348 subwoofer stereo install

Nice setup! I am afraid of doing that much interior modificatiopn to my 348. I am thinking of changing the head unit / speakers and adding a small amp. Where is the passenger ear protection compartment? How much power is your amp drawing?

BT

 

The 348 has a radio? REALLY???

 

Nice work, just fitting some Jl xr 6" in the doors but i have not cut the door will post pics.

Where have you put the tweter !!!

 

That setup rocks!

 

I ordered the Earthquate sms 8" speaker over the weekend.

Do you have a template that you used to make the sws kick panel?

What did you make it out of, fiberglass + plywood?

 

I made a duplicate of the passenger kick panel last night so I don't have to cut into the original panel and carpeting. I used fibreglass matting and resin and poured it into a plywood template. Turned out pretty decent I think.

Will post pics later.

 

A fantastic idea and install...My 15" is still sitting in my front trunk...Of course I have to get the car back on the road to make it worthwhile

 

Nice stuff! Can't wait to see it. I just picked up the car from cinema and you are right, I went with the super expensive MB Quarts in the doors and a JL amp. I'll post pics the local thread.

I definitely wish it had a bit more bass surely. Congrats on yours!

 

Driving back from Boca last night I tried turning up the White Stripes on the factory stereo.
Not good.
Must do something.
What type of noise filter do you use to avoid the engine sound scoming through the amp? I have never really addressed this on any of my installs and my wife hates every one of them! I am planning on doing the 348 this summer and don't want an excuse why she doesn't suddenly like the 348.
BT

 

Don't really have an issue with engine noise through the amp. I connected my amps and radio to the + battery connection at the front fuse block. Make sure you use good quality RCA leads.

 

Or you can also upgrade the (-)(ground) from your battery to chassis to 0 gauge. This tends to help as well. Especially if you are running more than one amplifier. You should have equal pos/neg size cable. Sometimes its a crapshoot as to what is causing the noise. Installers nightmare.

 

95% of the time, engine noise through your speakers comes from your RCA's being too close to a power wire...Just as Darron said, make sure that your RCA's aren't near any Positive wires...

RCA's are low level inputs, thus they are easily affected by the power that the positive cables in your car create. Make sure to get ones that are shielded, RCA's that are made for home audio are NOT shielded so don't use them in your car.

Other then that, make sure your amp and head unit are grounded properly.

 

Thanks for the advice on the engine noise in the stereo. I will use all of it. I am going to be ordering the equipment this weekend I think. After I finish the new garage I can try to re-wire the other stereo I installed in the Tacoma. I am going to do a similar enclosure as MDshore did for the sub. Good sound by the time the good weather gets here, that's the goal!

BT

 

"but I think I very well could have used a sealed enclosure as the bass travel on the shallow sub is minimal excursion"

You don't always need an enclosure for a driver. What you do need to know is what the audio industry refers to as Thiele-Small parameters.

Every driver has mechanical and electrical properties which collectively amount to what is the driver total "Q"=Thiele-Small parameters.

A driver suitable for an enclosure has a high electrical Q, low mechanical Q, and very low free air resonance. It depends upon the air within the cabinet to assist in its control. Q total is usually .36-.45

Drivers for ported enclosures have low electrical Q, high mechanical Q, and higher free air resonance. Q total is usually .50 or above.

Drivers with high mechanical Q's will work in a "free air" situation.

So, it is important to know the driver's parameters prior to using it.

If your sub is not producing well it can be:

a) that its Q is that for a sealed enclosure
b) it is very inefficient
c) both of the above.

When space is limited, sealed enclosures are difficult. So, you want a driver with higher mechanical Q properties and higher free air resonance.

If you need help PM or e-mail me, and I'll help you out.

 

Haha no, that setup up THUMPS !!!!!

 

Is there an amp / sub setup that you would recommend for the type of install MDshore348 did? I want to do this once, hopefully.

BT

 

Unfortunately I don't know the 348 body well enough yet to make 100% suggestions although I like what these folks did to place the sub. I'll have to examine that more.

I like using smaller and multiple drivers for subs wherever possible due to higher efficiency and higher power handling. I believe MDshore used an 8" driver, and I might have a very good one for the application with a 3" voice coil that does not need an enclosure!

I am researching the Soundstream amps with the local rep, because they offer a 4 channel model 2 of which channels can be bridged for the mono sub, and they have an electronic crossover built-in.

I have a full system designed for the 360/430 that will use two (2) 6 1/2" woofers in the sub, door replacement drivers, and the Soundstream amp I mentioned.

You can see part of this at: http://www.dynamtechgroup.com/carAudio.htm

Some of this will be aplicable to the 348 as well, and it's possible I will design a system just for the 348 as well. The 360/430 system is more involved due to the manner in which Ferrari has the vehicle wired and due to the fact that the door cabling is now through snap-off connectors! Can't pull new wiring through!

You can e-mail me for more info at [email protected]. Happy to help you out.