Need Electrical help. Car Just Died Electrical System Completely DeadDead?

To check it, you'd need a multimeter. You can buy those at Radio Shack, and they should have basic instructions on how to measure voltage, current, resistance, and continuity.

To check a switch, you just make a table of which pins have continuity between them in each of the positions. Most ignition switches will switch voltage to other pins during different positions. Your switch seems to have the standard markings. Pin 30 would be your common, 15 is ignition on, and 50 is start. You'll likely have multiple pins for the 30 and 15 position. (For my 328, it also shows "P" and "5" positions on the switch, but the wiring diagram doesn't show them connecting to anything. The key warning switch is a separate switch from the rotating switch, as Peter said.)

Think of electronics like plumbing -- plus is the water main, minus is the drain, and a switch is like a valve. The load (lamps, radios, solenoids, etc), are like water wheels -- they work only when the current (water) is flowing. Except unlike water pipes, if the drain is disconnected, the water stops coming in. (Maybe think of a battery as a water recycling plant.) There's nothing magical about car wiring -- it's all basic current circuits. (It only seems like magic when you start getting into high current circuits, like the starter and headlights, where a tiny resistance can make a big difference.)

But I'm probably not the right reviewer for a basic introduction book. I spent five years in college plus a lot of a misspent youth playing with electricity. And internal combustion. (And practicing my "mad scientist" laugh: Bwa ha ha ha! And yes - I did do the "It's Alive!" thing after finishing the rewiring on my 328. (I've "absorbed a lot of voltage over the years". ))

What's bothering me are the problems you're having with things that shouldn't depend on the ignition switch at all -- clock, door lights, etc.

 

After reading this thread I have to throw my two cents into the discussion. When I purchased my new 1969 FIAT 124 spyder after college I ran into a similar problem. It started with not being able to start the car after it was parked, but after pushing it a few yards it would start. I then was driving on I-80 at night and all of the lights, interior and exterior, radio, etc. would go out for a few seconds and then come back on. Real fun at 85 mph. The dealer told me to bring it in when it happened, but as I told him, that was not possible. One day it happened when I was at the dealers and they dug into it. What they found was one of the wires from the alternator was not crimped properly and it would break contact. When the car was moved it would make contact again and everything would work. When it lost contact all power was lost which is similar to what has been described. Good luck!

 

The rod off the ignition switch locks the column, when "off"....

Glad to hear fastradio has the electric side of this, I had a shop break a key flush and taking the whole assembly out and rebuilding at a Safe Shop was a HUGE project..

I think the part you have sells for over $2K now as salvage, it's not available from Parts Department...

 

Sorry for butting in, I don't know anything about 328's, but does the 328 have a "buss bar" like this behind the fuse panel? This picture is from my 348. I remember many years ago when I worked for Fiat, we used to see frequent electrical shutdowns on X1/9's from loose nuts on these connectors. Very easy to fix. They would allow minimal voltage through (clock, dome light, etc.), but when you tried to start the car, the voltage would drop off to nothing due to the loose connection. Sounds like a possibility.
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I haven't seen anything like that on my 328 (it uses a couple of fat connectors on the relay panel itself), but the problem is on a GT4. I've been drawing parallels to my 328 because I'm more familiar with the one I've been into the wiring on.

I gather the "four way connector" on the GT4 is the main power "bus".

 

No, thank you for posting the successful results with info (that is the full, proper part number?) on the part and where to get it...

 

I noticed your original switch had six terminals on the back and this new one has seven. Does it still work if you hook up the wires to their appropriate, originally located terminals and leave the middle one bare?...

 

The odd thing is that the new part is labeled 800 040, but if you look up that number on McCann's site, it's listed as a lower radiator hose.

Follow the bouncing part numbers ....

 

This ignition switch module is available at most German parts suppliers..it was used on every MB and BMW from 1970 on..common as fish eggs..$80-$100USD all day long..buy two..you know you'll need to do this again..one more hint..that cute little hex-headed screw on the shaft of the $2000 mechanism..DO NOT break it off as it was designed to be..that will cost you to drill and tap it out..also the key blank is an"ilco"(RE61F) or at a GOOD locksmith.."Taylor" NE7(U.S.A.)..$5USD..personally..I totally bi-passed the entire ignition switch and installed a more covneniently placed American made ignition switch without any cosmetic alterations.."Lights first time every time" like the Ronson lighter and the Sherman tank..and I can still lock the steering column..I truly hope this helps all of you out there with this "problem"..remember..Ferrari builds NOTHING on these cars execept the engine and transmission castings..from there it's off to the international parts bin.."Original"... Bah..When pigs fly...Enjoy..Jacques