BT , I agree with you its a great idea but it dont costs much to make it work.. Its fine with me if someone makes a few pounds ...but if anybody only wants to share their idea's if they get paid afterwards it would have bin very quit here on ferrarichat... .. Luuk
I'm more than happy to pay for his black box. I don't care what's inside. He did the research, he manufactured the boxes, I'll pay. Honestly, I really don't think his price is too high at all. For me, about $100/ea would be reasonable. My time is worth something, and I'd rather just have a plug-n-play solution than mess around with my windows. -Daniel
If the approach would have bin I have a great idea this is how it works and if you want me to I can build them for you.. Then it fitted at ferrarichat just fine Its not about the price.. I would have bought it myself the following second even if they cost $100,- If you build something witch you want to sell then you have to use and not abuse the available channels.. Luuk
Sorry Luuk if I offended you. I didn't mean to rub you up the wrong way. I am more than happy for you or anybody to say and do what you like. as you say this is what forums are about. I was just not liking the references to the price comparison. Hope your version works like mine does, my circuit is slightly different to yours. I need to start a new thread about my ABS. the light is on all the time now and the fault code is 21. HELP!!
Both boxes installed. Super easy install, remove the 2 lower door panels (3 phillips screws & gently prise out the 2 panels- top leather part had 4 push holders, carpeted section had 3) remove speaker, reach in & you will feel the 2 sets of AMP connection holders for the window motor. Follow instructions- takes about 15 minutes a door. Only thing I deviated on was that I used Permatex's black RTV adhesive silicone caulk on the bottom of box to fasten it to base of door. It slides in speaker hole & rests next to the metal block in center of door. I did as mentioned where you operate window up & down before you fasten the ground connection...if you operate the window up & touch the wire to the ground area by bolt, you will both hear & see the motor speed up. As most know as voltage drops- the stress on the window motor increases, this will actually help the window motor run cooler from avoiding a voltage drop condition. Can think of no reason not to install this, it makes the window motors run back efficiently. For the record I have already done the connection repair of the modular door connectors (prior to ordering these), my connections there are satisfactory. This just solves what I imagine is a typical fault in everyones 348. Chris
Ouch! Not a good code. 21 means a main ABS valve or connection failure. http://webpages.charter.net/aircover/348/1994Ferrari348Spider.html#ABSCodes
Ah, the 348 Brotherhood...we not only help ourselves, we also help our 355, 328, 308, and Mondial siblings!
Continuing with my fitment of Frazers kits. I did the LH side window today. If you remember Frazer's vid where his window struggles to get to the top and when he go's down, the window motor struggles again at the top. Well, my LH window was like that, but 20 times worse. I timed it before i fitted the kit. Engine off, it took 18 seconds to go down and 26 seconds to go back up(barely makes it). I wired in the box, shortening the wires and earth similar to the RH side. I left the earth wire off for now, to do the 'circuit' test Frazer does in his video. I started taking the window down, started struggling as it does, but when i put the box in circuit, it shot the window down like a lightening bolt! SUCCESS! When i took the window up with the box wired in, the window powered all the way to the top without any hassle. The window motor is getting a full hit of battery juice now(or close to)! I timed it again with the engine off, it took 4 seconds to go down now and 5 seconds to go up. Engine running, very similar times! Obviously they have a major voltage drop from the main window switches to the opposite window motor as Frazer did mention. To sum it all up.......... Im very very happy with these kits. Frazer has done all the hard work for us guys building these boxes. Thanks again Frazer, much apprectiated mate!! P.S- Last night my brother opened up this box also. I was unaware until i went over there before and seen it. It was exactly as i thought it would be Frazer. I glued it back together and fitted it. Nice job, thanks again.
Maybe I over reacted a bit Its okay with me I wasnt completely fair about the price a few parts dont make a working cirquit You did a great job and brought a annoying problem to history. Thanks!! Luuk
... mine are stuck at the Post Office, and I'll pick them up tomorrow. I have the same speeds as experienced by Pap, and I'm very very anxious to have the windows working quickly!!
sacrilege !! something cheap and works ... and worse ... for a Ferrari !!! what will the world come to next !!!????? hehe.
I was looking forward to your second update....thanks! Can you tell me what the effect has been on the window's reluctance to raise that final 1/4"? Thanks! Wes
It corrects it. Buy a set & when you do install remove & touch the new ground as you operate the window switch....you can hear the difference as well as see. Window closes completely no last second lag anymore.. Chris
Mine came today! I will be installing tonight once the little monster goes to sleep. Did I type that? I mean once my lovely son goes to sleep.
Hello Wes. As just mentioned by chrmer3, my window powers straight up now, all the way to the top without any issues. Im very very happy with these kits. Buy yourself some mate, you wont be disappointed by them. Cheers.
Has anyone tried this on a non 348...My TR is just as bad, and I am sure wired very similar. Would love to solve this problem.
[size=+3]HOLY FAST WINDOW, BATMAN![/size] Despite doing a half-baked job (shortened the wires, used wire nuts and electrical tape instead of proper solder, didn't sticky-tape the unit down) My results are as follows: Before the module: Passenger side window, engine off. Using the drivers side switch before the module: down = 11 seconds. Up = 25+++ seconds, and never made it to the top without being "pulled" by hand" Using the passenger side switch before the module: down = 10 seconds. Up = 20+++ seconds, and never made it to the top without being "pulled" by hand" After the module: Passenger side window, engine off. Using the drivers side switch before the module: down = 6 seconds. Up = 14 seconds, completely up and sealed. Using the passenger side switch before the module: down = 6 seconds. Up = 13-14 seconds, completely up and sealed. All in all, a massive improvement in speed! I can't believe I loaned one of these units to ferrarioldman to test on a 308 today. I want it back! I want to now fix my drivers window too. Cheers to bric-a-brac-jack!! Job well done!!
I'll be calling Sport Auto later this week to see how it worked on the 308. If it works, I'm getting a set for the 328!
14 SECONDS!! That's an age.. Here's a copy of a post I made a while ago about the door connector and additional relays: "I agree with these guys, that size AMP connector is simply not suitable for the job - even when clean (I have checked the data sheets). I measured the voltage reaching the motor @ around 8V (engine off) even after cleaning the pins. When the wires for the lock solenoid broke off I gave up messing with it and bypassed. I'ts a time consuming job though. I spent 4hrs on one door and am no stranger to this type of job. With the connector wired through there was 10.5V at the motor (engine off, drivers LHD door) and the window was plenty fast enough. Adding a couple of ground switching relays direct to the door increased this to 11V, but I can't say I noticed any difference in speed (5% is tough to spot I suppose). There is a difference in how LHD/RHD is wired though - the relays may help a RHD more." For the record my window takes 4 seconds to go up, with the engine off (connector wired through with 2.5mm cable). Maybe 4.5 seconds without relays - could really see a difference. I still believe the real villian of the piece here is the door connector.
Compared to what I had before, it's a massive improvement. Before the box, my window NEVER got to the top of the track. Now, it closes perfectly.
Good to hear positive results there mate. My LH side suffered the same "pulling up by hand" crap. Now its fast and fantastic. Both of mine are still alot faster than yours though. Still very very happy with the kits.