Where Do I Get A New O2 Sensor?

have you bench tested or cleaned it?

Use a high impedance DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems.

ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated, show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation skills and save you money in the future. There is almost always *no* benefit in replacing an oxygen sensor that will pass the test in the first line of this paragraph.


to clean, Everyone seems to use CRC brand "QD electronic cleaner" for both O2 sensors and airflow sensors. it is a special cleaner that has NO RESIDUE in it so when it dries it dries 100% clean with no oils or etc as if it were brand new. For the airflow sensors they sprayed it from a safe distance (as far away as possible) in order to be careful b/c of the sensitive electronics (you don't want to powerblast the sensor close range). The O2 sensor they sprayed the outsides and insides with the same cleaner and saw great results: better gas mileage, better running car, all check engine / warning lights went away.

 

I bought the one for my 328 at NAPA. They're in the parts book. You might check there for your 308.

The Ferrari specific piece is expensive, the generic splice-it-in is cheap.

 

I'm not a fan of the splice it in option due to the connection increasing the resistance of the signal, that in turn can mess the signal up to the ECU. you'd need a good soldered connection that was light enough to hold the splice but not to heavy on the silver.

 

Hi Tommy -- after shopping around (in this case, Rutlands and Ricambi were high) I bought one from www.AutoPartsWarehouse.com for $130 a few weeks ago.

Buy one for a 1989 SAAB 9000 16-valve p/n C5010-35496 -- it's the correct true BOSCH O2 sensor #13009 for our cars and an easier way to search on sites that don't list Ferraris.

If you DO decide to do the splice it thing, check out
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=136782647&postcount=122 for p/n choices.

 

$130 from AutoPartsWarehouse -- the one I quoted that I got *IS* the correct Bosch sensor for our cars with the correct connectors and wire length! You'll get the exact same part in the exact same box from Rutlands, FoA or Ricambi. I just made a point of finding out what OTHER cars (like the SAAB) use the same exact Bosch O2 sensor that our cars do.

 

Hi Tommy,

If you are still looking for it ....my friend got cat converter http://www.ecatalyticconverter.com/ferrari-converter.html and just arrived last week. He got pretty nice reinstallation with the help of the mechanic. He found out that reinstalling cat is so easy to do. And I think there's a features also regarding the sensors. Try it there and hope it helps . Goodluck!

 

I know that I'm talking to a moderator here, but I cannot stand when you guys (in a generic sense) do this. (I'm saying this with love an affection mind you) You give a part number and a website. Going to the website, the part number 35496 is blower motors. The part number C5010 does not exist, and the part number C5010-35496 also does not exist. When I go to the Saab page and put in the car's information, I get about 9 or 10 choices. Ugh. Where did you get your number and why doesn't the website you refer us to have it?

Andrew

 

Just FYI after you drive yours another 100K, NAPA has the same part, about the same price-at least for my 328(same part I think). I did a lot of searching for one and that seems like the best price you could get for a direct plug in part.

Jeff

 

AS far as splice in sensors go, you probably have a lot of latitude, mid 80's cars had alot simpler ECU's than todays OBD II cars