BLEED VALVE / SCREW

Hmm, just thinking on this one. Presumably the clutch is on the floor as stated. This means 2 things.
1. Master or slave cylinder failing. I would normally say slave cylinder which is in the engine bay, however since you have all the fluid in the reservoir still, it might point to the master cylinder in the footwell.
Is there any evidence of fluid in the footwell carpet?
2. Also the non return of pedal could mean the return spring is broken or disconnected. From memory I'm sure the Mondial has one, as when I was bleeding my system I don't ever remember having to pull the pedal up.
So you may want to check this also.
The bleed nipple for the clutch is accessible through the left rear wheel arch, left and in from the gear cascade on the bell housing.
Good luck, Bell

 

The bleed nipple is indeed accessible after removing the left rear wheel arch, but is still a bit tricky to get at, you will be working by "feel". If the screw is not too tight and you have a pressure or vacuum bleeder, it should be doable by a handyman. The slave in the engine bay is near the header and takes a lot of heat so is a fairly common point of failure. Might also replace the clutch line if you have to replace the slave, as this line also is prone to heat related deterioration.

 

Bleeding these systems is a monster head ache. First, the only actual bleed valve I know of is on the slave cylinder at the rear. It looks like a simple grease fitting on top and can be easily unscrewed a half turn or so to let it bleed into an attached plastic tube.. Further, I do not see how any one individual can purge this system. I tried day upon day and gave it up.

It is important to keep the reservoir full so that IT does not suck air. Then it is important to have someone in the rear to lightly loosen the bleed valve each time the clutch pedal is depressed to let fluid [and any air] out and then close it. And then lifting the clutch pedal up again.

Repeat until doomsday.

I spent the better part of an entire month replacing the master and slave cylinders. I used Alpha parts and BOTH failed under extreme circumstances. So I did it AGAIN with Ferrari parts. They are way worth more then the ten times more they cost! Bleeding the system? I do not believe an one person should even attempt it.

Its not a complicated system. It is simply incomprehensible because it LOOKS like it should be an easy flush job. It was not easy. Even my local wrench had to do it twice. But in the last couple of years the clutch has been entirely normal. Zen Buddhism might be in order.

 

It is not difficult to bleed the clutch or brakes on a Mondial by yourself if you have the appropriate equipment.
I've attached a photo of the clutch slave cylinder, taken with the engine out, which shows the bleed screw on top of the cylinder and this might be helpful. Normal access is via the left hand rear wheel arch.
I imported to the UK from the US a Motive Power Bleeder for this purpose (model 0100 European cars with a type 1100 threaded hydraulic fluid reservoir cap which retails at about $70) and found the service provided was excellent (no connection). If bleeding is your only problem then this will solve it.
If the slave cylinder proves to be corroded internally then a replacement is probably the best answer - followed by bleeding. However the slave can get stuck on the supporting studs and extraction can be a real challenge.
If the problem lies with the master cylinder or hydraulic lines then different challenges present themselves but it is still doable with patience, time and money. Good luck.
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Have a look on the DIY sticky thread, page 3. I previously wrote a step by step guide with photos on the bleed procedure for a clutch