Hi Ok I bought a new battery and the car started with no issue. However it seems to stall after a second or two. I have checked and replaced the relavent relays and fuses , checked for fuel too! However she keeps stalling. Any ideas from you guys on how to fault diagnose and fix so I can drive her?
Grrrrr! I have read as much as I can and tried it out - no luck. It's like the motor turns over then stalls. I have tried clutch in, clutch out. Etc So now I am in the laps of F chatter then the garage !!!
Maybe not quite enough information regarding the stall circumstances to make a good guess. Does the stall occur when the motor is cold, and also after it is up to running temperature? By stall do you mean totally quits running and will not restart, or restarts and keeps running, or hesitates but keeps running without re-using the starter? Does it quite running when the key returns to the run position, i.e. after it is released from the start position? A bad fuel accumulator will make it hard to start or restart after it has set for a while or has cooled down. I think it is unlikely electrical unless the run contacts in the ignition switch are failing to make a good electrical connection. That could happen anytime it is running though. If it occurs on cold start up I would think it might be the fuel accumulator. You might try to find the thread on how to disconnect the fuel pump safety switch on the fuel distribution unit to make sure your fuel pump is running when attempting to start the motor. Good luck, Jerry Webber
There are many possibilities, mostly related to pressures and air leaks, that should be checked in the correct sequence when fault finding the CIS system. Some suggestions: 1) If stalling when cold one item to check is the auxillary air valve (particulary from the the inlet side) 2) If stalling when hot then "rest" pressures should be checked (could be loss of system pressure so start with fuel pump pressure delivery, etc.) The CIS system will still run without an accumulator in the fuel delivery line (or one with a leaking diaphram - although in any case if the tip of the vent pipe is "wet" then the accumulator is toast and should be replaced with a new accumulator). Best to get a good Tech who knows the system well especially if you are not familiar with the CIS workings (and make sure they have a proper pressure test kit).
Hi thanks When cold (car has been stored for 3 months) the engine will crank over then stop It will start again when cranked but will stop again. I will check the fuel accumulator and aux air intake. Umm where are they?
Sounds as if it is not really "stalling" if only cranking on the ignition key and is only "turning over" on the starter? Definitely get a Tech on to it if you are not sure of the system and where the components are located (not meant as a criticism). The Auxillary Air VALVE will look similar to the attached photo and should be located with the mounting side fixed, for example on the 3.2, to the underside of the water system header tank. Fuel accumulator will be located engine-side on the forward bulkhead down and around the right-hand side (driver side in UK/Australia) air intake vent (cheese grater). PS: Remember with these fuel systems that fuel is under pressure and it is essential all the fuel tank and delivery/return hoses are in good condition to avoid leaks and potential fire hazard. Hoses may look OK from the outside but after all these years I can guarantee they will horrify you if you section them and look inside! Invest on new hoses! Image Unavailable, Please Login
This sounds like a fuel system issue. When the engine is cranked, the CSI (Cold Start Injector) squirts a jet of fuel into the plenum to aid starting. (It works like a primer in a carburetor). If the engine is stalled after 1~2 seconds, it is possible that it was only feeding on the little bit of fuel supplied by the CSI.
To get to the fuel accumulator, jack up the right rear wheel, remove it, and unscrew the 8 or so screws which hold the wheel well liner in place. The accumulator and the fuel filter are close to each other. Change them both. BTW, do this where you have good ventilation, because some fuel will escape. Shop around on the internet for the accumulator, as the prices vary widely. Good luck!
But I had a similar problem and it was a relay. Have a look at this: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/mondial/340474-rough-idle-after-start-when-cold-help.html
Your Profile says "Mondial 1985 qv 3.2" so I'll assume that it is a euro version (K-Jet without Lamda) - if not, please state what version Mondial 3.2. If it is a euro version, the first thing you should do is just unplug the safety switch on the fuel distributor and turn the key "on" = you should hear the fuel pump run. If it doesn't, that has to be fixed. On the K-Jet models, the fuel pump is run by a different electrical path during starter cranking than the path it is run when the key is released to "on" -- so you can get the symptom of the fuel system pressurizes during starter cranking and the engine fires up, but when you release the key to "on" after the engine starts and the fuel pump shuts off = the engine dies after a few seconds as the fuel pressure slowly falls.
Follow what Steve has suggested also remove air filter intake housing and you will see the intake plenum that should have some resistance when you have pressure in the system
Thanks for the advice everyone. I have decided to let the mech take a look and give a price on changing all the pipes/leads too. Has anyone else changed the pipes/lines/leads in their engine and if so was it expensive??
Lol the car has always been fun (maybe not at the time of problems) and there is no regret on buying her.
I've had many good times with my Mondial's. They always reminded me of my Riva when driving. Best of luck in getting it cured. I bet it's the fuel pump or something powering it.
