Battery

I've had good luck with the Sears Die Hard Gold AGM. A plus is that they charge a set fee for battery replacement ($25 if I remember correctly) which is a bargain considering the amount of work to change our batteries. It can be done either way (top or wheel). I prefer doing them from the top - but for $25 I am happy for them to do it.

 

On my car there is a spare positive post, so you just have to ground a jumper cable to jump start the battery. I also have a battery maintainer hooked up.

If you can get a small set of jumper cables or a small portable battery jumper to get to the positive post, getting the car started to move it should not be an issue.

Regards,
Jerry

 

A lot of different batteries are made by the same company in Mexico. I usually just go to Wal-Mart. Battery will come out top. Also, it's good to have a disconnect on the battery itself for charging, storing, etc.

Battery Disconnect Switch

 

Optima red top in my '88.
No way anyone at Sears is installing a battery in any of my cars, expensive or not. Long gone are the days when employees at these places are actually conscientious and well trained. I am certain there are exceptions.

 

I ratify cadillacbart's thoughts. Optima via top removal & load. DIY if you want it done right.

 

Its a lot easier taking the wheel and the liner out as you can get to the fittings easier.

 

It is easier on a RHD anyway- to go in the top on a RHD you have to turn the battery longways and seal the overflow. I did not know it could go through the wheel arch the 1st time

 

Do u have an immobiliser, if so it will be fixed to a plate under the passenger feet. It will stop starter from working. If not check 12 volts to the starter solenoid, you can put a wire on solenoid and it should engage starter. Mondials can be modified by adding a secondary relay, this is tapped off the positive cable to the solenoid, look for extra cables

 

They suffer from a drop in voltage to the solenoid, such that it will not pull it in, the relay mod gets around this

 

Relay mod:
Alden
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The simple WR1 is a no brainer. My car never left me stranded or needing a push [which these cars to very well]. None the less I did not like the click click click of the original system even though the fourth or fifth click would start the car. Oddly, even with the WR1 with my rebuilt Bosche start went very much haywire. I do not know why, but it would simply engage haphazardly. Whether the WR1 was badly wired I do not know.

I had installed a NEW starter and new WR1 and it has been smooth sailing ever since. These cars are not for the faint of heart.

 

I bought the biggest deep discharge battery available that would fit. It was only about $120 or some such. I installed it from the top which required serious origami skills with the various front inside panels. However, I no longer worry if I leave the lights one. Or whether there are residual drains. It CAN go dead for all I care. Although it has only done so once. And never since.

I am rather meticulous at turning the on-off switch to OFF if it will be parked for more then a week or so.

 

Italian vehicles of all sorts are noted for weak wiring. My brother-in-law is a Moto Guzzi motorcycle enthusiast and he insists on new and better wiring. Others do like I have done - add intermediate solenoids. Both approaches work.

 

These cars have weak wiring its just that simple. If a good battery charge and resultant full voltage is sufficient then that is sufficient. I personally believe everyone should simply add the WR1 intermediate solenoid.

Be aware, however, that the connectors are not exact matches. In my case it became apparent there was a 'crimp' insufficiency. Simply make certain the male-female connectors are fully engaged and fully crimped.

 

is the red battery light on when you drive the car? Red light bottom of idiot dash lights between the tach and speedo

 

You said that you heard a click, that's probably the solenoid operating, so maybe the wiring is not the problem ? Could be a problem within the starter/solenoid unit. The problem also sounds intermittent, so the unit may test good on a bench, and then not work in the car at a later point in time. Your best bet may be installing a new or rebuilt starter, or getting an upgraded starter.

 

There are two steal webbed ground straps. One at the battery and one someplace on the engine. When I installed the new monster deep discharge battery I removed and vigorously cleaned ALL the connectors. I have not yet done the same for the engine ground, where ever it might be located. But I have a good start every time for the last three years.