Crazy door

jaticker, sometimes the door locks go out of sync. Check your alarm manual. To re-synchronize the system, press the button on the key fob 3 times within a 10 second interval. See if that helps.

Barry

 

There is an "auto-arming" function for the alarm function, but the workshop manual specifically states it does not use the central locking system to lock the doors. Sounds like you have a short in the central locking system that is applying voltage to the door lock.

Taz
Terry Phillips

 

I'll lock the door, the door locks close, and then the door locks pop up and unlock. Happening more and more often. Anyone else have this happen?

 

Allan- Sounds like a linkage adjustment or lubrication issue. The door is getting the lock command and moving the linkage, but not far enough to keep it locked against whatever pressure/spring is in the system.

Taz
Terry Phillips

 

Thanks, Terry.

So where do I spray the WD-40?

 

Allan- There are a lot of little linkages in there, but I would say lubricate wherever the little bell cranks match up with a rod and the pivots/bearings on which the bell cranks rotate. The grease they use tends to harden over time. 456M door controls below.

Incidentally, there is an ECU that keeps track continuously of the status and all the problems with the windows and central locking system. An SD2 can tell you where the problem is if you have a short for our original poster.

Taz
Terry Phillips
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Terry, I wasn't referring to the "auto-arming" function. Yes, that's independent of the central locking system.

For those without a WSM, the same information is given in the 550 alarm manual. There are times when the door locks go out of synch with each other using the key fob to lock the doors. Why, I don't know. But the maneuver I described re-synchronizes the door locks. I suggested trying the re-sync procedure as a first step. If that doesn't remedy the problem, then it could be a short as you described.

Barry

 

Barry- We were both posting at the same time. I did not even see your post when mine went up. The resynch in the WSM is for a remote that is not working, I think.

Taz
Terry Phillips

 

The re-sync maneuver also helps with out-of-phase door locks, Terry. It happens to my car every so often after servicing when the battery disconnect switch is used. In my case, using the remote to unlock the doors will only unlock the passenger door. When that happens, the three quick presses of the remote button brings both door locks back in phase. Maybe the manual should read "improperly working remote or locks." Anyway the maneuver appears to work.

I'm a bit puzzled by the original poster's finding his unlocked driver's door locked in the morning. I always discover the problem when I pick up my car and correct it immediately.

Barry

 

Barry- Certainly worth a try. Cheap, too.

Taz
Terry Phillips

 

Ahh...these d@mn alarms and locks again. What I have found is with 308gtb said. Sometimes the doors will be out of sync. His fix works which I found out independently. Locks locking but not quite or locking then unlocking is just the linkage going out of adjustment, binding, or wearing. You have to take the door arm rest thing off and then you got access to the adjuster nuts to hokey pokey the actuator rods and after some trial and error the door locks work again. My 550 does not auto-arm just like one of the FNA mechanics said. Maybe the 575 auto-arms.

 

FBB- The 550 WSM says the system auto arms. What that means is if you leave a panel open, the system will warn you, but after 120-160 seconds, it will auto arm. Has nothing to do with the door locks.

Taz
Terry phillips

 

I have a similar problem as the original poster. Any time you open the drivers door from the inside, the lock actually LOCKS. It is not an electrical problem but a mechanical one. The lock pulls down as you pull up on the door handle. Looking back on 10 years of invoices, adjustments have been made several times with no solution. I habitually pull the lock up now when exiting the car. It can also cause problems with the alarm because the passenger door stays unlocked. I'm going to look for a replacement inside door handle to see if this solves the problem.

 

Me get out of car. Not lock door. Shut door. Car will not auto arm. This is a good and important function because then you can work around the alarm if you are clever.

 

FBB- You get out of car. Push little button to arm alarm and lock. Forget trunk is open. Walk away. Car auto arms 120-180 seconds later. Read WSM and reread post #3. Nobody said car alarm make up for silly owner not pushing little button.

550 same as 575M, 360, 456M, 5.2 355 and 456. Not rocket science.

Taz
Terry Phillips

 

I have had this problem on my 550 for a long time.
On my car we had and have a problem in the mechanical door lock of the RH door.
It is difficult to lock it from the inside with the lockbutton. Consequently, when I lock the doors with the alarmbutton, there is too much resistance in the RH door, which doesn't lock and then the LH door immediately unlocks as well.

I have had the RH door lock mechanism replaced at high cost but the problem came back.
The only solution is probably to open the door again and service the lock mechanism.

 

a low cost option is to prove that it is the linkage by disconnecting it from handle you activate. Then if it works you know it is the adjustment we are all talking about.

 

Door locks are working however. I'm guessing a cable that was binding up has finally broken. At least car will lock and passenger door opens from inside. Anyone experience this?

 

Anybody know what the purpose is of the spring near the back of the door that is oem in this lock mechanism? I was trying to fix my wierd acting locks and it popped off. After lubrication with WD 40 everything worked perfect so I left it off. What is it supposed to do

 

I've been fighting the problem of my drivers door not opening from the inside. When I try to open the door the lock lever goes down as the door lever is pulled up. I have to open the door from the outside. I looked at the passenger side (which works fine) and see that the lever in the back of the door to which the door and lock rods connect to are supposed to move independently of each other. On my bad door, the levers do not work independently. In fact, they move as if they are welded together. (see photo of levers in the back of the door exposed by removing the arm rest)

I do not see any rust on the levers and can get them to move independently but they bind so much when they move that I cannot open my door. I will call a parts supplier and see what to do. Any input is appreciated.
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