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#1
11-02-2009, 11:01 PM
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starting a testarossa
had my 89 testarossa for five years , live in calif it's always started on the 4 or 5 key turns never the frist key turn .during the years i have changed the starter the fuel accumutors and all required maint performed no help it takes 4 to five turns of the key and it starts each time on the money , also the owner before me said that just the way the car is please help if anyone esle had this problem it does not matter if it's hot or cold . thank you jim from calif
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#2
11-03-2009, 09:42 AM
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or You put the key in Pos III, the starter motor engages and turns the engine over for a few seconds, but never fires until about the 4~5 time of doing that?
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#3
11-03-2009, 11:29 AM
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When starting my 1990 TR, I would turn the key to the "On" position and wait for the fuel pump to begin... then I would wait a few second and crank the ignition. It always fired right up. Are you giving the fuel pump time to come on?
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#4
11-03-2009, 06:29 PM
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testarossa starting problem
get in the car turn the key and car will not start it cranks fine but will not start , i need to do this 4 to 5 times and then it will start up .turn the key until the engine cranks over , it take 4 to 5 times , maybe i am not waiting for the fuel pumps to come on i am turning the key to fast . do you have to wait , please help thank you jim
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#5
11-03-2009, 07:11 PM
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#6
11-03-2009, 09:16 PM
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To begin the investigation, I would suggest that you make some voltage measurements at the white connectors (while plugged in) at the bottom of the fuse-relay panel during the cranking periods when the engine won't start: TEST #1 -- Measure the voltage on the two BL (white/blue) wires in the "y" connector relative to ground. These BL wires are connected to terminal 15a on the back of the starter solenoid. When the starter solenoid is actually operating, this BL wire should be +12V, and it serves many functions to start the engine: 1. it fires the cold start injectors (if the thermo-time switch is cold/closed), 2. it closes the tachometric relay -- which closes the fuel pump relays which run the fuel pumps, and 3. it puts +12V on terminal 24 of the injection ECUs which "tells" the injection ECU to (greatly) increase the EHA current and add more richness to aid engine light-off. TEST #2 -- Measure the voltage on the large P (beige) and PN (beige/black) wires that go to the fuel pumps (relative to ground) to confirm that the fuel pumps are actually running during the cranking events when the engine isn't starting. If you pass Test #1, but fail Test #2 this would be a bad sign for the tachometric relay or maybe the ignition switch itself. TEST #3 -- If you always pass both Test #1 and Test #2 during cranking events when the engine isn't starting, I'd suggest that you unplug one of the injection ECUs and measure the voltage on terminal 24 in the unplugged 25-pin harness connector (i.e., it could be possible for the +12V signal on the BL wire to reach the "y" connector but not reach the injection ECUs). Of course, the engine probably won't start with one injection ECU unplugged, but, as long as the starter is cranking, that's enough to make this test. Just a suggestion for some fairly easy tests that won't get you greasy  , and might provide a clue about the trouble (and your engine starting behavior is certainly abnormal). Let me know your results (even if all seems OK), and I'll try to help read the tea leaves...
Last edited by Steve Magnusson; 11-03-2009 at 09:17 PM.
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#7
11-03-2009, 10:48 PM
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testarossa starting problem .
thank you steve i will try this on friday day off , the person that had the car before me which he had it for 9 years said that's the way it would start on the 4 th key turn with the engine cranking over . what brings you say it might be the ign sw if i may say the key look brand new the car only has 12k on it . i will do all you said and get back to you please . in closing the car should start on the first key turn ! i was t/shooting it and also reading about the tachometer relay , does this have any thing also to do with the tach , sometime the tach will not read correctly when driving the car , it will be lower and up and down doing around 60 to 70 mph and then it will work find for a while. is this tachometer hard to change or get at and what about price please thank you again steve very very helpful
Last edited by jamesrobba; 11-03-2009 at 10:50 PM.
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#8
11-04-2009, 02:15 AM
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Just a note on the tachometer, yes the feed to tachometric relay may be something you end up looking at, but if it turns out that the pickup is OK you may still have issues with the tachometer itself. Though I've had a harder time finding info about TR failures, it seems it's common enough on the 328 and Mondials with the same branding and era. Here's an example thread that gives some links for repairs at the end. I still haven't gotten to mine as I want to check the signal from the ignition to the tach first. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=246801 By the way, if you haven't done it yet, taking off the instrument cluster is a lot less scary than it might seem (though I have yet to separate the tach from the the rest). Unfortunately mine magically worked perfectly once for an entire drive, but for the rest of the time has always read exactly 1/2 of the expected value.
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#9
11-04-2009, 10:13 AM
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There is another test that I think you should try for your starting problem even before any of the prior tests: TEST #0: Measure the voltage on the R (red) wire at the water thermoswitch to confirm/deny if the protection relay is working and supplying +12V to run the KE-Jet injection system. This jpeg describes how to make the test: TR KE-Jetronic Water Thermoswitch +12V Inj ECU power Diag Sheet 6 nr 8.jpg If your protection relay is not working, the EHA currents will be 0 mA which would cause an otherwise properly adjusted US TR to run very weakly/poorly when warm. Almost unfortunately, if the Mechanic (wrongly) tweaks the mixture screws to add richness to improve warm-running, rather than fixing the protection relay, the engine can be made to run fairly well when warm, but every other mode will be poor (starting, cold-running after starting, throttle blip during cold-running, etc.) because the EHA currents will always be at a fixed value of 0 mA (the “normal” average EHA current at sea level during warm-running is 10mA and the injection ECUs increase the EHA currents when they “think” they needs to add richness, like for starting). If you fail Test #0, I wouldn’t even bother with the other tests until you fix the protection relay operation (and you’ll probably need to retweak the mixtures if it is running fairly well now when warm if the protection relay is not working). If you need to fix the protection relay operation, do a search on “TR protection relay” for threads like these: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=179893 http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=229660 that describe how to troubleshoot that gizmo. If you pass Test #0, then go on to the other tests. Good Hunting!
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