1979 308 GT4

When I first got the car I thought there would be no problem getting a new MOMO wheel. There were many posts that indicated new MOMO wheels were available. This is not so. This original wheel is really no longer available. Re-covering services are available. Forza lists at least one company that will re-cover and Bill at GT Carparts can get it covered.

I have searched the boards and a GOOD re-covering may not be available. Price for re-covering is high.

I decided to try restoring the leather. If this fails, then I can always send it out for the re-covering.

Of note is that three of the steering wheel screws heads are already rounded out and stuck in place.
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Three of the screws came out easily, however, the other three were stuck. I drilled out each screw and used a screw extracter for removal. These things really work! (I have had bad experiences with the smallest size extractor breaking off though)
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I got some Leathertique products for this project. I used some leather filler, black dye, clear dye protector, leather rejuvinator oil and the dye remover.

I made a rounded spatula to apply the filler.
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Excellent report. I used the same Crack Filler from Leatherique and it is a wonder. First of all, did you use the R-Oil on the wheel BEFORE you started with the crack filler? I did that for my Corvette wheel and it brought the leather back to near-new dimensions. The crack filler then healed all the cracks. Great stuff. Thanks again for the excellent report. BTW, I love the clean lines of the 308GT4's dash.

rick '79 308GTB

 

Good point on the R-oil. I used one application of R-oil and was just experimenting with the crack filler to see how it would work. At this point I might try putting the wheel in a garbage bag with R-oil and let it soak for a few days before continuing.

I think a nice soft steerig wheel will help get rid of that 80,000 mile 'feel' the car had when I first got it. New tires, new rubber pad on the clutch pedal, adjusting the clutch, take up slack in the throttle cable, Redline Tranny oil, all have improved the 'feel' of the car.

I need to get it ready for the next 20K after which it will be a LOW MILAGE car again

 

I am interested in hearing your results. I just did about four wet coats of R-Oil over the period of four days. Putting it in a bag or even just wrapping the oil-wet leather in plastic wrap would do the trick.

Exactly. The goal of my restoration work is to make my 27-year-old car 'feel' like a new car. It already looks like one.

Regarding the Corvette wheel I restored, I found that I didn't even need to refinish the wheel when I was done with the crack filler. The wheel was black and already textured. The wheel looked very good with just R-Oil and Crack Filler.

On my 308's wheel, the leather at the spokes is letting go in places. In no place is it torn away but just lifted. I need to recement the edges down. I think I will write to George at Leatherique and ask of the Crack Filler will cement the leather to the metal - assuming it is clamped while curing. I'd certainly like to use a cement that cleans up with water and cures clear.

regards, rick '79 308GTB

 

Soaking in the R-Oil.
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I have some similar areas at the spokes. I don't know if it is the best but, I am going to try contact cement. I have had good luck removing excess by rubbing it with my finger. I'll try it in a few days after the 'soaking.'

 

I talked with George over that Leatherique and he advised that Crack Filler is not the best solution for bonding to metal. He recommended a VERY thin application of Gorilla Glue. I plan to experiment first a little on some scraps. The leather on the end of the spokes there is very thin and is under no real stess. The reason for the very thin coat is that Gorilla Glue foams as it cures. That's part of why it works SO good. It expands to fill the whole repair area. I don't want it expanding out from under the leather and discoloring the metal - thus the super thin coat. I'll try a very thin coat and report back...

 

I had a local upolstry shop re-create my antenna motor shroud. This item is in the trunk and it covers the antenna motor mechanism. They did an excellent job.

I suspect this may be missing from many cars. I can post dimensions if anyone is interested.
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I have ordered the repo-tool kit form Superperformance UK and I'll post pictures of it when I get it.

The car DID come with the Jack kit. Looks like I have most parts except the plastic bulb/fuse holder, 'sniffer tubes' for CO adjustment, belts and the triangle.

Did the US cars have the triangle? My contemporary BMWs don't have a triangle in the toolkit (but there is a place for one, it is listed as optional in the owner's manual), I think it is required only in Europe? Someone correct me if I am wrong.
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For the sake of completeness, here is what I believe to be, the correct fuel filler cap. This was on a 77 308 GTB known to have come with this cap from the factory. I suspect the 78 GT4 had the same filler cap.

The filler cap I previously posted from International Autoparts is nice but not 100% correct.
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I got the reproduction tool rool from Superperformance. The price is reasonable considering original Dino tools are like $4,000 on ebay.

It does not come with the Weber carb tool (#2 in the diagram) which I think is an 8mm small socket type wrench to take the intake stacks off.
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These tools are probably not exact reproductions, but they are close and better than not having tools at all.
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This is the trunk with the new shroud over the antenna motor and the new tool rool.
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I needed two key fobs to keep track of my Ferrari keys. "Original" ones are quite expensive and I am not exactly shure if the testarossa and the GT4 actually came from the factory with a key fob and not shure which "original" one to get. While I research this topic, I just got these from Superperformance for about 5 pounds each.
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The steering wheel is almost done. I have brush painted a number of coats of black dye over the filler and sanded between coats. I have been 'dry' sanding with 280 and 400 grid sandpaper. This really goes through the sandpaper fast. The dye is water based, therefore, the hesitation to use wet sanding.

I will do a final sand and then mask and spray the final coats. Here is the link the the "before" picture showing the same portion of the steering wheel: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=136247306&postcount=176
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Excellent work! Please share these pictures with George at Leatherique. He'll use them on his website (with your permission). Again, excellent restoration. You must be quite pleased.

rick

 

Greetings,
Actually, Weber refers to item #2 as a "Throttle Shaft Tube Spanner, 8mm and 10mm." With a bit of research, one can be found to add to your kit. It will come in handy when you do the full rebuild on your carbs, too.
As previous GT4 owners, my wife & I can attest to the fun drive. Congrats on your acquisition; 'continued success as you refine its form & function.
Cheers,

 

Wow.. it's great to see what can be done.

The steering wheel is looking great.

Greg

 

I second that. Thanks for taking the time to post all the pictures of your work, the car really looks great. Enjoy the ride.

 

After a few brush on coats of black dye with sanding inbetween I masked the wheel and sprayed about 4 or 5 light coats. I will let this dry a few days and then use the clear protectant to make the finish more durable.

It is interesting to note that the MOMO steering wheel has a date code on the back. The wheel is dated 6-78 and the car is dated 12-78.
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Sounds like a good ideas, I am glad to share this with others.

 

Width = 255mm
Height = 290mm
Small End = 142mm

Short end (top) inter-button distance (center to center) = 122mm
Long end (bottom) inter-button distance (center to center) = 190mm
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Driver's side door panel on. Still waiting on the red door light and screws for the steering wheel.
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