So while I was doing some spirited driving, my Check 5-8 engine light would turn on and off. When I got home I pulled the code and got the 1211 & 1212 For those that are not aware, these are O2 sensor codes....basically saying the air/fuel mixture is in a funk. Reading through threads I found out this could relate to many things, but the easiest thing to do first is clean the MAF sensor. Also verify the 'resistance' is correct (factory setting is 383 ohmz) - that's easy to do as well - with the engine off you put a meter on the 1 & 6 pin of the MAF. There is a switch that lets you adjust the resistance rating....but you do have to pry this stupid factory installed blue plug that prevents idiots like me from messing with it. (takes all of 5 min) So I bought some MAF cleaner $5, got a new filter $50 while I'm at it, and bought 2 Bosch O2 sensors ($50 each on sale). The first step is replace the air filter (mine was pretty dingy)...verify resistance setting then clean out and SWAP the MAF. Drive again....if the 5/8 Light comes on, you know it's not the Filter or the MAF....so then you replace the O2 sensor (which is relatively easy) If the 1-4 Light comes on, you know it's the MAF.... If after doing all these steps the 5/8 light still comes on, then it's something else.... Just thought I would report here my findings. If anybody sees anything stupid that I may have missed - don't hesitate to reply and bonk me over the head! Cheers
So were you able to pinpoint the source of your problem or you just changed all of the above and now no more error codes? Btw, do not use a performance air filter that you have to oil; i.e. K&N The extra oil from filter will muckup the MAF on the T. The K&N air filter is one of the first things I bought for my car, but the 3.2 does not have the MAF sensor that can get damaged from excess filter lube. I didn't notice any changes either but just like having good stuff on the car. However, the T IIRC does have a MAF sensor so be careful not to lube the filter in excess as it will foul up the MAF than you'll have problems. Best, Mike
So far replaced the air filer with a brand new K&N (didn't re-oil), cleaned the MAF and swapped it to the other side. So far so good. If the 5/8 light comes on again I'll swap out the O2 sensor..if the 1/4 light comes on now - I'll refurb the MAF I'll give an update either way! Thanks Mike!!!
Hi Paul. I am assuming your 't' has a mass air sensor my 3.2 does not have? The device on my car seems entirely an airflow system. The more throttle, the more the flap opens and the more fuel is metered to the continuous flow injection. Then the O2 sensor trims the mixture in some way. The entire time I have owned my 1986 3.2 coupe the check engine light has been on and off without any apparent effect on the engine. Two years ago when I received delivery I smelled some sulphur at times indicating a rich mixture. However, after diligent carbon cleaning of the entire exhaust system that went away. Just for the hell of it I then decided to protect the valves from hot combustion threat and enriched the K-Jet with 1/8 turn clockwise to the internal adjustment screw. Doing that did not return the sulphur smell, and the car was running like a scalded dog. I assume the check engine light is seeing this mild rich mixture but just don't know. If I ever sell the car I will certainly explain this. However, given the fact the car has given me going on 11,000 miles reliable running I do not anticipate any changes. Perhaps some electrical tape over the 'check engine light'. By way of explanation my 1991 supercharged Mark VII would see rich condition and illuminate the check engine light whenever the boost activated the FMU [fuel management unit] which simply spiked the fuel pressure by shutting off the return fuel flow. That car had a Manifold Absolute Pressure system that could not tolerate boost. Accordingly, when boost was sent into that system it was vented. The most odd thing is the Speed Density system was able to use O2 sensors to trim seriously overloaded injectors under 8 psi boost. It never gave a hickup in 190,000 miles. In fact, I have a second Mark VII being built to the same specs as we speak. In general, I simply do not have the technical training to understand all this stuff with the following exceptions. Both Mark VII and my 3.2 Ferrari ran like scalded dogs and seem to thrive on it. I am entirely happy to have any amount of commentary on my approach. One learns by commentary of any and all types.
Hi David...I'm not too familiar with the 3.2..but I think you're right. Great writeup. I'm pretty sure the light has to do with the o2 mixture and dirty sensors. About a couple hundred miles and the light has not come on after cleaning the MAF. I swapped both. If the 1-4 engine light comes on now...with a 1211 or 1212 code I'm pretty sure I have a bad MAF. If the 5-8 light comes on again...I'll swap out the O2 sensor ($50 on Amazon for the plug and play) If the 5-8 light still comes on after swapping out O2 sensor..I know it's something else. Fingers crossed..but so far smooth sailing. P.S. Thanks to the site my348.com - I got all this info from that site!!
Hi All, I want to thank the site my348.com for a lot of info. I'm getting the Lambda codes and swapped the MAFs and found the check engine light switched - so I'm pretty sure my MAF is on the fritz. I cleaned it out with MAF cleaner, and cleaned the contacts...unfortunately no dice. I see they are about $1,200 at Ricambi, but read they are exactly the same as the Saab 900 MAF Bosch part # "0 280 212 017" Bosch part # "0 280 212 018" I found one place googling in Germany, but after placing in an order they said they were out of stock. Checked eBay - no luck. Just wanted to see if anybody had any leads on where I can pick one up? Cheers
Found the part: This is the new version Mass Air Flow Sensor Meter MAF Bosch 0 986 280 119 Fits Saab New | eBay
Hi Paul, Great seeing you on the last drive and after we spoke I went and pulled my codes. Im getting 1212 twice during the diag. My O2 sensors are brand new and were replaced in November. I will clean the MAF's today and see what happens. Excellent find on the Saab equivalents and thanks for posting the link. I'll keep you posted as well. Darryl
Darryl, thanks for the kind words...I learned the one MAF that has the right Map for proper air/fuel mixture is the one that ends in 18. Stay clear of the other ones! Go with: 0 280 212 018 I can't find anybody that sells it, but that company I linked to does rebuilds and they are in Tracy! See you next drive! Cheers
PSA this is the WRONG part...has inproper map!!! 0280212018 is the correct one..verified with actual Bosch spec sheet...specifically lists Ferrari Mondial t
Here is that spec sheet I was talking about so you don't have to take my word for it! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Paul, How do you clean the MAFs? What is MAF cleaner? I got the same Slow Down 5/8 code. Cats are repacked and have new O2 sensors, so I have to assume it's the A/F mixture or the MAF on the fritz. Let me know. Bruno
I myself had an intermittent 1212 code on bank 5-8 for quite a while on my 1990 Mondial t. It would come on after a drive or two, stay on for a while, disappear sometimes during highway drives, come back on when coming off a highway, and then sometimes disappear again for a while. I finally solved the problem, but it was something that I had not seen on any threads discussing 1212 or websites such as my348.com. So here is my saga, in case my experience may be useful to others in this community. I decided to focus on simple things first. I also wanted to clean/replace low cost components (sensors, valves, etc.), as I was going along, since my engine was basically original and I wanted to renovate it anyway. I first swapped the MAFs, cleaned contacts, and applied Stabilant. But 1212 remained on bank 5-8. I then put in 2 new oxygen sensors. But 1212 remained on bank 5-8. I then put in 2 new water temp sensors (125769). Engine then ran a lot better, seemed a lot more in tune, but 1212 remained on bank 5-8. I then put in new check valves (148494), new cut-off valves(147390), and 2 new crankshaft position sensors. But 1212 remained on bank 5-8. I then disassembled and cleaned the 2 rear solenoid valves (111704). I then cleaned the 2 regulators (142432). But 1212 remained on bank 5-8. I then replaced all relays and fuses in the electrical panel since this was something I had been planning for a while since all were the old metal can relays. The seat belt buzzer then sounded much healthier!! Then I remembered that there are also relays in the trunk for the fuel pumps and injectors, so I then replaced 4 relays with new. The idle then became noticeably smoother, but 1212 remained on bank 5-8. Then I replaced 4 fuses in the trunk, but 1212 remained on bank 5-8. Then I was looking at some recent Mondial thread which showed a photo of 6 relays in the trunk, so I then replaced 2 more relays, but this did not get rid of 1212. Finally, I changed the 6 blade fuses in the trunk. Now, after about a dozen outings, on highway and roads, including a day trip of 320 miles from Boston to the Lime Rock track, the 1212 has completely disappeared. So the source of my problem was my old tarnished blade fuses in the trunk, which probably caused a voltage drop to the fuel pump and/or injectors on bank 5-8.
Hi Bruno, Sorry I never responded to this! This got lost to me in threads. It's super easy to clean. There are a number of MAF spray cleaners you can buy from any auto-parts store (online as well as off) You take out the MAF, you spray them and let them dry... That's it!
wow! that is indeed a saga!! Could you talk more about the "blade fuses" you specifically replaced in the trunk? Cheers
There are 4 fuses("valves") (125240) in the trunk labelled #54 in the diagram "Engine Ignition-2.7." They are standard 7.5 amp blade fuses. There are also 2 other blade fuses in the trunk, also 7.5 amp. (These appear to be for the engine bonnet and the trunk bonnet. At the top-right of the diagram "Electrical Board", under Coachwork Parts, there is an insert that shows 2 relays (138075) in the trunk for the engine bonnet and trunk bonnet. Fuses are not shown in this Electrical Board diagram, but it seems that these 2 extra other fuses are there to protect the bonnet circuits.)
Thank You!! Just a note - these same exact fuses would blow when I had a bad fuel pump. Replaced the fuse and pump - no check engine light! Cheers
Also, I should note for the sake of completeness that I had previously replaced the 2 fuel pressure regulators with new when I did my major service a couple of years ago, so I did not think the fuel pressure regulators could be the source of the 1212. I almost got to the point of 'swapping' my fuel pumps by doing some cross-over fuel lines in the engine bay, but fortunately I found the fuse problem first!!
