got the car back, but...

What kind of spark plugs do you have now and which did you had? Did they calibrate the carburetors?

I don't understand that all of a sudden you seem to leak coolant somewhere.. How much did you put in?

 

Jurgen

That badboy needs approx 20 litres of coolant. It has to be bled thoroughly ( use Birdman's tutorial). If the system just has been topped up, you'll run her hot.

I assume you bought all the parts with SF, so plugs should be ok. It's a K-jetronic ( no carbs MvT ), not sure what could be the problem.

Lights and heater are electrical gremlins.

Damn, this makes ownership a struggle. What's next: back to the garage? Bleeding coolant is a thing you can handle yourself. If engine is running: does she smell rich? Ask for a exhaust gas test & tune.

Edit: pm sent.

 

An engine running rich can be caused by many factors including the need to change plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs. Since it was running properly when you brought here it must be a faulty item that has been put on.

If you still have the old stuff.. Change each set to see if it improves. Don't let them adjust the K-jetronic just like that. Didn't knew the 8 had an injection already! Nifty stuff at the time
Hope you find it soon Jurgen!

 

+1, Sounds like you need to take it to a new shop! Did these guys even test drive the car after all that work? Anyways, the issues you listed are non-related except if you had a bad fuse box. For the coolant, make sure you don't over fill it to the top in the expansion tank, or the pressure will cause a leak in your hose. Also, notice when the lights are on, the temp gauge moves slightly to the right and looks hotter but that's some kind of electrical interference. How hot is your car running after an hour in traffic, you may need a new fan or radiator? Just some ideas and lessons learned to share.

Best

 

Jurgen

Ask for a exhaust gas test (in dutch: 4-gasmeting). That way they can adjust the mixture and see immediate respons on the testmachine. You've got an US car, so with cats? Perhaps a lambdasensor isn't giving the correct info? K-jetronics are easy adjustable (according to google search results )
You can burn the cats if you run with a mixture that's too rich. But hey, then a propre Euro chimney-system can be mounted.

 

Jurgen sorry to hear.
Hot is not good. Don't drive!
Does your rad get hot? (meaning: does the water actually go through it or does it circulate in the engine only)
Having the fans always on removes a clue, as you won't know whether the rad gets hot and the fans kick at the right temp.
If your heater is not working (no hot air) it could be in indication that no water is flowing through the radiator.
If you water pump is not working properly, or your thermostat is stuck closed or halfway, your car will get hot.
DO NOT REMOVE the thermostat, as it will prevent the water from going into the rad. And of course, bleeding correctly is a must.
Car not running smoothy and consuming a lot of fuel > ridiculously rich?
Just check that: Use the sonde in the right hand exhaust only. Follow the procedure in the book to adjust the CO/CO2/HC levels. If you cannot get to the values, it's time to investigate why. Let us know the levels you have.
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didn't know that!! Good tip!!!

Quote enzo360: Thanks for that, gonna pass that info on tomorrow. Could that also be the cause of headaches? (serious question)
YES!!! Those fumes can make you very noxious. These are the things you don't wanna breath: co, co², ...

 

Jurgen
Do you have a pic of the thermostat that was put it? Superformance?
Does the heater fan work or not, regardless of temp, or is the fan dead?
Rich engines run cooler than normal, lean engines hotter.
Rich engines use more fuel than normal, lean engines less.
Rich engines really smell rich, lean engines don't.
Rich (really rich) engines rund badly, lean ones too ;-)

 

Is replacing the thermostat included in the Major? I thought it was not. If it isn't that still does not explain why Jurgen all of a sudden needs to add a lot of coolant into the system while before it was ok.

One should not need to adjust the K-Jetronic if they only replaced the spark plugs, cables. Unless they did more then they mentioned... This is just old skool troubleshooting Ran fine before bringing and now it is rich. Take the lot off and put back the old just to see what influences the behavior. I'm excluding the cam belts here as I have never seen that skipping one tooth has so much influence, unless it/they skipped more.

Or... your WUR (Warm up regulator) stays open? Does run good when cold? I had that one time. but then you barely can make it home.. and black smoke will crash your fantasy
Anyway nothing to worry since it is the garage/shop's their cup of tea

 

If the car ran flawless when you brought it in for service, take her back and have them address it ASAP.

 

Doing my belt service I also did the waterpump. BUT, if that wasn't the case, I would also disconnect the hose between thermostat and radiator. But that only makes half a bucket of water....
Did they reconnect the WUR? If the wur isn't connected, the warmup procedure doesn't work and car thinks if it's still cold, so will inject more fuel than necessary.
Also, when the thermo-time switch doesn't get the chance to warm up (no coolant - you had to top up) the cold start valve gives extra fuel also...

Take a look at the K-jetronic video Bell posted and keep your manual by hand.

If the car ran ok before, and they only did a beltjob: let them check the above. skipping a tooth will make the car run like crap (if it still will run).

If coolant gets eaten by the car (ooooooo dear) let them do a leakcheck: there is a method they can exhaustgases in the coolant. If so: failing cylinder head gasket. But that has nothing to do with the rich running of the engine.

I hope it's just a loose connection or so.....

 

If the fan is not working it is an electrical problem. When you choose outside air you should get some airflow though the system.
If only the fan is inop, you should still get hot or cold air. If nothing works, then there are probably other issues on top of electrical ones.
I would make your car run cool and lean first though.

 

I would wire them up via the thermoswitch as original. It gives you a good clue to whether the radiators get the hot water. If you engine is hot but your rad fans are off it would mean that the pump is not working and/or the thermostat is not letting the water into the rad.

 

I had a (non-OEM spec) rubber seal on a Superformance thermostat come off and blocking the water passage to the radiator, leading to rapidly rising temperature and a disassembly of the freshly mounted water pump and thermostat housing...
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An engine in the process of overheating can boil off water very fast via the header tank, before a head gasket failure. Jurgen might be OK if he doesn't keep running it. I hope the engine never ran "dry" = there was always some water left in the header tank, even boiling?

 

ajks.! That does not look good if it happens... then the below makes indeed sense. What I am wondering about, you would smell this unless the fuel smell oversmells of course, but you see some leakage from your header tank at least.

 

I saw the temp go up real fast, which had never ever happened since I have the car. I pulled over and switched the engine off. Checked the rad fans, which were sitting still - checked the the fuses, exchanged the relays - nothing, because the the rad was basically cold > So:
Checked the water pump belt, which looks nice and tight... Then I saw a huge puddle of water and more flowing out behind the right rear wheel. When I checked the header tank it was almost empty. I topped up the tank so that when the system cools down it can pull in liquid and not air, and let it cool off naturally. I didn't want to thermo shock it with cold water and cause distortion by running the hot engine with cold liquid. May be over-cautious but...

The temp never went above the upper limit (second last bar) on the instrument, and no damage was done to the gaskets; I've done over 6K mlx since removing that piece of rubber, with steady temp in the middle and no water added. Mondials just don't get hot if the cooling system is healthy, even in tropical conditions. And my rad is original... and looks like that too

 

Yes, 3 miles from the shop, after pick-up. Good luck.