The old cast iron ones right? Yes, I've not heard of them blowing their butts out either. The new ones? Yes! I think Peter and I discussed one on Friday too. Thankfully for folks who run the new aluminum TO bearing, there is a Hill Engineering alternative that is far superior (and less money) than the Ferrari junk. http://ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?cPath=600_531&products_id=261280 For reference, the OEM one costs $610.00 -d
Here is a better angle on the single disk clutch so you can see the part number. This is from my 91 model that "Sue" mentioned. This was the upgrade from the dual disk model. The previous owner put many hard track miles on the car and it did fine. I'm not sure if this is the same clutch he used, due to him having done a recent rebuild, but I think it is the same. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sorry, but I still havent recovered from your physics tutorial on oil pressure and filter problems, to take you seriously yet. I need more time, it's a great healer.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but very interested in what "Ferrarfixer" had to say about the overthrowing of the 348 clutch, has anything more come to light? If not, just to save me pulling my slave and master cylinder to bits I was wondering if you can recall dimensions of these and how much you and your engineer calculate/estimate the overthrow to be? Been thinking of a few options if an "off the shelf" master cylinder is not available. 1. Change the mounting position for the push shaft on the clutch pedal. 2. Have an over sized stainless repair sleeve fitted to the cylinder and reduce rubbers etc to suit. 3. Fit a larger bump stop in the base of the master cylinder if one is fitted, or if not put one in. 4. Some type of mechanical stop on the pedal itself. Items 1&2 should increase the smoothness and control over clutch take up; items 3&4 would just be a safety measure. Not sure if any of these measures are practical or possible. But just because something is impossible, is not a good reason not to do it
That theory was really only supported by one person and he is no longer here. I would not modify a car to cure a nonexitant problem.
I can give you his phone number if you like so you can talk to him about it? I talked to him about years ago and I wasnt really convinced either. Overthrowing the clutch was what was breaking clutch pressure plate fingers I think he said. I have the complete service record for my car from brand new. My car has had major services every 3 years at Ferrari dealers, and they replaced both clutch plates EVERY major service. Soooooo..........my car had many clutch plates, but I didnt see anywhere in the paperwork where it said they replaced the pressure plate or slave body/throwout bearing. I think my pressure plate was original (16 yrs old) when it broke pressure plate fingers. So I put it down to wear and tear/fatigue over 16 yrs, not an overthrown clutch. New race clutch and pressure plate in there now. Hopefully the pressure plate lasts another 16 yrs!
thanks guys, if it has been found to not be a "non-unanimous" problem I wont worry about it. I have plenty of other things at the moment that "are" problems to work on...... Thanks again.
It is quite easy to reduce the volume of the MC by simply getting it sleeved to the desired diameter, but one would have to determine first if there is indeed too much travel on the system. Get the specs from the manufacturer of the clutch, the volumes of master and slave and do the sum. Somehow I doubt very much that the designers got it wrong and the fault comes to light 17 years after, it may have more to do with the way the clutch is used?
