3.2 Brake Lights inop?

Did you check the fuse? Could it be a faulty brake light switch (that that it's near the brake pedal)?

Regards,
Alessandro

 

Hey Tom,

Sorry to hear the news. I hope that you're able to get the issue quickly and easily sorted. Hopefully it wasn't due to my driving. I tried to stay on the gas WAY more than the brakes - honest.

2cam

 

Hi Tom,

Which brake light is illuminated on the dash? Your car doesn't have abs so that's not causing it like mine did. Check the state of the brake switch, brake pads in calipers, and fuse for looseness or corrosion/burn marks.

best
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Ah, I don't have one of those... Maybe someone with the 'Johnson Command & Control Lighting System' can jump in.
I wouldn't put too much stock in that console light.

Best
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Tom, definitely check the brake pedal switch as Mike recommended. With the car running, press firmly on the pedal all the way a couple of times. Or try actuating it by hand. This may reset or unstick the switch.

Happened to me a couple of times on my 87 (non abs). I think the switch on mine was stuck because my between the seats console warning light went out immediately after stepping on the pedal a few times. It seems ok now.

As an aside, I also have a seemingly false slow down light that comes on periodically. I have a brand new hyper flow cat and the light sometimes comes on from a cold start. It does go out so its not on long. Two mechanics told me I shouldn't worry. Temps ok, no overheating ever. Likely a bad thermocouple and or Ecu. I'll have to narrow the culprit down one of these days.

 

I was getting a flickering, then the Slow down light stayed on 2 years ago. I pin pointed it to my thermocouple wire that goes into the catalytic converter. To check this, do the following:

1) Jack up the rear
2) Unscrew and remove the net grill protecting the cat/muffler
3) Identify the thermocouple wire unit on the cat, I do not think the problem is related to the O2 sensor
4) Examine the thermocouple unit, unscrew it and clean it (looks like a probe sensor thermometer)
5) Trace that wire upwards into the engine bay, it connects to the ecu, looking for snags along the way
6) On mine, the sharp metal edge of the cat itself was rubbing & eating into the thermocouple wire insulation, therefore causing a false flicker when the cat got hot and sometimes it just stayed on.
7) I got some thermo tape and wrapped the compromised area of the wire (go 4 rounds with the tape)
8) No Slow down light since I fixed it.

It does sound like you have a similar issue, so try these steps first and see if it helps you.
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I've had that center console brake light come on before. Ended up being a faulty brake switch (located under the front bonnet). It's a white plastic part. I believe the Testarossa part is less than half the price. But it may be missing 2 of the leads for the center console circuit, in which case you'll get the center console light to come on even though alls well.

Hope this helps,

Lou
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I ended up with the Testarossa switch thinking they were the same at the time. Obviously they are not....as I had 2 left over wires!

Anyways, the brake lights work fine like this. But the brake light on the console remained on. So I shorted the 2 wires with a fuse. Yeah, I used what was available! So now the light on the console is off.....until I step on the brakes. Then it's on. I figure better to have the light on sometime, rather that all the time. I rarely drive at night, so I have never changed it. It's been like this for years. Anyways, with this setup you should no console brake light until you press the brakes, then you get the light.

Hope this helps and isn't confusing. I think I might be confused now.

All the best,

Lou
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The exact same problem just developed on my recently-acquired 3.2! Bad luck, except I feel fortunate that this thread popped up! Diagnosing...

 

Check me on this: since the brake light warning light comes on whenever (and only when) I press the brake pedal, it seems to me that means whatever switch is at the pedal is working just fine. The brakes are stopping the car very well, and I see no issue there. So I'm deducing that it's probably that switch on the fire wall or something between there and the brake lights.

Yes?

To short the system and check the light function, do I depress the brake pedal and connect the two larger leads coming off that switch?

 

Never mind. Got it. Bad switch. Ordering a new one.

 

Bad switch. The larger terminals on the sides are the actual brake lights, the smaller are for the "johnson control center". There is an Alfa Romero switch--exact match--but only $40, not $200. Was not sure of which years, probably safe to say '85 or '86. Found on Ebay,

Alfa Romeo brake light switch spider eraly gtv6? rare nos 60515008 4-prong , quick google with the numbers gave me:

Original Equipment (OE) Numbers

ALFA ROMEO 113306517700
ALFA ROMEO 60515008
FERRARI 119439
FIAT 5954516
FIAT 5964877
FIAT 82416970
INNOCENTI 323850107
MASERATI 323850107
SEAT se023952510a

Look around. Good luck.

 

Reverse the 2 wires? I'd try that first.