My Baby back on the road...

[need4speed]

She's been off the road for 3 years. Long story...working overseas...simple paint job turns into HUGE RUST REPAIR JOB.

Now on her real shake down drive after the mess that was trying to get to Monterey. I noticed a few things that I'd like to hear if other owners experience with their Dinos.

1. The fuel starvation on left turns is worse than last I remember. I just nudge the wheel to the left and the engine starts to stumble. Maybe float adjustment?

2. My exhaust pops alot. Even on a steady throttle. It's like automotive flatulence. A great mechanic buddy of mine says it might be a lean mixture (maybe caused by a vacuum leak) or advanced timing. In any case, he says it could lead to engine damage. Sounds like time for a tune up.

3. The car pulls to the right when braking.

4. The brakes have absolutely no feel at all.

5. The car leans and rolls a lot. Or maybe I'm just not used to this "old school" ride.

Again, she's been sitting for 3 years. So I know there will be a few issues to work out. Anyways, just wanted to hear what others think.

Thanks,

Manny

[raywong]

1. I have left turn stumble too, but not unbearable. There's a recent thread about this.

2. Pops once in a while. Misfires at low rpm.

3. My brake is well balanced, a bit of on/off feel to it tho, nothing compare to my Evo VII.

5. Suspension is ok, of course not nearly as solid as a Evo VII.


Is it hard to installed that passenger side mirror yourself?

[dm_n_stuff]

Ray - Passenger side mirror - skip it, not original, not an option, unless you think it will really help you see more. Best view behind is interior mirror.

Popping exhaust. Mine does that some too. I have a Stebro exhaust that is more free flowing than stock, that seems to be the problem, that and a non stock ignition that will not allow for the correct advance/retard on the timing. We're going to re-jet the carbs and replace the ignition this fall with a modern system. Don't think there's any harm unless you're getting a true backfire.

Stumble. We adjusted the floats on the carbs and that mitigated it. But it's not gonna go away, as you know.

My suspension floats some too. There is a supple feel to the suspension that I think is normal. Having said that, this winter we are replacing all of the suspension components. My care is at 60K miles on all original springs etc.

Brakes pull. Probably a stuck caliper that's not working at all. Check to see what the rotors look like. See if one is smooth and shiny, an indication that it's working, and one is rusty or rougher looking, and indication that it isn't working on that side.

Any car that sits three years should have had all fluids changed, a good tune up, and a thorough inspection to make sure seals etc were in good shape.

I'd make that appointment now, and not drive the car until it's checked. As you know, a major overhaul is very expensive, and you don't want to break something that is stuck or out of adjustment. I hope you didn't run it on three year old gas.

Did the overhaul include brake work? Mine have excellent feel, not like a modern car, but very good. Could be a brake vacuum problem.

Didn't originally catch the 3 yrs. getting fixed notation. Assuming that was mostly cosmetic?

Oh, great looking car, BTW.

[bert308]

I would like to see some pictures of the restoration or repaint process, if you have. It looks great now!

[mal]

With regard to the leaning and roll my car is amazingly flat considering the large profile tyres - so it may worth checking the springs and bushes.

I too have had problems with the pistons sticking on the calipers causing the brakes to bind. But I had put on exchange calipers which now seem OK.

[Tspringer]

I would bet the popping noises, the stumbling turning left are related. Sounds to me like the carbs are just gummed up with varnish. If you allow fuel to evaporate out while it sits for a long period, it can cause the floats, jets, and other stuff to gum up. Try taking the carb tops off, cleaning all the jets and the float chamber with carb cleaner and then run some marvel mystery oil through the gas.

The brakes need to be bled. That and just driving the car should correct that problem. You probably have a caliper sticking, new fluid and use should fix it.

You "may" have a shock sticking or with blown seals. That can happen when a car sits for an extended period. It it tends to wallow a ton and rebound back and forth from the springs, its a sign the shocks are shot.

All that is pretty typical for a car that has been sitting for a couple of years. Shouldnt be too terrible to get it all sorted and just driving the car will help a great deal.


Terry

[need4speed]

Thanks everyone for all the feedback.

I did have all the fluids replaced (coolant, oil, brakes, transmission, and gas). And I had requested that the shop tune up the car before I picked her up. But I'll double check that with them. I definitely did not notice the left turn stumble being as bad as it is now. Though I will try some gum out in the carbs. I already ran some Marvel Mystery Oil thru the gas and added some to my oil.

I'm happy to hear that "mal" has flat cornering. Even if it is an "old school" ride, I still prefer the flatter cornering of current cars. So there's probably something amiss with my shocks. I've bounced all the corners and they seem fine. And I asked the shop about them before I picked up the car. And they seemed to think they were fine as well. Though "Tspringer's" description,
"it tends to wallow a ton and rebound back and forth from the springs, its a sign the shocks are shot. ", is exactly what I'm experiencing. As soon as I turn the wheel, I feel like I'm going to tumble out of my seat.

Bert308, I do have some "in progress" shots of my restoration. I'll try to post those tonight (after the debate of course).

Oh, as for the passenger mirror, I bought the car that way. And they are not the correct mirrors. I'm trying to hunt down a set.

Thanks again everyone,

Manny

PS. One other thing, when I pull the latch for the gas door, it doesn't spring open any more. Anyone know of a quick fix?

PSS. Sorry, last thing. I think the shop screwed this up but I want backup from other owners before I blame them. I have a wiring harness coming off the steering column behind the steering wheel going under the dash to the left of the steering column. Do you guys have this wiring harness just sitting externally? It really looks bad, especially after it goes under the dash, you can still see a nest of wires. Shouldn't it be routed inside of something? I never noticed this before as I've never had to get under my dash in the past.

[dm_n_stuff]

I'll snap a picture tonight and post it of the underside of the dash.

[need4speed]

Originally Posted by dm_n_stuff

I'll snap a picture tonight and post it of the underside of the dash.

Thanks Dave.

[mikeyr]

I agree with everyone on the carb issue probably being the cause. Modern gas just does not sit very long without disintegrating. However it is very easy to check the timing and that will cause the popping. Since the car sat, it is possible your advance weights are frozen/rusted and not moving freely. Put a timing light on it and rev it to see if it the timing marks move smoothly.

I know your weights are moving since it is running but they could be sticking. After 14 years of sitting, my weights did not move at all and the car only ran at 2,500RPM to around 4,000RPM range, anything above or below caused backfiring through the carbs (lower revs) and backfiring through the exhaust (higher revs). I dismantled the distributor and got it working but still had sticky weights since the weight pivot pins were shot, the car ran much better. The timing marks moved but not smoothly, they were bouncing all over the place. A new rotating cup with new pivot pins and voila the things runs great.

The timing is an easy thing to check and while you are in there working on the carbs, I would check it.

[need4speed]

Originally Posted by mikeyr

I agree with everyone on the carb issue probably being the cause. Modern gas just does not sit very long without disintegrating. However it is very easy to check the timing and that will cause the popping. Since the car sat, it is possible your advance weights are frozen/rusted and not moving freely. Put a timing light on it and rev it to see if it the timing marks move smoothly.

I know your weights are moving since it is running but they could be sticking. After 14 years of sitting, my weights did not move at all and the car only ran at 2,500RPM to around 4,000RPM range, anything above or below caused backfiring through the carbs (lower revs) and backfiring through the exhaust (higher revs). I dismantled the distributor and got it working but still had sticky weights since the weight pivot pins were shot, the car ran much better. The timing marks moved but not smoothly, they were bouncing all over the place. A new rotating cup with new pivot pins and voila the things runs great.

The timing is an easy thing to check and while you are in there working on the carbs, I would check it.

Thanks Mike. Glad to hear your car is running well. Were you the one with Dino problems as well trying to get to Monterey?

[mikeyr]

Don't know if I was "the one" but I was one of them at least and I sort of made to Monterey. I only got it running good a few days before so I towed the car up on a trailer and then had my wife follow me home as I drove the car down Hi. 1 home.

[need4speed]

Ugly rust on sail panels (both driver side and passenger side).
Bad previous body work on passenger side between door and rear wheelwell.
Dents around the nose badge.

[need4speed]

Dents in rear panel.
Rust in passenger door jamb.
Reassembly after paint.