Replacing the valve cover gaskets?

Based on the work I did performing a major service on my 3.2 QV last year, I have to say that even valve covers on these vehicles are more work than your average car. and then you have to consider whether or not the leaks are coming from the covers themselves or the camshaft seals on either end. Which leads to more work, parts etc. At that point it might make sense to consider having someone else look at replacement if you are at all uncertain in your ability to tackle the job.

So my first question would be how long has it been since the last major has been done? If the major was a fairly recent event and the leaks do indeed appear to be from the covers, my suggestion would be to re-torque the valve cover nuts. I found that the new gaskets compress which then lessens the overall torque which can then lead to leaks. As I was getting to the later stages of reassembling my engine from the service, I re-torqued the valve cover nuts 3-4 times over the course of a week until I got stable, consistent readings. I think the torque value is 9nm if I remember correctly...and based on the fact that it is a rather complicated gasket scheme, think having the cover nuts at equal values is probably very important in these engines.

If torqueing doesn't do the trick, then replacement is the way to go but doesn't hurt to try the simple fix first.

My two pennies....

Brock

 

To pull the covers the distributor caps have to come off and the backing plate removed, I'm trying to recall if the belt covers have to be removed, don't think so. On my first service with the engine in place it was nearly impossible to see some of the area I was working on without mirrors as it was tucked behind the fuel injection unit.

Not a simple task on these cars but not impossible. The gaskets have to be cut to shape around the edges and there is the chance you will find the O ring at the belt end to be clipped or otherwise damaged, or just old and then you really need to pull the cams to replace the O ring. Or as I've seen so many times, more goop.

 

Yep, then it becomes a "while you are in there" can of worms.

Tighten the bolts, bet that will stop your leak, IF that is where it is coming from.
Alden

 

Was it leaking before, or is this something new?

 

I changed my valve cover gaskets on my 3.0 QV Coupe last year when I first got my car, without taking the engine out of the car. The rear bank had a small leak of oil onto the exhaust manifold, it was a bit fiddly but worked out fine.... (I'm not a mechanic either!)

1) I removed the rear engine bonnet lid for better access, the heat insulation was flaking off needed replacing anyway
2) Took off the distributor caps + rotors, ignition leads, boots & clips from both banks (Label them up!). Can't remember if I had to loosen some bolts underneath the distributor plates.
3) Unclipped the valve cover vent hoses & removed them (including the aluminium pipe)
4) Unclipped the air plenum large rubber air feed hose
5) Unbolted the engine mount stay, which bolts into one of the valve covers
6) In a matrix/mesh pattern - loosen the valve cover domed nuts, some of the threaded shafts came out of mine when unscrewing, but was easy to unscrew them from the nuts after taking off
7) With a rubber mallet, I tapped at the valve covers gently to release them from the block...
8) Next was to scrape off the old gasket material from both the engine block and valve covers
9) Thoroughly clean both contact surfaces once the old gasket was off
10) Next was to clean the valve covers with degreaser and hot soapy water
11) Once dried off, fit the new gaskets with some gasket sealant
12) Install is reverse procedure of steps 1 to 6. I took the opportunity to replace the rusting chrome dome nuts with stainless steel versions.

I bought my valve cover gaskets from Superformance in the UK, however thought they were S**t quality - as they weren't accurately cut to size and had to make some modifications. So wouldn't buy from them again.

Good luck, get yourself a small step ladder and plenty of blankets/soft covers to prevent damage to the body work whilst leaning over etc.

Mike
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MaseratiMike's photo reminded me of another place that often goes unnoticed in terms of valve cover gasket leaks - the spark plug wells. Are there any of your spark plug extenders/insulators that are bathing in oil?

 

Once the engine mount stay removed you can pull the engine backwards and block it that way with something. So you will have more access to the front bank !
Also you can lower the back side of the car to rest on the under rear suspensions wishbones (touching floor with some wood), so engine will be declined backwards esayer.

Guido

 

Or you could simply remove the access panel behind the rear seats, (spider only as I can't remember if the coupes have it)

 

Coupes do not....

 

one tip I always used on my ex 308 2V was to trim the gasket a little short where it meets the cam o ring seal and apply small bead of sealant (of your choice) to bridge the gap. The gasket can cut into the o ring at that junction and cause a leak down the road.

 

I know this is an older thread but would appreciate some insight. I have an 89 Mondial t coupe. Small oil leak on lower left valve cover dripping onto manifold. I am planning on the first attempt to tighten valve cover bolts to (9Nm correct?). If that doesn't do it then I plan to replace gasket. I have found a few options online in purchasing new ones. Plan to probably do both sides while in there... I have found some gaskets with silicone rings at spark plug ports and some without. I also have found complete kits with cam gaskets, o-rings, etc. Can anyone offer me some insight into ordering the correct gasket kit? I would rather order a whole kit with any and all possible pieces then get into the JOB and find I need something I elected not to purchase. My other option is to start the work and replace the pieces after seeing what is in there. If I do that then I will have to wait for the parts to arrive.

 

Just replacing the gaskets alone likely won't stop the leaks. I have found that you need to use a silicone gasket sealer. I like Permatex ultra black. And you have to put a dolop at the juncture of the head-valve cover-O ring. So this sealer is contacting, and glued to the O ring. I would give it at least 48 hours to cure before you run it.

I have read some other ideas put forth here such as using square O rings instead of round ones, or having the valve cover trued. I think what is happening over time is that the valve cover is warping slightly. I have never tried these other methods.

Also, make a template of your new gaskets, because they likely won't be available forever. This will make it easy to cut a new set.