348 Engine Out!!

Finally have my subframe and engine out to do a major service! I decided to use my 4post lift for a couple reasons. I only have a 2-car garage, and not really enough room to roll the subframe out and keep it anywhere in the garage to work on. I also liked the idea of being able to raise and lower the subframe whenever it would help.

Advantages of doing it this way: Easier to roll around on a sit-on creeper to disconnect stuff, saves garage space, and I can easily raise and lower the subframe if needed.

Disadvantages: Less space available for working around the engine, my garage has only an 8 1/2 ft. ceiling, so once the car is up, you can't access stuff from the top (I should have removed the lid), I have to watch my head when working under there. I also think this method took a lot more time to get done, but I'm happy I did it. Not looking forward to getting things hooked back up, when the subframe is reinstalled, though!

I'm moving pretty slowly, and don't have a real schedule... just taking my time. The removal was some fun, but also a pain sometimes. Now the real fun begins!! Major, plus I'll be evaluating what needs to be done on the transaxle to (hopefully) eliminate future problems! As Larry the Cable Guy says..... Git 'er Done!!

Rick
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Thanks ND - I do need to cover the cat holes. No worries on tilting.. subframe is solid.. front of it is on heavy wooden blocks which are on the Directlift jack stand crossmember meant for lifting an axle while on the lift. Lots of weight there, so I can't even roll the unit on the tires, due to friction!

 

Thanks Roberto... Each of the stands is rated at 2 tons/4000lbs. The car is rock solid up there... I had to get behind the seats to fish the ECU cables through... no problems. First time I did a test, it did rock a bit, so I decided to shim the gaps on the stands, and all is well!! I got these from Greg Smith Eqpt., which is where I also bought the lift. List is $69 each, but they do often also sell them on Ebay cheaper, and since I bought 4, I got them for $44 each (+shipping). Hope all goes well on getting your car inspected!!

 

They're just tall jack stands I purchased from Greg Smith Eqpt. Each is rated at 4000lbs, so that's 16000 lbs for the 4.

 

LOL - Thanks John! Some may not want to do it, because it did take a lot of time to get set up, and get things completely disconnected while lowering, due to lack of space on top. But I wanted to do it because of my limited space. It will be easier on my next major service in 2009 (ok, maybe I"ll extend it to 2009 1/2)
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Yes, it's in neutral, but the transaxle is coming off also, so I can check for the possible loose ring nuts, and possibly have it overhauled if necessary. Didn't see any problems when I drained the axle oil, but you never know. Also going to repack the flywheel, and anything else... now's the time! Also, thanks for the caution... Car is rock solid on the stands... I didn't start removing the subframe until I was sure it was.

 

Thanks! I didn't mention, and it may be hard to see in the pics, but there are actually two schedule 80 pipes (1 front stands, 1 back stands) that support the car at the normal outer frame jacking points. I fabbed up some channels that I welded to the ends of the pipes, and welded some bar runners on the bottom of the pipes to keep them in place. The pipes are really strong.. and deflect very little. I used pipe 'cause that's what I had on hand. This was a lot of time to set up, but I'm set now, if I need to do it again
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Actually, the other side of the garage has my Lamborghini 400GT 2+2 on solid pipe stands, about at the same height, plus Lambo parts underneath! My next project, after this gets done
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I wouldn't put it past him!

 

Hi again Brothers - I posted a separate thread when I checked my transaxle (all looked good!), but plan to just update this thread as needed.

I rec'd some seals and my flywheel ringnut socket today from Ricambi (thanks Daniel). So I'm ready to start on my throwout bearing rebuild and clutch repack, etc. I do plan to use an impact gun as needed for removal of anything tight, I also decided to make a ring gear "stop" to help with reassembly and torquing (see attached pic).

I have a dual-disk clutch. Question: Throwout bearing seems OK, but since these may be unobtanium, should I try to regrease the bearing? I'm thinking of using a zerk needle adapter that I purchased long ago. Has a needle for insertion into a sealed bearing, and then a zerk fitting on the other end, for use with a lube gun. Never used one, so any advice or experience with these? If I use it, what grease should I use?

Also, in view of expense of Kluber grease, I've spent a lot of time searching the Kluber website. Unfortunately, the website is very cumbersome to use, but many greases have spec sheets on the website. Some, however, are not there, and require contacting Kluber for info. I did manage to find several white greases called Noxlub, and one that says it has "Good Damping" properties (spec. sheet attached). They do make a lot of white or whitish greases, and I won't use this unless I'm sure it matches what can be purchased directly. Any comments? Anyone have a can of Kluber that has any Kluber numbers on it that match up with this?

I'm sure Daniel and others are just passing along the high costs they pay for Kluber grease, but it's tough to swallow that price for just a pint of grease (since that's about all I will use anytime soon).

Thanks.
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I ended up not having to remove my transaxle, so just need to finish the clutch, flywheel, and halfshafts at the rear of my 348. My clutch ended up being toast, and I got a smokin' quote on a new one (AP dual disk) from FERRPARTS .... (you were right 285 - they seem like good folks! I'll post pics when I get the clutch.

I have the flywheel disassembled and almost cleaned up, and am waiting for the Kluber grease from Daniel at Ricambi. I made punch marks to keep relative positions on exterior covers, but didn't on the spring carrier plates (or whatever they're called) inside. It seemed that they were pretty free to move around, but now I'm wondering if they also were supposed to have a specific position on reassembly. The steel hub has a punch mark on it, but I can't find any other marks on the interior aluminum cases anywhere to match up. Any brothers have experience with position of this interior assembly?

Also, as you can see in pics, the hub has permanent marker writing inside, and there is also the same writing on the opposite case on the outside. The WSM mentions to position the clutch mark of maximum imbalance (blue color marked on outside) opposite the flywheel "point of maximum imbalance" . Anybody know where this flywheel point is marked? What have others found?

Thanks for the help.
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