stranded today due to short in Battery Disconnect Switch | FerrariChat

stranded today due to short in Battery Disconnect Switch

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by djs308, Apr 23, 2017.

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  1. djs308

    djs308 Formula 3
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    David S.
    #1 djs308, Apr 23, 2017
    Got stranded today – first time for me in 3 years with my Mondial. Always have it on the battery charger. Drove it this afternoon, no problem at all. Parked it for about 20-30 minutes and went to start it again. Turned the key, and got one click before it went dead.
    I mean, it was DEAD. No lights of ANY kind, and of course, no start. I checked the battery, checked fuses, everything *seemed* ok. Tried jumping it. No luck there either. I had a feeling it was some connector or wire loose but everything looked and felt ok. My troubleshooting skills are extremely limited and I also had my wife and son in the car too, so had to deal with it quickly.

    Got it towed to my mechanic, who thankfully was able to meet me on a Sunday and he took a look. After jiggling the battery disconnect switch, the Mondial came back ALIVE. Got power, lights, and everything! Engine fired right up! He thinks the battery is ok as it had plenty of juice, but something with the battery disconnect switch is flaky and shorting something. May be it's corroded internally? NLA part, so I hope it can be cleaned up! He thought it might be better to just bypass the switch entirely, if it can't be replaced or cleaned up sufficiently. Pros and cons to doing that?

    Secondarily, my fuse box seems to be on the way out. I know this has been covered many times before, and various opinions on which route to take with that. So I need to research this subject anew.

    Anyone else experience a flaky disconnect switch?
     
  2. PV Dirk

    PV Dirk F1 Veteran

    Jul 26, 2009
    5,401
    Ahwatukee, AZ
    #2 PV Dirk, Apr 23, 2017
    I had the exact same problem. This has come up a number of times and I'd read about it. Thankfully when mine died I cycled it a few times and it's been fine ever since. I never tried to pull it apart. I think it's a common failure spot.
     
  3. djs308

    djs308 Formula 3
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    #3 djs308, Apr 23, 2017
    Interesting...
    My mechanic had even mentioned cycling it a few times might be enough to loosen whatever crud may be on the contacts. I hope that will be sufficient here, knowing that a new one is not available.
     
  4. PV Dirk

    PV Dirk F1 Veteran

    Jul 26, 2009
    5,401
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    #4 PV Dirk, Apr 23, 2017
    I know a number of people
    Have eliminated them. You might try summit racing and just search battery disconnect. There should be something that would work. Or just do what I did. When I park it for a while I use the disconnect so I do use it periodically now.
     
  5. StuR

    StuR Formula Junior

    Jun 14, 2005
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    Stu R
    #5 StuR, Apr 24, 2017
    Yes. Sometime ago and I got an OEM and replaced the switch, but later bypassed anyway.

    It isn't a particularly hi tech piece of kit and it seamed it would be fine, but eventually go south and added a weak link for all the gremlins anyway. If I remember it really wasn't a high end part. I found the grounds were not great in places anyway and this didn't help.

    Personally, if originality is key I'd clean up (or keep the pieces), but don't worry about fitting without it. There are plenty of aftermarket alternatives if you require a disconnect, e.g. For servicing / security.

    No doubt others will have different experiences. Have a good look at the part and see what you think. Hope that helps.


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  6. spicedriver

    spicedriver F1 Rookie

    Feb 1, 2011
    3,859
    #6 spicedriver, Apr 24, 2017
    Get a disconnect like this:

    Battery Disconnect Switch

    It's much too simple for anything to go wrong. You might have to bypass the original switch. Disconnect the battery every time you charge it.
     
  7. djs308

    djs308 Formula 3
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    #7 djs308, Apr 24, 2017
    All very helpful suggestions, thanks!
    Originality isn't a huge criteria at this point. Not entering the car in any judged concorsos. Another potential electrical weak point in my car is the alarm system that's been in there since the 80s. It still works, but no doubt should probably be removed. I haven't done so as yet because who knows just what fresh mess would be uncovered lurking in that system!
     
  8. StuR

    StuR Formula Junior

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    #8 StuR, Apr 24, 2017
    And that's assuming the mice don't attack you!!! Seriously, another weak point on mine was the engine ground and the actual plug connector for main power. Addressing those made a useful difference.


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  9. afterburner

    afterburner F1 Rookie
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    #9 afterburner, Apr 24, 2017
    That would be the contrary of a short...it disconnected.
    The switch is on the negative side.
    Your battery's negative terminal wasn't connected to the chassis anymore.
    In fact, if it did short to the chassis, you wouldn't notice it. Everything would still work but you wouldn't be able to disconnect it.

    Cycle it using contact cleaner and it should be fine.
     
  10. djs308

    djs308 Formula 3
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    #10 djs308, Apr 24, 2017
    Yes, going to be trying that first. Hoping it is just that simple a fix. Thanks.
     
  11. bencollins

    bencollins Karting

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    #11 bencollins, Apr 24, 2017
    where is this, got a photo please?
     
  12. bencollins

    bencollins Karting

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    #12 bencollins, Apr 24, 2017
    ahah its on the battery terminal (sorry followed the link from above)
     
  13. blownfuse

    blownfuse Karting

    Jul 16, 2012
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    Campbell, California
    #13 blownfuse, Apr 24, 2017
    First bit I replaced (along with the battery) when I got my Mondi was the disconnect switch. It's a cheap bit of insurance against problems like what OP experienced.

    It can double as a security device if you put a keyed switch in its place.

    I just got a nice plain chrome switch from here: Battery Switches | JEGS
     
  14. Alden

    Alden F1 Rookie
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    #14 Alden, Apr 24, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  15. petrolheadjeff

    petrolheadjeff Karting

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    #15 petrolheadjeff, Apr 28, 2017
    I think this stupid switch might have been a legal requirement for US cars. My Euro car doesn't have one and never did
     
  16. Indyjones

    Indyjones Karting

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    #16 Indyjones, Apr 28, 2017
    My '88 3.2 has one as well...US model...I have never used it though. Seems pretty simple to bypass if you want to get rid of it.
     
  17. Faber

    Faber Formula Junior

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    #17 Faber, Apr 28, 2017
    Took original on the 3.2 apart & subsequently replaced original w/ another used/functioning one from GT Car Parts - bypass would be easy also.
     
  18. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #18 Rifledriver, Apr 28, 2017
    Not a US requirement. Parts book shows it as applicable for all markets and I have worked on many European versions that had them.

    288 had them and no 288 was ever built for US market.
     
  19. afterburner

    afterburner F1 Rookie
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    #19 afterburner, Apr 28, 2017
    My UK-delivered QV and my father's French delivered GT4 both have an original switch, which by the way is mentioned in the Owners Manual.
     
  20. StuR

    StuR Formula Junior

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    #20 StuR, Apr 28, 2017
    Ditto.


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  21. Alden

    Alden F1 Rookie
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    #21 Alden, Apr 29, 2017
    Mine works fine, but you do have to do some maintenance on them from time to time.

    A simple spray of DeOxit (my new wonder drug!) then rotate it on and off a few times a couple of times a year.

    And it is a very useful way to disconnect EVERYTHING electrical when working on the car.

    This is especially useful when working on the headlights to keep them in the up position and keep them from accidently operating and slicing off a finger.
    Alden
     
  22. Indyjones

    Indyjones Karting

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    #22 Indyjones, Apr 29, 2017
    Instead of Deoxit, some people use Isopropyl alcohol. Appearantly it has a similar deoxifying quality...and it evaporates quickly without leaving a residue.
     
  23. Alden

    Alden F1 Rookie
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    #23 Alden, Apr 29, 2017
    I don't know about that, but I always had to clean my window switches with standard contact cleaner every 3-4 months, when hit them with DeOxit, not only did they work more reliably/better/faster, but I have not re-treated them for a year or so.

    I did take the some of the spray and put some in a pinpoint oiler. The stuff is expensive for what you get and even though the spray can has H/M/L adjustments for the spray volume, even the low setting was putting out way too much, unless you were spraying a 10 pin contact or the equivalent.
    Alden
     
  24. Subito Grigio

    Subito Grigio Formula Junior

    Jun 2, 2009
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    #24 Subito Grigio, Nov 11, 2017
    The battery disconnect "kill switch" has paid for itself many, many times over - in a single encounter I had with my son! "Dad. While you were on the trip the Mondial wouldn't start. Must be something wrong with the car. I didn't break it!"

    Wink, wink!


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