lbs

    Then you need to add 13 lbs for the four bumper shocks and a couple of pounds for the big bolts. Then there are the four metal square brackets welded on the chassis, although I could not weigh those. In total it comes to over 80 lbs.

    Ivan
     
  17. gcmerak

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    #17 gcmerak, Mar 8, 2015
    You are exactly correct, access to the hydraulic pistons. Have not yet accessed the space behind the headlight pods. It is a rust magnet from what I hear.

    80 lbs is the word on the street. :)

    Ciao,
    George
     
  18. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #18 staatsof, Mar 9, 2015
    Probably a few more pounds for the structural stuff added to the body. But they do work unlike the the SS ones if that's any consolation?

    Have more recessed style versions of them constructed out of CF and make those adjustable mounts out of titanium ... ;)

    What I've always wondered is how heavy that rear hatch with all of that glass is?

    Comparing the stats in the Norbye book would indicate about 200lbs - (2 cylinders of the V8)! If those numbers can be believed? It's always been heavy when I've lifted it.
     
  19. thecarnut

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    #19 thecarnut, Mar 10, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Yesterday I took the bumper shocks to the fabricator and he turns out to be very well versed in their internal workings. He had little concerns about drilling holes and knew exactly where to do them.

    For future reference this is what was done:

    1. Once the bumper shocks are out of the car tap out the caps on the ends of each pipe.
    2. Drill a small hole onto each chamber. Note that each shock has two chambers so you will need to drill one hole on each side of the shock. The shock is filled with pressurized gas and oil. I was not present for teh drilling but needless to say you want to make sure the shock is well clamped and you are wearing goggles, etc
    3. Drill a hole of the side of the outer tube and weld a nut. This is used to lock the desired length of the bracket.

    Note the difference in length between the extended and collapsed shock.

    I only have one day to get the Lancia Aurelia ready for Amelia Island therefore the Bora bumper assembly will have to wait until next week. I will post photos of the before and after ... hopefully this work was worth it.

    Ivan
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  20. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #20 staatsof, Mar 10, 2015
    Well there goes the originality Ivan. Now it's worth $75K less! :D

    I really did like your adjustability idea though. In fact I think instead a screw adjustment it should be tied into the LHM system so that you can adjust the extension as you see fit!

    That way you could also give cars a nudge in traffic!

    I was originally going to go to Amelia this year for the first time but we've decided to visit friends in Del Mar instead and take a trip up to Doug's museum as well.

    I hope to bring back lots of photos.

    Is that a locking set screw?
     
  21. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie
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    #21 thecarnut, Mar 10, 2015
    Amelia is a great event, sorry you will miss it.

    The fabricator wants me to determine the length, lock the set screw and then bring him the shocks so he can weld them. He is concerned that with vibrations the screw will come loose. The fabricator does work for racing teams so he is used to making sure that everything is nice and secure.

    I am not real crazy with the welding idea as I prefer to keep the ability to adjust the bracket. I think a second nut on the screw, that will lock itself with the welded nut, would prevent the screw from ever coming loose. I could also use some Locktite if needed.

    Ivan
     
  22. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #22 staatsof, Mar 11, 2015
    It would be great if you could document here the center to center hole dimension once you have it all adjusted properly.

    Did your fabricator mention how bad the spray coming out of the shock was after 37 years?
     
  23. thecarnut

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    #23 thecarnut, Mar 11, 2015
    No ... but he still has all 10 fingers :)

    Ivan
     
  24. staatsof

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    #24 staatsof, Mar 11, 2015
    20 would be optimum ... ;)
     
  25. thecarnut

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    #25 thecarnut, Mar 19, 2015
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    Removing the bumpers was easy, putting them back on not so much. Anyone attempting this please make PRECISE notes on the location on each and every shim around the bumper shocks. I made the mistake of keeping the shims separated by location but did not note their precise location around the shock. The bolts that hold the bumper have to be perfectly aligned or they just will not thread into the hole. I must have put 12 hours aligning the bumpers !!

    My car is now 5 inches shorter and I am very happy with the results. Both bumpers went in about 2.5 inches each but the most dramatic visual difference is in the front bumper. Before my Bora looked like it could have been a police car and now the bumper looks a lot better integrated with the body.

    These are some before and after photos.

    Ivan
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