Some help on behind the dash | FerrariChat

Some help on behind the dash

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by porphy, Sep 15, 2014.

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  1. porphy

    porphy Formula 3
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    Randall Gatz
    #1 porphy, Sep 15, 2014
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2014
    I have removed the dash on my 1990 Mondial T in order to get at my A/C unit to replace the fan motor. However, looking at the wiring I noticed that a relay? was not connected and another relay? was hanging down and looked very much to have been a repair. The unconnected relay? has only "ITA IAMEC 370 and then 12V 88W (X2) DOT" marked on it. The three terminals are marked 49+, 49a, and 31-. Anybody know what this is and its assumed replacement, a "Hella TB 64 DOT"?

    The associated relays were marked "acoustic" and are, I assume controllers for the various acoustic signals used. See photos.
     
  2. porphy

    porphy Formula 3
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  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    The "added" relay is the flasher for the turn signals (and the "unplugged" relay is the stock flasher).
     
  4. porphy

    porphy Formula 3
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    Thanks much Steve. Mundane but nice to know.
     
  5. jgoodman

    jgoodman F1 Rookie
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    Aug 29, 2009
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    Hi Porphy,
    Can you describe the job of removing the dash please? How long did it take? Easily, moderate or pita?
     
  6. porphy

    porphy Formula 3
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    #6 porphy, Sep 17, 2014
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2014
    Hey Jay, It is not difficult therefore that's why I am trying it. It is time consuming and you need to label everything. I have some pics and will post something. Not as good as Ernie but it will get the job done. It is a pita but it's relatively simple. I am going slow and double checking everything on my way. I have the dashboard out and the center console. It does look like it has not been fiddled with the exception of the flasher replacement above. I estimate that I have about 30 hours in it now and I do not have the heat/cool exchanger unit out yet. I had serious difficulty with things that I should not have had problems: the steering wheel would not budge, and the knee bumpers (only on the "T" as I understand) had mounting bolts that were almost impossible to reach. This was solved by leaving them on and removing the dash with them on (my bad). They are very heavy and makes the dash more difficult to manipulate but it's doable. The steering wheel was finally solved by talking to Verell. After stripping the threads on the steering wheel mount I used a gear puller unfortunately on the horn commutator ring mount (it dented the commutator ring in one place but its probably repairable; also NLA) and then placing a brass drift (punch) on the edge of the steering column while under pressure with the gear puller and giving it a hard hit with the antimony hammer so nicely supplied by American Hammer at the Mondipalooza! It exploded so to speak. So after I spent too much time on these two items the rest is just detail work which is even pleasant at times. So the saga continues. I will post something when I am more advanced. I expect more challenges when I get the heat/A/C exchange box out as I understand from Daniel that it was not made to be opened. We will see. Intrigue.
     
  7. porphy

    porphy Formula 3
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    #7 porphy, Sep 17, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  8. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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  9. soucorp

    soucorp F1 Rookie

    Sep 20, 2011
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    Good find Steve. Randy, I did not realize that a 90 T had mice belts, I thought it was 91-93. The 89T has the regular manual belts like my 88.

    btw, new Motorized Seat Belt ECU # 61568900 if you need it from Algar:
    Ferrari Motorized Seat Belt ECU # 61568900 On Clearance Now !!
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    Ferrari USA Motorized Seat Belt ECU 61568900 Algar Ferrari on CLEARANCE | eBay
     
  10. DavidJ

    DavidJ Formula Junior

    Feb 12, 2012
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    Mine were acting up. I removed the CPUs with the belts in position to drive the car.
    Those CPUs have 3, IIRC, mini relays, the contacts get dirty and the belts start acting funny. I got tired of cleaning those contacts.

    Porphy: I'm waiting for you to finish up this project so I can replace my blower and not pioneer the dash removal ;)

    DavidJ
     
  11. porphy

    porphy Formula 3
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    #11 porphy, Sep 17, 2014
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2014
    Thanks Mike,

    The observation that might make sense is that my "T" is an October build date and they apparently had already started to install them. Both of mine work fine I just should have remembered what they were. Daniel has them listed for $1127.87 each.

    I also need to repair my statement above now that these ECU's have clearly been dismounted from their original mounting. I will take a closer look and see if I can return them to the original mounting. I speculate this was done to facilitate the radio installation.

    Relax David. We can arrange an on-site consult; no problem! I am afraid the hard part is yet to come with the removal and opening of the heat exchange box! Did you just spray the contacts with contact cleaner to clean them?
     
  12. DavidJ

    DavidJ Formula Junior

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    P:
    Yes I used Deoxit-5 but also used a very small burnishing tool to clean and polish the relay contacts. Then used 99% isopropyl alcohol spray and compressed air to clean everything up.
    The real issue with these things is the circuit overload protection. If the belts get jammed or stopped for just a moment during their travel before getting to the stops, the power draw goes up and the relay opens to protect the ECU. You need to shut off the car to reset it.

    PITA, I gave up and unplugged them. Bad design.

    DavidJ
     
  13. porphy

    porphy Formula 3
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    Davis: My relay contacts were sparkling clean and the insides looked new. I put a tiny bit of Deoxit 5 on the contacts and reassembled.
     
  14. DavidJ

    DavidJ Formula Junior

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    Spray the plugs and sockets when you put the ECUs back in the car. Hopefully you will never need to look at them again.
    While you are in there; did you see an easy (relatively) way to get the clock out? I want to change mine. I tried, but the two small nuts holding the clock were next to impossible to get to (with the dash in place of course).
    They must have people with very small hands assembling the car interiors.

    DavidJ
     
  15. porphy

    porphy Formula 3
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    #15 porphy, Sep 22, 2014
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2014
    You should remove the whole panel that includes the clock. There is a black plug which feeds all the switches and the clock in the console panel above and behind the radio. You need to possibly remove the radio? to disconnect the plug. There is a bulb which is the light source for the fiber optic lighting which needs to be disconnected along with the glass fiber optic cable which attaches to the top corners of the panel. Unhook those and remove the four 6mm? nuts around the periphery of the panel and it can be pulled out the front. All of this is a lot easier if you remove the radio. I did not remove the radio but I removed the center console which allowed even easier access. I hope this helps, David. It ain't easy. You can have your clock rebuilt from the specialist shop in California. Do a search here.

    How are your seat belt ECU's installed? I think I must be missing something in my car. Do you have a rail or something to mount them on?
     
  16. DavidJ

    DavidJ Formula Junior

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    I bought a used working clock from FerrParts 2 years ago but gave up swapping it with the original because it was just a pain getting to the nuts behind the panel. I will wait until I do the big job of replacing the blower, if I do it at all.
    Re: the belt ECUs, They were mounted to each other (stacked flat) on studs, behind the console access panel, below the dash on the passenger side. I really don't want to go back there again, my back hurts thinking about it. I just can't make myself into a pretzel like I used to. Of course, I did not take the seats out like you probably did to remove the dash. I'm sure that makes it much easer.

    DavidJ
     
  17. MvT

    MvT F1 Rookie

    May 25, 2013
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    From what I can remember visiting a fellow Mondial T friend you can remove the fabric side panels where you have easier access to the back of this panel. The reason for him was the radio wires. I have seen it so they can be taken off. Not sure if it is clicked on or screwed. I think the first...
     
  18. DavidJ

    DavidJ Formula Junior

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    Thanks MvT.
    Yup, 3 screws to remove the side panels. Been there, done that. Still a PITA to get your hands behind the console to get the tiny nuts off the back of the clock or the entire panel that holds the switches and clock.
    I had to open that up the passenger side, fabric covered metal side panel, to get the seat belt ECUs out.

    DavidJ
     
  19. MvT

    MvT F1 Rookie

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    These little nuts are really a pain sometimes to get at, yes

    Not to hyjack Randall's post, but also not with a Flexible-Hex-Nut-Driver? I have a Hazet one where I can change sockets on so that I also can extend it as well. Ps I think this one is outrages expensive on your side of the pond. I pay at least half for such a tool. Anyway.. to get the idea.

    You have them also in 5, 6, 8, 9, 10 but I would get one where you can change the socket.
    Hazet 426 7 Flexible HEX NUT Driver 7 MM | eBay
     
  20. porphy

    porphy Formula 3
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    Nice find Tijn. Bought one. Been looking for cheap one for minimal use with 1/4 inch drive. Thanks much.
     

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