Interval between majors | FerrariChat

Interval between majors

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by robogeeks, Jul 26, 2017.

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  1. robogeeks

    robogeeks Karting

    Sep 15, 2012
    112
    Hello everybody, I was wondering what is the recommendation on intervals between majors. We bought our car five years ago this October. With apparently a very good chance that there will be a Mondipalooza next summer, I want to make sure the car is totally ready for it, we had an awesome time in the first one, so we definitely want to make this one. So how often should we do a major, is it based strictly on mileage, time, or both. The car had a major a little before we bought it, a new clutch was also installed at the time, so basically the last major was done about five years ago. It is working great right now, it starts and runs real strong, but it has a small oil leak, and I need to take off the alternator either to rebuild it, or replace it, so since I must do some work to the car anyhow, should I go ahead and do a major too, regardless of mileage?
     
  2. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Mar 31, 2006
    32,793
    East Central, FL
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    Wade O.
    #2 Wade, Jul 26, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    People who want to buy your car will say that Ferrari stated "3 years or 30.000 miles for all V-8 model cars" (and thus expect a discount ;) ).

    But most owners and enthusiasts say "5 years".
    .
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  3. robogeeks

    robogeeks Karting

    Sep 15, 2012
    112
    Thanks Wade, I guess I'll go ahead and do the major now too. I don't care about sale price, because we're never selling this car, instead I'm thinking of adding to the stable, maybe a coupe, or a gt4.
     
  4. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Mar 31, 2006
    32,793
    East Central, FL
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    Wade O.
    #4 Wade, Jul 26, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  5. davem

    davem F1 Veteran
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    Jan 21, 2002
    8,246
    Stepford, Connecticut
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    dave m
    Using high quality bearings ( Hill engineering) with fresh belts, as long as you have no oil leaks on the belt and don't let it set much. Then even 5 years seems premature. Yes if there is an issue its expensive, but so are majors. These are not planes were maintaining where the downside is gravity.
     
  6. David Lind

    David Lind Formula 3

    Nov 19, 2008
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    David Lind
    Dave may be on to something here; someone should do the math! Let's see: if a major costs about $6,000 and a minor costs $3,500, and a valve job costs maybe $9,000 ...
     
  7. robogeeks

    robogeeks Karting

    Sep 15, 2012
    112
    I have a friend that owns a 1974 Citroen SM, and he in turn has a mechanic friend that owns a garage and restoration shop. That mechanic has restored several Mercedes and BMW cars dating back to the 50s, as well as helping my friend restore his Citroen, and he has done work on a few Ferraris. He has agreed to help me do the work in his shop, so I get use of the shop, do some of the work myself, but I have him and his mechanics to help me when necessary. By doing a lot of the work myself I get to save some money and learn more about the car, but I have an experienced crew to back me up and make sure the work is done right. So, what I need to know is exactly what do I need to buy, and where should I buy it. Do I just change the belts, or are there other items recommended done at this time, specially if I do an engine out job?
     
  8. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,835
    Isle of man- uk
    As long as you keep on top of the belts and idlers , oil changes etc, you can go on the miles in the book for the major services. Mine never had the big major in years. It was due one at 26 000 miles but i sold just before as it was not worth me doing it.
    Unless you have a reason the engine does not generally have to come out, you can do the belts and idlers in situ, also the clutch etc. Mine was never out in over 20 years of ownership.
     
  9. robogeeks

    robogeeks Karting

    Sep 15, 2012
    112
    Never mind my previous post, I found a 30K service kit at Ricambi for $1100, not a bad price in my opinion.
     
  10. David Lind

    David Lind Formula 3

    Nov 19, 2008
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    David Lind
    Does that kit have Hill Engineering bearings or the other kind? (Hint, hint!)
     
  11. Alden

    Alden F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed

    Apr 25, 2010
    2,913
    Central Florida
    I am confused.

    Are you guys saying that a timing belt/bearing change is considered a "major."

    I thought a "major" meant dropping the engine and checking the valve clearances, compression/leak down, belts and hoses, plugs/wires, water pump, alternator, A/C compressor, cleaning and detailing the engine, fixing any leaks and lots of other stuff, ++++.

    I also know that most of this can be done (up to the 3.2) with the engine in, but is much easier engine out.
    Alden
     
  12. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Mar 31, 2006
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    Yes is does have HE bearings.

    This is exactly correct, and the way I'd go about a "major". While dropping the motor isn't required it will give you lots of room to do all of the above.

    "Belt changes" are simply that.
     
  13. ronfrohock

    ronfrohock F1 Rookie
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    Aug 16, 2004
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    I do a major every five years regardless of mileage. Right or wrong, that's what I do.
     
  14. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Mar 31, 2006
    32,793
    East Central, FL
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    Wade O.
    That's one of the best things about long-term ownership, you know what's been done before. So a motor-out major is more beneficial for newly purchased and unfamiliar cars.

    I don't have the specs in front of me, but what's the frequency for valve adjustments?
     
  15. robogeeks

    robogeeks Karting

    Sep 15, 2012
    112
    You’re right Alden, this would be my first major, that’s why in one of my previous posts I asked what is recommended to do in addition to the belts and bearings, specially if the engine comes out. Also, in my first post I mentioned that the engine has a small oil leak, and that the alternator is not working 100% and needs to be dealt with. I am also planning to do the Volvo upgrade for the rear window regulators. Additionally, while the engine is out I would clean it and detail it, as well as the engine bay, I’m also planning to either paint or powder coat the plenum cover. That already covers some of the items you mentioned. The Ricambi major kit for the 3.2 includes the following:

    1 x End plate gasket
    1 x End plate gasket
    4 x Cam seal o-ring
    4 x Cam seal
    1 x Right valve cover gasket
    1 x Left valve cover gasket
    2 x Timing belt
    1 x Fuel filter
    1 x Air filter
    1 x Oil filter
    1 x Water pump belt
    2 x Distributor seal
    2 x Distributor cap gasket
    2 x Distributor plate gasket
    1 x Alternator belt
    1 x A/C Belt
    2 x Tensioner bearing (Hill Engineering PT308)
    4 x Cam o-ring
    1 x Thermostat
    1 x Thermostat Gasket
    8 x NGK Iridium Spark Plugs

    I think if I use every single item in the kit I should cover most of the items on your list. While the covers are open to change the gaskets I should be able to check the valve clearances, and with the engine out and access to a lift it should be easy to check, and if necessary replace, the hoses. I replaced the spark plugs a little over four years ago, and the wires looked fine, but if I need too change them, is there an upgrade I can do to the plug wires? Does anybody make better wires than the originals?

    I also finished an SRI Gold Connector Kit upgrade not too long ago, and previously did both the GT Car Parts and SRI upgrades to the fuse box, and upgraded the center console lights to LEDs, so that should cover most of the electrical system. Almost forgot, while doing the GCK upgrade I removed the ignition modules that are on top of the coils, I cleaned them thoroughly and applied new thermal grease before reinstalling them, I guess I could also do that again now, it’s a pretty simple job.

    I think that about covers what I have done, and what I am planning to do. If you can think of anything I have overlooked please let me know, if I am going to go to the trouble of taking the engine out I want to make sure I take care of as much as possible while I have the chance.
     
  16. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Mar 31, 2006
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    East Central, FL
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    #16 Wade, Jul 29, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2017
  17. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Mar 31, 2006
    32,793
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    Also, if your car is mostly correct, takes lots of "before" photos so you can recall how everything is routed.
     
  18. ronfrohock

    ronfrohock F1 Rookie
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    Aug 16, 2004
    3,941
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    Ron Frohock
    I have my valves adjusted every other major which could be excessive as I don't drive my car much.
    I bought it about ten years ago with 6000 miles on it. Purchased it from Ferrari of New England with a just completed major. - A real major.
    I have done a real major twice since, the last one late last fall. I now have 21000 miles on the car. I also had the clutch replaced and a bunch of other bits while they were in there.

    As for engine removal, I believe my mechanic decides on removal based on whether or not he has to adjust the valves. My engine has been out twice and kept in once.

    At the end of the day, the amount of extra effort / money involved to drop the engine is insignificant but the ability to inspect and replace is great.
     
  19. AUDIO RESEARCH

    AUDIO RESEARCH Formula Junior

    Feb 11, 2009
    355
    PHILIPPINES
    Full Name:
    LUIGI RAYMUND LIRA
    What is a Volvo upgrade for the window regulators ? Are these exclusive for the coupe or for the cabriolet as well ? Thanks in advance .

    audio research
     
  20. robogeeks

    robogeeks Karting

    Sep 15, 2012
    112
    Some time ago mikael82 noticed that the front window regulators from a first-generation Volvo S40/V40 (1995-2004) fit the rear windows of the Mondial, at least the cab, I’m not sure about the coupe, but if it’s the same original part for both, the Volvo part should fit both. The Volvo part is of a much more modern design, it’s simpler and more reliable. Also, the window can go a little bit lower, which allows it to completely disappear into the body, in fact, you have to put a stop so it doesn’t go too far down. Check out this thread,

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/mondial/339623-mondial-rear-windows-stuck-down-7.html

    I think he first mentions it in page 5 or 6.
     
  21. AUDIO RESEARCH

    AUDIO RESEARCH Formula Junior

    Feb 11, 2009
    355
    PHILIPPINES
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    LUIGI RAYMUND LIRA
    Thanks Rob for the info regarding the Volvo window regulators .
     
  22. sidtx

    sidtx F1 Rookie
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    Feb 9, 2014
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    At least the QV coupes don't have rear-seat windows that move. They are fixed.

    Sid
     
  23. gsfent

    gsfent Formula 3

    Nov 16, 2009
    1,096
    PB County, Florida
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    Jerry
    None of the coupes do AFAIK. My t coupe does not.

    Regards,
    Jerry
     
  24. paulchua

    paulchua Cat Herder
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 1, 2013
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    +2
     
  25. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,835
    Isle of man- uk
    If you go off spec with the ht wires, be sure you get exactly the same as they dont like it. If they work then leave well alone.
     

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