Hi, how do i adjust the headlights? I put all back together and now i pulled the headlight down by hand. When i switch the light on the headlight goes quick all up but then goes right down to 50% open. When i switch the light off nothing happens. Then when i move the headlight out of the 50% position the headlight again moves when i switch on or off the light. Why is it always going into th 50% position and remains there?
I don't know because it doesn't stop at full opening. But even if its not adjusted right the headlight motor has to move it down when i turn of the light. But it doesn't. Only one time and after that i can switch on and off as often i like the motor doesn't react till i change the headlight position with the turnknob on the motor. After i moved it a bit then it reacts one time. Its like it is trapped in the middle position i dont know why.
24 and 15 aren't mated to the right holes, perhaps? Each lift motor itself employs a cam system and two diodes to sense how far to rotate the cam, clockwise or counterclockwise.
My headlightmotor is without the rubber housing 24,25. It just reacts wired. I turn light on it raises to maximum fully open ! and then right after that goes down until half closed. The light is on... Then i turn of the light and nothing happens .. only the light is off. Then i turn on the light. ... light is on but the headlight doesn't move. So now i turn the headlight down by hand do it again the same as befor. Then i doesn't switch the light of light is still on and i move the headlight to full open by hand. Then i turn off the light to see what happens then ... and then it does the same goes fully up and then down to half closed ... What can i do? Or maybe the two headlight syncronise each other?? Because i don't have the second one installed. What happens if you change the position of the headlight by hand a bit open f.e. does the headlight then automaticly goes down to full closed when you turn on the ignition? Or what happens then?
If the steering column light switch is in the off position then an attempt to manually raise a good lifting light motor will cause the motor to electrically activate, and then raise all the way up...then lower itself (because it's supposed to be "off" per the steering column stalk). If it's only going halfway back down, then perhaps it is catching on something. One Test: With the stalk in the **ON** position, manually try to raise each offending motor by turning the knob on top of the motor. Watch your fingers! If it first raises and then lowers automatically, but will not stay in the up position at least we know the motor is working, all-be-it not properly. ...if not, then pull the offending motor. The problem is probably with the motor itself or the diodes per such a test.
You can test the two position sensor diodes with a DMM. With car battery disconnected, apply the DMM leads to the Black and Grey terminals. You should get a high resistance reading with the leads one way, then switch the leads from black to grey and grey to black and you should get a low resistance reading the other way. Two high readings or two low readings (i.e. leads used in both positions) would be a bad diode. a good diode will have one low resistance reading and one high resistance reading. Repeat for Black to Black/Green terminals. Common diode 1N4001 is an acceptable replacement. Oh, and the connector rod between light and motor should be a Fiat X/19 part.
Did you have the headlight motor taken apart, or just removed from the car? I think that perhaps your linkage is "clocked" wrong on the shaft coming out of the headlight motor. If you look at the picture, this is looking straight down at the linkage on the passenger side headlight, with the headlight DOWN. The bent arm is supposed to be pointed almost straight backwards when the headlight is down and the motor is in the "closed" position. If that arm is in any other position, then the headlight will not be closed when the motor shuts off, and the headlight will not stay open when the motor goes to the "open" position. How does yours look? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just to make ND's diagram a bit clearer, see how the bent linkage arm should fit onto the headlight motor shaft? It should be tilted down slightly at the back, when the headlight is DOWN and the motor is in the OFF position. So - disconnect the arm from the motor shaft, and turn the headlights on, then off, so the motor cycles. Then reconnect the arm to the shaft over the splines, with the back end tilted slightly down, and retighten the nut #14. It should look like my photograph or this diagram. Then hopefully the headlight will open and close normally! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes i had this part apart. I can change the position that it fully opens when i turn on the light. But why does it freeze after one move? If the position of the linkage is wrong the position of the headlight will be wrong ok f.e. like my situation i turn on the light and the headlight goes all up and then someway down because the linkage is wrong. But! when i turn off the light it must move the same way backwards or atleast anything but it does nothing. Why? Even if i dont connect a headlight to it the motor must work because he cant see if something is connected. Ok i first adjust it that it fully opens and then i will see how i get it to close.
The lift motor itself employs a cam system and two diodes to sense how far to rotate the cam, clockwise or counterclockwise. The cam has a gear attached that moves the #6 rod to raise or lower the lights. The two diodes are external to the motor, but under the tight black rubber cover. I would think that either you have a bad diode in one or both of the two motors, or else as Miltonian illustrated the #6 rod is 180 degrees out of phase with the lever for each motor. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Maybe I'm assuming too much, but I assume that Samy installed the bent rod onto the motor shaft in the wrong position. It appears to me that the rod and the shaft are splined, not keyed or indexed, so the rod can be installed onto the shaft in almost any position. The cams/gears/diodes inside the motor tell the motor when to start and stop running. They can't tell if the linkage is correctly attached. Hence, instead of operating from full closed to full open, the motor is operating from partially closed to partially open - the same number of turns on the shaft, the same throw on the linkage - just not clocked properly. If I'm wrong, hell, I'll be the first to admit it! Edit: Some day I'm going to have to learn how to add captions and arrows onto pictures like you do, ND. I like that!
Yes you are all right the rod is installed in the wrong position. But that is not my problem. That explains why the headlight moves all up and then right after that down. But it doesn't explain that the headlight doesn't react anymore after that ! I installed the other headlight today and it behaves totaly different ! When i connected the cables it moves directly to the off position by itself! Then when i turn on the light it moves up and when i turn down the light it moves down. So there is all normal. The other headlight wich makes problems doesn't make anything when i connect the cables even when i put it between open and closed nothing. Normaly it must move to the closed position like the other but it won't. But when i turn the light on then it moves so the motor itself can't be defect. Maybe its something with the diodes nodoubt mentioned. Where can i find them. The headlightliftingmotor wich makes problems doesn't came with the black rubber housing maybe someone has already tried to find the problem or when the diodes are outside of the motor maybe there is a broken wire after the previeus owner had removed the black housing.... Did you have a picture of the diodes?
The diodes are small cylinders, usually black with a white or silver stripe at one end, each with two metal leads. But...since you've got one headlamp that's working (?), why not first take voltage measurements on both lamp motor connectors on both sides with the steering stalk first in the lights OFF position and then re-take the measurements in the lights ON position. A difference between the working side from that of the non-working side might point you in the right direction. Ditto for swapping the lifter motor relays. If the problem switches sides, then BINGO you've found the culprit.
I think one of the diodes in the motor is gone. But i don't know if there is a way to open the housing. It look like the housing is out of one part. I could put the 12v wire of the motor to a switch and open and close the Headlight by myself hehe
So now i opened it up. To get it open it was as funny as get all old grease out of the flywheel ... but its opened and i know why it won't work. One of the connectors is broken. And there are no diods in it at all. Just plain metal/bronce connectors. Three connectors and one is broken. Now i got a problem maybe i can weld or solder something on it.
He can't know it out of the diodes .. only if they where photo diodes but the schematic view of them is different. The diodes are somewhere else not inside the motor. They only prevent that the 12v going in on one wire coming from the switch relais going out to the other contect of the switch relais. And only go out on the third wire wich goes to another relais wich put 12v onto the motor. The switchrelais is controled by the lightswitch. If the light is off the switchrelais put 12v onto one of the two wires with the diodes inside the motor is a plate with some holes in it if the conntact with the 12v is on the metal surface the 12v go out to the second relais and the motor starts until the contact is over a hole in the plate. Thats why the headlight normaly goes to the closed position by itself when the powercables are connected. When you put on the light the switchrelais puts 12v on the other cable with the diode and there another contact is on the metalpart and the motor runs until this contact is over a hole on the plate. One of the three contacts was damaged so my headlight only opens and never closes. Also the metal plate was damaged from rust. I weldet the plate and soldered something onto the broken contact now it has contact. But i don't know if it lasts long because the material soldered on is softer then the one befor i think... but i will see.
Can someone please explain this to me? My RH headlight keeps going up and down when I switch the light on (will not stop), and then stops in the closed position after winking for like 5-6 cycles... The motor has 3 wires: a black 2 prong, 2 white 2 prong, and a green spade connector wire... Which wires should I test for the resistance (to check diodes) And which wires can I apply 12v to check operation of the motor (start / stop should be 180 degree turn)... Thanks!
I believe the headlight motor circuit should look something like this: Image Unavailable, Please Login The motor wiring is on the green spade connector "C" and on the white 2 prong connector with the exposed pin (on the headlight side of the white plug). The other three wires are for up/down control. I don't know why the motor stops winking after 5~6 cycles. To do diode tests, you'll have to turn off the battery. In the DOWN position you should have continuity on the green and green/black wires, putting the ohmmeter red probe on the green/black wire i.e. the unexposed pin of the white 2 prong plug). If you manually wind the motor to somewhere near up, you should have this continuity until (almost) up. If you reverse the ohmmeter connections when the headlight is fully down and to almost up, you should have no continuity (because of the diode). At fully up position, you should have continuity between the black wire (unexposed pin on the black 2 prong plug) and the grey wire (exposed pin on the black 2 prong plug). Put the ohmmeter red probe on the exposed pin of the black 2 prong plug. If you keep winding the knob in the same direction, you should have continuity until the headlight is almost fully down. Again, if you reverse the ohmmeter probes, you should have no continuity. It's probably not a relay issue, but maybe you could first try swapping relay D ("E13" -Headlight Motor Control) with B ("E6" - LH Headlight Motor). I would observe the direction of the knob (clockwise or anticlockwise) during a powered test to see what is normal... and duplicate this during your ohmmeter tests.
