86 Mondial no $park | FerrariChat

86 Mondial no $park

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by nudo, Apr 20, 2015.

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  1. nudo

    nudo Rookie

    Mar 2, 2013
    44
    My Mondial woke up from it's long winter nap with a dud. I took off the distributor to change the seal last November so I never ran the engine all winter. Well last week I went to start it and it just cranked. I had this issue a year ago with the crank sensor/RPM I changed one so I thought it must be the other one. I don't think the distributor is related, no spark any where front, rear, coils. I put a new one and still no spark. Both sensors show resistance. May fear is the next thing is the Microplex ECU $$$$. Oh also cleaned the grounds. Any help, at this point I'll try anything.

    Nudo
     
  2. dfranzen

    dfranzen Formula 3
    Owner

    Aug 31, 2013
    1,577
    Ponte Vedra Beach , FL
    Full Name:
    Don Franzen
    fyi I had a engine kill problem that went away when I cleaned the following:

    pay special attention to the large black "box" component that goes into the fuse box (the thing thats about 2 inch by 1inch and sticks out higher than the relays) ...take it out and clean its contacts also...

    it may sound silly but go through each of your fuses in the fuse box and remove clean and put back in...i use electrical contact cleaner and take them in and out several times per fuse


    if that doesnt work make sure that your large white connector that is located left rear fender well is cleaned and connected

    good luck and please advise
     
  3. nudo

    nudo Rookie

    Mar 2, 2013
    44
    OK thanks I'll try that and report back
     
  4. theunissenguido

    theunissenguido F1 Rookie
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jan 21, 2004
    2,595
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    Guido
    Thats the sipea relay for wipers..has nothing to do with start problems.
    Look first the wire connections at the ignition coils...maybe you touched those when working on the distributors.

    Guido
     
  5. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 1, 2005
    4,113
    Canada
    The large white multi wire connector in the vertical position on the lower right of the fuse panel may have an overheated key pin in there. Remove and inspect, clean and put back on and try again. Might be some browning of the connector that is further visual evidence.
     
  6. nudo

    nudo Rookie

    Mar 2, 2013
    44
    Well, I went over to Auto Elite in Tenafly NJ and saw Vinny, He said the contacts on the Mulitplex looked dirty so I should clean it and replace. Also clean the ground contacts. Did both and still no spark. There doesn't seem to a way of testing the Multplex ECU other then putting into another car and seeing if it works. Do you think if I went to a Ferrari Dealer they would check it for me? If it's bad it's bad I just want to make sure that I don't spend a crazy amount on a part that doesn't need to be replaced.

    BTW Vinny is a great guy who is very generous with his time and has helped me out going back to the time he had his shop in Fort Lee
     
  7. dfranzen

    dfranzen Formula 3
    Owner

    Aug 31, 2013
    1,577
    Ponte Vedra Beach , FL
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    Don Franzen
    yes that is what the component does HOWEVER there seems to be alot of connections in the fusebox that if you wiggle the contacts of that component strange things occur...just saying it worked for me when my wrench told me to do that
     
  8. dfranzen

    dfranzen Formula 3
    Owner

    Aug 31, 2013
    1,577
    Ponte Vedra Beach , FL
    Full Name:
    Don Franzen
    second that too
     
  9. soucorp

    soucorp F1 Rookie

    Sep 20, 2011
    4,816
    Old Dominion
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    Mike
    #9 soucorp, Apr 22, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Have you replaced the (Magneti Marelli Ignition Coil Power Module), these ignition modules sit on top of the coils in the 3.2 engine setup and carries spark out to the plugs. They tend to go bad but should be a cheap fix at $150 a piece.

    See my thread, may help:
    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/mondial/364375-rough-idle-loss-power-backfire-5.html
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  10. nudo

    nudo Rookie

    Mar 2, 2013
    44
    No I didn't but, I don't think that both modules would go bad at the same time. My next step is to see if I can detect power getting to the ECU. If anyone knows how to do that please let me know.

    Thanks,

    Nudo
     
  11. nudo

    nudo Rookie

    Mar 2, 2013
    44
    Has anyone replaced a Multiplex ECU?. I know it can be anything that can make it go bad. Heat, moisture, vibration Etc. but I opened it up and its clean, no loose connections,corrosion, brown spots. I hope your right, everyone says its a bad connection somewhere in the system.
     
  12. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,629
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    It actually "MicroPlex" ECU -- if you search on that name, you should get some prior threads describing how to make a functional AC voltage measurement of the signals from the two flywheel sensors during starter motor cranking (and both those signals must be present/good for the system to work).
     
  13. nudo

    nudo Rookie

    Mar 2, 2013
    44
    Yeah, sorry about that. A "Multiplex" is a place where you go to see a movie and a "Microplex"when you go to the poor house
     
  14. David Lind

    David Lind Formula 3

    Nov 19, 2008
    2,248
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    David Lind
    nudo, that's pretty funny ...
     
  15. milko1969

    milko1969 Formula 3

    Feb 21, 2012
    1,436
    Breda, Holland
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    Milko
    Have you tried to switch the starter relais with the relais who pump de headlights up?
    The have normally the same specifications and bosch vin number. in my car the problem was directly solved, after i switched those two and I now know that this particular switch was sticking, it was also feeling much warmer after running the starter motor.
    Try to switch them out en see what happens, if the car starts en the lights won't go up than you how to solve the problem maybe.
     
  16. dfranzen

    dfranzen Formula 3
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    Aug 31, 2013
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    Ponte Vedra Beach , FL
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    Don Franzen

    +1
     
  17. nudo

    nudo Rookie

    Mar 2, 2013
    44
    Well, In think I tried everything... I found a used Microplex unit although not 100% guaranteed it can from a reliable source that said it worked, still NO SPARK. At The plug the two new sensors check 600 ohms, I have power and the ground are good. I cleaned all of the connectors and grounds still no spark at all. Is there something I'm missing?

    Nudo
     
  18. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,629
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    That is really not a definitive functional test. If you measure the AC voltage between the two wires of each sensor (while still connected) during starter motor cranking, and get reasonable values (something like ~2V AC for the flywheel sensor and 0.2V AC for the TDC sensor IIRC), then you can pull your hair out and scream if still no spark ;). If you confirm those AC signals are present during starter motor cranking, but no spark, give a shout and I'll take a peek at your schematic to see what measurements at the ECU connector and/or power module connectors might be worth making to check further.
     
  19. theunissenguido

    theunissenguido F1 Rookie
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    Jan 21, 2004
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    #19 theunissenguido, May 5, 2015
    Last edited: May 5, 2015
    There is 1 wire (yellow) going from contact switch to 1 ignition coil (nr 15 on coil), connected to the other ignition coil (also nr 15 on coil).
    Check if you have power with contact on.
    The other wire on coil (yellow/black on nr 1) goes to module A 131 on nr 11.
    The other wire on the other coil (green on nr 1) goes to the other module B 130 on 11.
    That same connection (yellow) you have from contact switch to 1 module (nr 8) and connected to the other module (nr 8). Also power when contact on.
    When NO power on both, there is a problem in your switch. You can connect a wire direct +battery to nr 15 of coils to see you get power to distributor.
    Normaly with contact on there is power on both wires between ignition coil and distributor.
    When NO power there is a problem in your coils.
    When power on all, there is a problem inside the distributor. Little screws inside distributor that holds the wires to coil, plugs can be corroded.
    Make sure your minus connection between modules and frame are ok.
    Guido
    PS : if you need wiring diagram send email to afterburner (in colorcodes) or to me (black/white)
     
  20. nudo

    nudo Rookie

    Mar 2, 2013
    44
    Thanks for the new info, I will try it this weekend. I bought a new sensor so I will have two new sensors they are relatively cheap and this will eliminate this as one of the issues,

    Guido, I’m not sure I understand the numbers that you are referring to ie, B131 on 11 It’s a bit to technical but if you explain it I will get it.
    Thanks to you and Steve for helping me out on this.
    Nuno
     
  21. theunissenguido

    theunissenguido F1 Rookie
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    Jan 21, 2004
    2,595
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    Guido
    Send my your mail to [email protected]. I will send you the wiring diagram that will show you numbers as fact. I can only send you the complet diagram in Pdf...

    Guido
     

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