Hey all, Got 2 of the motor mounts mod'd and in. I pulled the front spacers out to try and tilt the engine more to get the rears out and they fell out . . . which way should they go? . . .see pic. Edit: I'm replacing the fronts also . . . just need to measure the overall height to trim or shim the new ones. Thanks, Sean Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I was all set to make 'em and came across some that I could modify! Prothane '05-06 Mustang motor mounts. Just had to machine new bolt hole pattern, trim the rear ones to length, and make a spacer for the front ones. Oh yeah, and tap the hole to the large metric thread the stock mount has. Fired her up yesterday and went for a little test drive. There is slightly more vibration at idle and you can really feel the starter throw. The shifting also seems more positive. Just cruising I really can't tell much difference though. I fellow chatter told me had replaced his with Ferrari mounts and his engine still moved a bunch so that's why I wanted to go the urethane route. The cost . . . . sweet. They're usually approx $150/pr but Summit has the black ones (vs red I guess) for approx $100/pr. Back on my nitrous installation now. Sean
You just slotted the original holes? Me likey.... You could spray them flat black and no one would ever notice.......
Is there some way to open up the stock mounts and replace the "guts" with urethane? Interesting modification, I like it. The blower and turbo guys should probably jump on this.
I like it just to get my headers up from the frame rails! LOL! Plus, anything that increases ride harshness and vibration is a good thing, IMO.....
Exactamundo . . . I think there was about 1/4" difference in location from the original holes . . . a die grinder or dremel could do that part. You'll need to machine approx .5" (I wrote down the actual numbers) off 'em for the rear mounts . . . not so easy with a die grinder I made spacers .300" thick for the front mounts . . . a stack of washers would work but when your car is only 20' from a lathe that you actually know how to operate well it's hard to do that.
If you ever need work most of the "retail" repair shops would luv a guy like you who can make do with the tool selection at hand.
Thanks . . . I'll gladly provide all the spec's for these things since they're off the shelf parts with minor mod's. Although, I could act like I've been designing and testing them for the past 2 years and am finally making 'em available and charge double what the F parts are 'cause there about 2 lbs lighter a piece! Nah . . . now my fuel injection and dry sump parts . . . that's a different story.
If all you have is a hammer, the whole world looks like a nail....... I may go this way, on my three cars though....thanks for the info....
Sean, Again, you are the man. (My Euro Mondi Headers are sitting on the frame rails also.) I'm gonna order these today! As for the 0.5" trimming,,, ? you could have machined that urethane on your Bridgeport Vert. Mill,,, comes out nice,,, use a nice fly cutter... And, thanks! I would have paid $ 200.00 each for those $ 50.00 parts. Ciao, Edwardo
I didn't need to machine the urethane . . . you take the meat off the aluminum. There's plenty of thread still left. I milled the first one and then realized I wanted to tap the whole out bigger to the stock size so did the other three on the lathe FYI. Trimming .5" might of been .025-.05" too much . . . I was in a hurry and didn't measure the original height real accurate initially 'cause I just couldn't wait to put 'em in! If you want I'll measure the stock mt heights if you don't have any. You can go ahead and send a check anyway if you want Sean
Sean, Great inspiration!!! Good question Paul. I'll be replacing my motor mounts in the next month or so. Will open up one of the old ones to see if I can cast a new polyurethane mount cost effectively. Just boght a new OEM set, but maybe I want to sell them & go to "Sean's Dynamic Motor Mounts". Sean, are these the ones you used: Prothane Bullet Engine Mounts # PTP-6-505-BL BTW, the price is now back up to $159/set. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm curious, why did you choose these particular mounts? Is there some data indicating they are the proper mounts for this car or is it considered a "given" that on these cars any urethane mount is suitable if it can be made to fit?
I recall another chatter rebuilding the stock motor mounts . .. he posted a pic of the product he used. Regarding why I chose to use these, the "data" is I was having shifting issues during cornering and was going to go completely rigid (what's on my P race car) but these are a good compromise . . my stock mounts didn't appear to be broken but the engine seemed to have quite a bit of movement . . . didn't want to spend $1k plus on mounts and have the same issue. Cheers, Sean
Has anyone tried ridgid mounting? I'm curious how bad it would be, like if it would buzz the fillings out of your teeth.
But a Formula Ford is a 4 cylinder, I know they buzz really bad. Plus, isnt the engine in those a stressed member? I was just curious how bad the flat crank V-8 would.
I was just trying to make a point, it's still going to a pain (NVH) no matter what engine with solid mounts on the street. You really don't want a ridged mounted engine in a street car unless it's apart time car. I was going to put solid mounts in my Porsche 911 but changed my mine I now have the WEVO Semi-Solid Engine Mounts. This car is street and track. Engines now are semi stressed going back to the Lola 440 I believe, early FFords were not. Our current Van Diemen FF2000 is semi stressed.
I would gladly trade a little increase in NVH for easier and more precise shifting. And for sure ferrari didn't intend for the exhaust heat shielding to rest on the frame on one side and allow the shifter linkage to slice through the exhaust shielding. So, does a .5 inch shave job on the summit poly mounts do the trick??? dying to know, chris
I'll take some pics and reveiw what I posted tomorrow ... no use me analyzing right now . But they have worked with whatever I posted to this day. And I have totally solid/rigid mounts on my 911 ... no more talk of rigidity/stiffness/hardness allowed now . cheers
I was just looking at this and wonder if these could be made to fit a 246 Dino? Mine are shot and I was thinking of replacing them & then I saw this thread. I might just spend the 150 bucks just to see. My motor is out of my car and on a testing stand so it wouldn't be too tough to figure. If you all have any opinions here please let me know.