Fuel tank repair price

Hello all, my car sat dormant for many years. After sorting it out and cleaning out the old gook and gas that turned to a grease like substance, a few of the seams on the right side bottom of the tank began to seep.

I my employee ( dressed in his mechanic clothes) to a radiator repair shop ( after I thoroughly removed all the fumes making it safe for welding) and told him to say he didn't know what car it came out of. " Just one of my bosses old cars". One welder came over and said " Which model of Ferrari does he have?

So my little plan to avoid the Fcar tax failed.

Anyway, after pressurizing it, he said there were many pinholes on the right bottom, and said he would replate it ( taking and 1/8 sheet of aluminum) and go directly over the current bottom.

His price was 650 plus tax.

I felt this was expensive, and told him I would decide over the weekend. The materials are near 90 dollars retail ( I looked at a sheet of aluminum 24x48 incles)

Does anyone have any idea on the repair cost? Is the 650 reasonable? Is there a better easier way? Should I simply aluminum braze it ( cold melt rods?) Should I use an epoxy sealer? That kind of makes me nervous?


Any ideas will be welcome. I hate to sound so cheap, but 650 is way more than I expected.

Thank you

Rich

 

Thanks for all the input and links. No, I will not weld a tank that was freshly removed. There are a few "safe" methods to make the tank safe enough to weld. You can let it air out for many weeks. You can wash it out thoroughly using water and dish detergent then let it air out. You can attach a hose to a late model car's tailpipe, and run the exhaust thru the tank ( if this is done properly it will allow the fumes to flash from heat while circulating an inert gas thru the tank. If using any of these methods, time is still required for all fumes to go away.

There is a difference between a residual smell and vapors that can ignite.

If you ever wondered why a car doesn't explode from an in tank electric pump or even the fuel tank sending unit ( both have 12V and the potential for a lot of amperage if a short hapened) it is worth looking up.
2 years ago, an employee of mine ( one of my mechanics) asked me " why doesn't the fuel explode from the fuel pump or sender"?

One of the things that make you go hmmmm.... I understood his question and thought process, especially thinking of old time fuel level senders, which are a variable resistor which can absolutely spark during it's normal life span. I did my research and answered him.

Hint: it has to do with needing the perfect amount of air to fuel to explode, which the fuel tank in service can't provide.

At any rate, I appreciate everyone's input and concerns that I don't go kabooom!!!!!

Rich