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  #21  
Old 03-01-2013, 08:59 AM
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Michael,

Try Mark Saladino at East End Outdoor Supply in East Quogue. He sells all kind of paving stones, blue stone etc... He is currently working with me on redoing my back yard and swimming pool in Hampton Bays.

I have known him for 20 years.

And he is a car guy.

His number is (631) 653-9576 - office
Cell (631) 255-0378

Fred
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  #22  
Old 03-01-2013, 04:43 PM
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I'm just about to get my entire first floor repaired and refinished. Hot water heater leaked ... .

But that's a relatively smooth wood compared with barn wood.

But I think the fire thing is probably code so you're screwed but ... even so I wouldn't use a water based sealer. They just don't hold up as well. With any of these finishes when you put 3000 lbs on four small contact patches that wood is going to flex eventually unless it an unbelievably hard and strong species like rosewood or something. When that happens eventually that sealer will crack and then the trouble starts.

Don't laugh too hard but vinyl floor, the really heavy duty thick stuff that they bend with a heat torch, in a wood finish? Yeah it wouldn't be real but they even had some of this stuff in Whole Foods that looked pretty good. Certainly warmer than slightly textured and colored concrete.

OK you can barf now ... LOL
Quote:
Originally Posted by msdesignltd View Post
I am on High ground as far as flood or water intrusion is concerned, not worried about wet wood, although H Sandy might have gotten in..if it hit the east end.

There is a new wood sealer called waterborne..it is an invisible matt almost polyurethane type wood sealer...The top could just be washed of anything..I want the atmosphere to be that of a living room...couch chairs TV..so the warmth that that floor wood have added would really have been nice..



Waterborne Finishes and Sealers

Not sold on polished concrete , but it may be the way..possibly with Rugs..concrete needs sound damping..
Gotta regroup my thoughts.


Any Other Suggestions!!!
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  #23  
Old 03-03-2013, 07:08 AM
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Our business is btnsalvage.com and based in Baltimore. We mill reclaimed wood and take down barns. Business started out to recycle construction and demolition debris that typically goes to land fill. Working on solutions for wood products coming from condemned homes, brick recycling and asphalt. It is an interesting business. You can contact at me dennis (at) btnsalvage.com
Thanks
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  #24  
Old 03-04-2013, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay GT4 View Post
I do Hardwood flooring as my business but as was mentioned you can't use it in a garage. Not only because of the fire but any water would cause the wood to expand and warp.

Why not look into concrete polishing and staining? It is amazing what can be done with concrete. Check out my friends site: Decocrete. He has a partner in the New York area also...
The acid staining photos are amazing ( Acid Staining - Acid Staining Gallery ). I used Racedeck in my garage, but would have looked into acid staining if I knew about it. I wonder how durable the acid staining finish would be in a garage though.
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  #25  
Old 03-04-2013, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by staatsof View Post
I'm just about to get my entire first floor repaired and refinished. Hot water heater leaked ... .

But that's a relatively smooth wood compared with barn wood.

But I think the fire thing is probably code so you're screwed but ... even so I wouldn't use a water based sealer. They just don't hold up as well. With any of these finishes when you put 3000 lbs on four small contact patches that wood is going to flex eventually unless it an unbelievably hard and strong species like rosewood or something. When that happens eventually that sealer will crack and then the trouble starts.

Don't laugh too hard but vinyl floor, the really heavy duty thick stuff that they bend with a heat torch, in a wood finish? Yeah it wouldn't be real but they even had some of this stuff in Whole Foods that looked pretty good. Certainly warmer than slightly textured and colored concrete.

OK you can barf now ... LOL
At any given time....a 3000 lb. car only exerts 750 lbs . per tire..
I dont think thats an issue..The look was antique anyway, cracks are good...
But I am over That..
Funny thing is, I did look at Linoleum ,....tiles are incredible today..the patterns and product has come a long way... Problem would be if there is moisture...which 99% of the time in my app. there is not..You have a layer of saran wrap holding it in..so Mold is an issue..

Need something that Breathes...
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  #26  
Old 03-05-2013, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by msdesignltd View Post
Need something that Breathes...
If your slab wasn't done with keeping moisture levels way below grade via a deep bead and drainage then that is a potential issue. There are barriers you could apply first though. I was thinking of sheet flooring and not the kind with a thin clear layer over the top. It's the same composition all the way through about 1/8" think. Solarian used to be one product name. It's only 8ft wide but you can seam it. You need a good installer who works with the stuff regularly though. But I haven't shopped that stuff in 15 years. Yeah tiles would have soooo many places to fail with all those seams.

Best of luck.
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  #27  
Old 03-05-2013, 01:07 PM
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I would avoid linoleum tile, rubber or any rolled product - it will show every little imperfection in the slab when the car is rolled over it. Ceramic tile, if specified and installed correctly, is an option - car dealers use it in showrooms all the time. If it was my project, I would use red brick - the contrast would really bring out the beauty of the wood walls. Brick (and ceramic tile which looks like brick) is available in thin profiles so it will fit under the base moulding.
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  #28  
Old 03-05-2013, 01:29 PM
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Here is a long discussion of ceramic tiles for garages:

So Can Your Floor Do This and Not Have Any Damage? - The Garage Journal Board
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  #29  
Old 03-06-2013, 09:13 AM
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Rolling a floor jack over grout seams with a few hundred pound or more on it?

I use masonite on the tile floors in my rental units and home when I move a fridge or stove.

The tile in my kitchen cracks when a 3 lb jar falls out of the fridge but I'm not sure if any real work is going to be done in this garage anyway? Just get a couple extra boxes of the tile & grout then learn how to replace the tiles and grout.

Make certain the installer gets a good bond with the concrete and no voids.
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