How do I remove a Mondial ignition switch? | FerrariChat

How do I remove a Mondial ignition switch?

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by Birdman, Sep 9, 2009.

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  1. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

    Jun 20, 2003
    6,687
    North shore, MA
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    THE Birdman
    Hey Gang,
    My Mondial has a flaky ignition switch. (Car dies unexpectedly...jiggle the switch and it starts up again).

    I read in JoeZaff's thread that I should be able to pull the lock/switch out of the column by pushing on the little button on the top of the lock while turning the key. I found the button. When I push on it and turn the key, the button depresses further, as if going into a groove that should allow the lock to come out. Only problem is, the lock isn't coming out. Any tricks I should know? I really don't want to have to pull the whole column apart for this....did it once when I broke a light stalk and it wasn't fun.

    Thanks

    Birdman
     
  2. FamilyCar

    FamilyCar Formula Junior
    Rossa Subscribed

    Sep 26, 2007
    662
    Seattle, Wa
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    Peter Goodall
    It may have a set screw as well. Also check that it isn't held in by the wiring connection.

    Good luck.
     
  3. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

    Jun 20, 2003
    6,687
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    THE Birdman
    I have the wiring loosened. This sucker isn't being held by the wiring!! It's solidly in there, as if there is another something I don't know about. I tried pushing the button and gently prying--that didn't budge it.
     
  4. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
    BANNED Professional Ferrari Technician

    Apr 26, 2006
    3,664
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    David Feinberg
    Perhaps I'm missing something....but in the many, many switches I've changed, I just removed the two screws on the electrical portion and pop the switch out. The mechanical part is not of concern...

    Best,
    David
     
  5. FamilyCar

    FamilyCar Formula Junior
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    Sep 26, 2007
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    Peter Goodall
    Did you check for a set screw--I think #23 on the attached image.

    Or, does wiggling the steering wheel help? if the lock is really engaged that could be it, although I suspect you're a step ahead of that.

    Hmmm.
     
  6. FamilyCar

    FamilyCar Formula Junior
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    Sep 26, 2007
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    Peter Goodall
    #6 FamilyCar, Sep 9, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  7. JoeZaff

    JoeZaff F1 Veteran
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    Aug 5, 2007
    5,459
    Philly suburbs
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    Joe
    Hey Birdman,

    I am sending you a PM with my phone number, call me if you have any questions whatsoever.

    I know it can be frustrating at first, but trust me, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE COLUMN TO DO THIS. As I recall, FIRST DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, then, on the column, by the ignition switch you will see a small phillips head screw. Remove that. Without that being removed, its not going to work. Next, put the key in the ignition (and as I recall turn the key) and using a narrow allen wrench or similar narrow tool, push in button. Once the button is completely in, grab the lock mechanism and start pulling. It will be difficult at first, in no small part because of all the wiring stuffed in the column. You may want to get a flat head screwdriver and wiggle it in the space between the ignition switch and column. You should be able to get it out maybe 1/2 inch or so, before you are going to have to start threading the ignition wire into the column.

    At first it can be really frustrating, but it is really a simple fix. Call me if you have any questions or concerns!

    Just remember my mantra...Don't break the stalk, don't break the stalk! When you are trying to pull out the ignition, it is easy to slip and take them out!
     
  8. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

    Jun 20, 2003
    6,687
    North shore, MA
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    THE Birdman
    Thanks Joe...I'm clearly missing the phillips screw that FamilyCar Guy is mentioning too. I'll give it another look tomorrow.

    Are replacement ignition switches available? (My lock/key is fine...the electrical switch at teh back of the lock is flaky.)

    Birdman
     
  9. JoeZaff

    JoeZaff F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Aug 5, 2007
    5,459
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    Yes and no. There are no more Mondial replacement switches to be had. Ferrari has superseded it with the ignition switch from the 355. In my case, the tumbler was shot so I just swapped out tumblers and kept the original switch. As I recall, however, the switches were pretty much identical too. I don't recall what I did with the replacement switch I got. I'll look around tomorrow, if I still have it, its yours. In the meantime, you may want to do a search. I recall someone saying in my old threads that the electrical switch is identical to that used in some BMW (?) from the same period and being a very cheap part.
     
  10. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

    Jun 20, 2003
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    Hey Guys, you were right....I was missing the phillips head screw carefully hidden on the back of the lock. Unscrewed that, turned the key, pushed the release button and the lock slid right out, with a little assistance feeding the wire in from underneath the column. I squirted some contact cleaner on the switch, worked it in, and put everything back together. Problem seems gone. I won't be able to be 100% certain until this rain deluge stops and I can drive the car. Thanks for your help. Fchatters to the rescue again!

    Birdman
     
  11. jacques

    jacques Formula Junior

    May 23, 2006
    877
    Los Angeles/Florida
    The little black plastic ignition module that is held by two machine screws is as follows: It is made by SWF in Germany.and is indeed a BMW part #61-31-2-682-120..found at BMW parts houses and some BMW dealers..$100USD. These are becoming more and more rare so buy two, as you will need it again..not if but when..Personally, I by-passed my ignition switch and put in an attractive modern standard switch in an available spot on the console that can be easily removed at a later date. Works a treat and no more pesky failures with the stock key. I just have to remember to unlock the steering column so that I don't drive in a right-circle..Hope that this is of some use...Also at the Parts/bin.com.Their #M5030-19501...$117USD.listed as"BMW 1970-2002 Ignition Lock Assembly ..Hope that this is of some help. Jacques.
     
  12. judrick

    judrick Karting

    Jun 7, 2007
    64
    Knoxville,TN
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    Rick Haynes
    I replaced the electrical part of the ignition switch on my 89 328 today. I purchased the switch from BMW the part number is 61-31-2-682-120 just as indicated on this forum. The cost was $104.27 including tax.

    All the wires are color coded.

    1. I made myself a little diagram of what color goes where on the switch before I started.
    2. Removed the driver side seat.
    3. Removed the cover under the steering column. (decorative piece, part of the trim)
    4. Pulled all 7 wires from the switch.
    5. Removed the two flat head machine screws that hold the switch on. The top one was a PITA.
    6. The switch came out very easy, fell out actually.
    7. Positioned the new switch in the socket (for lack of a better word). The top screw was a major PITA to finally get tightened down, there is simply no room to manuever but persistence will pay off.
    8. Reattached all the wires, good to go!
     
  13. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

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    Good work Rick!

    I can confirm that two squirts of electrical contact cleaner in the right place makes a huge difference. Car is back to 100% reliable again!
     
  14. buzzm2005

    buzzm2005 Formula 3

    Aug 23, 2005
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    #14 buzzm2005, Sep 18, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    tomberlin likes this.
  15. judrick

    judrick Karting

    Jun 7, 2007
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    Rick Haynes
    There was a point I would have been tempted to use a chainsaw. I forgot to mention the reason I changed the switch in the first place. While in the garage occasionally I would hear a grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrh sound coming from my car that came on with the key out of the ignition, I wasn't sure what was going on. It happened to a Ferrari tech during a 30K service while in the shop. He told me I had a bad ignition switch. So, if electrical parts decide to come on without you in the car such as fuel pump, ABS pump etc. you may have a bad ignition switch.
     
  16. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Mar 31, 2006
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    #16 Wade, May 6, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  17. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    #17 Wade, May 6, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    From the looks of things, this repair has been attempted in the past (before my time). My guess is that someone used a pair of pliers to pull the wire bundle and damaged something inside, hence my intermittent starting problem.

    Nevertheless, I still need to get the ignition switch out first.
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  18. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

    Jun 20, 2003
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    Wade, feeding the wire in from the back is "key" to this situation. It's a thick bundle of wire and it goes around a corner inside the column. You have to really push it in to get the lock out. DO NOT pull on the lock without feeding the wire or you will break something. But don't try to pull the lock out more than is necessary...just enough to get electrical cleaner into the contacts. Squirt it in and work that switch back and forth with the key to clean the contacts. At this point if you have the lock out that far you are good. (I'm working from memory).

    I don't think the pliers in the past will be your issue. Doesn't look like it broke through the sheath on the harness, so it would not have harmed the wire inside.

    These switches get oxidized contacts and flaky. They are pushing 30 years old. Electrical contact cleaner brings them right back. Just be patient and work it gently.

    And wait until you try to get it back in! You are only halfway there!! ;) But if I did it, anyone can.

    Birdman
     
  19. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    #19 Wade, May 7, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Okay, thanks Birdman.

    I stepped back and removed the seat (should have done that first, or second). After that I was able to easily work the green wire bundle through from underneath.

    The main connector was already disconnected so there wasn't any strain at all. However, there is quite a bit of oxidation on the blade contacts.

    The third picture shows a close-up of the white wire's pin switch

    For reference, the flat, round white part of the switch has several detents and should only be rotated counter-clockwise.

    Now I'll clean everything up and ohm out the wires.
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  20. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    #20 Wade, May 7, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The following posts/pictures are intended for anyone else who may have to remove and reassemble the ignition switch.

    If your switch came apart like mine it is important to make sure that they mate up properly.

    Notice the "small" key and keyway align with the post/post-hole respectively.

    By the way, this is for key position I
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  21. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    #21 Wade, May 7, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Next, the easiest way re-install the switch is as a complete assembly. Since mine came apart, I found the steering lock and spring inside the switch barrel.

    The final picture is what the entire assembly should look like.

    Don't forget to the have the key switched to position II so that the locking pin (on the side) can be depressed.
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  22. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

    Jun 20, 2003
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    Wade, good work!

    Awesome pictures too, they will save someone a lot of hassle in the future!!

    Jonathan
     
  23. Lino

    Lino Formula Junior

    Jul 7, 2010
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    Yes very good explanation and pictures.

    Lino
     
  24. radenton

    radenton Rookie

    Nov 6, 2007
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    Royce Denton
    The BMW part number is wrong. Not even close. Does anyone have a source to the real part? EuroSpares has none.
     
  25. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    #25 Wade, May 22, 2017
    Last edited: May 22, 2017
    FYI, this thread probably originated back when the Mondials were in the same forum as the 308 and 328. Hence the broad discrepancy.

    Also, the BMW part they were referring to, "electrical part of the ignition switch", is similar to theirs (328).

    BTW, which part are you looking for, exactly?
     

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