you need the Leonardo or a SD2 or SD3 i know my Leonardo could reset your Immobilizer if you have the latest update.
Just talked to Ferrari. They said my Immobilizer ECU is bad and I need a new one. What are my options here? Buy a new one from Ferrari?
You can try Ricambi and see if they carry it. If they do it will most likely be much less than what the dealership will charge you.
Continental Ferrari (in Chicago) requires that you buy the parts from them or they won't do the work. They wanted me to pay $1250 for Potentiometers and about $2k in labor. I told them that I would be supplying the Potentiometers (got them from Ricambi for about $500) and they refused to do the work. I purchased my car from them.....****ty way to treat a client. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I tried, Ricambi says it's a dealer only item. I'm looking it up. Is it just the little blue box under the steering column? If so, I'm seeing used prices of just $100 or so. I thought the immobilizer ecu was behind the seat and more much expensive?
The Bosch immobiliser module is behind the steering column. It is paired with your keys and the right side engine ECU. There is a cheap way to replace it (not ideal) or the correct, more expensive way: Cheap way: 1) Buy a used immo module and matching keys; 2) Swap the immo transponder from new keys to your existing keys, so your existing keys still work the locks and alarm but are matched to the new immo module; 3) Swap your left and right engine ECUs. NOTE: This will only work if the ECUs have not been swapped before, otherwise the left ECU will no longer be a virgin and will be paired to your old immo module. Correct way: 1) Buy a new immo module; 2) Ferrari code your existing keys to new immo module; 3) Right side engine ECU is put in learning mode to accept the new immo module.
Just spoke to Ferrari. They swapped out the immobilizer antenna. Didn't fix it. Their scan tool won't even link up to my immobilizer. So, the price for the immobilizer kit which includes the immobilizer, new code card and 2 new chips for my keys is $1,100. So, $1,800 total with the labor they've put into it so far, installation and programming. Plus $900 in shipping. Ugh. He said he's 90% sure this is the problem. A problem that they've never seen on a F430 before.
In my experience those immo modules can take an age to connect to, and multiple attempts. They use a really slow baud rate on the K line (diagnostic bus).
Eric - Glad you got this fixed. It took some time but hopefully it is done right and you shouldn't have to worry about it again!
They did say that I have a exhaust leak when it's cold but goes away when it gets warm. No telling what that is since I replaced the headers about 500 miles ago.
The immobilizer board had a bad Tyco relay. I sourced the relay in Portugal ($6/free shipping). I had them replaced and the car worked perfectly for 5 months, but the problem is creeping back. I may replace the immobilizer system and hopefully that will be the end of this saga. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here's a screenshot of the invoice. Was originally told the part was $1,100 but it was only $400. So $1,400 bucks in labor. Ugh. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks for sharing info and updates Eric and glad to hear is now all fixed. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Regarding the remaining clutch life....be careful. This can be fooled if someone in the past played with the parameters.
I've been told yes. On my 355 F1, the system is saying something like 90ish% worn with 15K miles and the car drives perfect. Discussing my other values with a Pro Tech it seems my "Clutch Position As New" is 13.49 mm and it's supposed to be 17ish mm. That value is used to determine clutch wear so if it's wrong, so will the calculation. I've been told 355's and early 360's will go over 100% wear (like 110%, etc) but later cars will reset to zero after 100% (I don't have 1st hand experience with this statement however). But, Pro techs will look at the other values to see if they make sense and not just go off the Clutch wear value. Ask for the full screen shot / print out. Here is mine that I pulled from my 355 with my SD2 Image Unavailable, Please Login
