Coolant leak.

Did they replace the clamps or hoses too? I learned my lesson a long time ago that not all name brand hose is created equal and neither are clamps. I rehosed a couple of cars with Dayco hose instead of Gates. The cars kept turning into water sprinklers because the hose kept shrinking and allowing the clamps to loosen. Happened on 3 or 4 cars before I realized why. Have never bought Dayco hose since.

 

I anticipate this sort of thing when I first looked at the cooling system schematic. Resembles a nuclear reactor. So. The very first thing I did was change the glycol/water ratio from 50/50 to 60/40. It can go to 70/30. Added a few onces of barsleak/lubrictant. Then depressurized the system. Just enough tightening to keep from slopping out the expansion tank.

Two years later and going on 11,000 miles have not added one once of coolant. And that includes many days 90F at 2000 ft elevation and vigorous driving. Actually, the only time the temps rise is at idle anyway. The fans come on at indicated 230F which is just under the 235F indicated boiling point for unpressurized 60/40.

 

I would bring it back to the shop and have them fix it

 

Or find a better shop. There is good and bad in every business. Getting a bad meal has not stopped me from going to restaurants.

 

Grease Monkeys! Go to another garage, this sounds like a poor show...

 

most times shops often fit and clamp these hoses dry, and say "it's good enough"

personally, i always swab a bit of silicone gasket sealer on my rad hoses. it fills any imperfections and enhances the seal for longer durability (mainly from crapy hoses).

 

Wow that sucks , Never mind (didnt have the background story)

 

Rodney:

Look up Breeze Aero Seal clamps. All stainless, very reliable.

When space permits, I use t-bolt clamps (also made by Breeze). The t-bolt clamps are sleeved so that they don't pinch or cut the hose. They also provide uniform clamping force.

I have never had an issue with these clamps, ever. They are about as good as it gets.

 

Sorry to hear this Rodney, I'm not sure, but if you just paid 10k to service the whole engine the workshop has to do some fixing and that I mean for free. It is a common place for leaks, but this only leak if it has not been touched or that the pipe was bad and didn't got replaced on the T part.

It is manageable to do it yourself, but I would call the shop first that it is leaking. Doing things yourself first will void your warrantee I guess.

If the pipe is beyond rotten bad, which is not unusual you will need to take off your intake manifolds. Beware of the plenums as they hold little spacers that easily flip into your intake.

 

Does anybody use silicon hoses? Or just Gates rubber? What's the opinions here?

 

my experience with silicon hoses on old cars is not good as often the tube or where it goes on is not smooth enough. You really need to fasten the clamp tight with silicon hoses. Gates or any other rubber hose closes off better.

My 2cnts

 

I have silicone for the big radiator feed and return lines, no problems. Silicone hose absolutely requires special clamps. Everything else is conventional hose per MvT's reasoning.

 

I use standard rubber, looks original, seals better on old metal, good for another 30 years

 

fancy braided shield just covers your issues and its not stock if you go for judging

 

I'm in the find a better shop camp. I used good quality hoses and after replacing them all and clamping them tight I haven't had a single leak for 5 years. I did it myself. I hate the idea of changing all hoses. I'd think if clamped properly they should be mostly good for their life. Maybe a touch here or there. Did they replace the hose from the center of the valley to the expansion tank? That is what appears to be the least frequently changed hose and thus goes bad at the age of our cars.

 

does the whistle go away after warm up?

I have a slight whistle with a cold car with new belts and bearings nothing once warmed up

there are threads in the 308/328 section that will help you