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#1
11-04-2009, 08:51 PM
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how to clean the tranny casing
I am in the process of trying to clean the tranny casing and will then will paint with alumablast the case as OMGJON has done on his. Can anyone give advice how to clean the case prior to painting? I was thinking of dipping it in an acid tank but thought too abrasive to the gears etc which I will not be removing...maybe engine gunk & a brush? carb cleaner? Laquer thinner? I am curious how to get it clean so I can then paint it. Thanks
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#2
11-04-2009, 09:16 PM
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Painting the case is totally the wrong thing to do if you want a proper original finish. Use WD-40 and some soft steel wool to clean the aluminum to to its original cast state. First pre-soak the aluminum with WD-40 which draws dirt out of the pores of the casting then using more WD-40 and steel wool or a soft brass wire brush so as to not scratch the surface scrub the part and wash using Varsol. You will be stunned at the results and will not want to paint afterwards. Below is the photo of a 308 upright I did using this method.
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#3
11-04-2009, 10:00 PM
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I agree the unpainted original bare aluminum is the way to go. I have used mag wheel cleaner with good results. Use a stainless brush not brass as it will color the aluminum. I then heat the case with a propane torch to drive out the water from the pores and then spray it down with wd40.
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#4
11-04-2009, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
What's different between Varsol and Stoddards solvent? I know Varsol is an Exxon/Mobil brand name.
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#5
11-05-2009, 06:42 AM
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A less exotic way to begin is with a scrub brusg and Tide in hot water, many old school engine rebuilders have been using it for years to clean blocks and transmissions, M
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#6
11-05-2009, 09:05 AM
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Hello,
I was browsing this thread and read one post about using steel wool and WD40. As an aircraft mechanic I was taught very early on never to use steel wool on aluminum as small particles of steel will embeb in the Al setting up a dissimilar metals corrosion problem. The best thing to use is a Scotchbrite pad. Mike, Austin Texas.
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#7
11-05-2009, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
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#9
11-05-2009, 12:34 PM
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I recently "refinished" a tri-power aluminum intake manifold using Easy Off grill cleaner. It removed all the fuel and oil stains and the bare finish looked like new new...
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#10
11-05-2009, 04:34 PM
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aluminium cast cleaning
Champtc,
I managed to clean the gear box, engine and differential casings using a product called "Wonder Wheels" here in the UK. It is a standard high street shop available acid based fluid for cleaning alloy wheels. Makes your fingers sting a little without gloves. I used a combination of tooth brushes and nylon nail bruses, not steel or brass as worried about marking. I put the cleaning fluid in a domestic spray. Took 3 or 4 cleans, but i was very pleased with the result. Prior to this the casting was quite dirty. Some of the more stubbon black bits in the pores I gently eased out with a needle and then re-cleaned. It will however, take the plating off any steel, so mask those parts carefully or replace them. Personnaly, I prefer the original finish and once clean its not that difficult to keep that way using the same method. Not sure I can see the advantage in painting the castings. Kevin
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#12
11-05-2009, 08:40 PM
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Kevin - that differential housing is remarkable. I wouldn't hesitate to do surgery on it. Is that product available elsewhere under a different name? I think I have seen it in the U.S. I will check it out. Quite a beautiful job. Well done.
Jim S.
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#13
11-06-2009, 03:39 PM
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aluminium cleaner - wonder wheels
Quote:
I have tried several wheel cleaners (mostly for use on castings other than wheels) and this one always came out best. I am sure there will be others at least as good. http://www.carplan.co.uk/index.cfm?category=60 It doesn't come up like this straight away, needs several goes and it washing off with water and break cleaner on the last stage. When its all dry I just spray the casting with WD40. The down side is that it will attack plating on bolts in seconds. Kevin
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#15
11-09-2009, 04:01 AM
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This is a very useful thread. The clutch housing on the Stratos is very visible when the rear clip is up, so I have been wondering what to do with it for some time. I am encouraged by those photos!
Yes, I agree painting is not the way to go. By the way, an aircraft maintenance manual I read for advice on preparing magnesium wheels for painting expressly warns against using steel wool, as steel particles get imbedded in the magnesium and corrode. Aluminum is more stable, but probably best to follow that advice.
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#16
11-09-2009, 08:15 AM
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The problem is that it has been painted before and the colors are all very inconsistent. It is really dirty too..I was thinking of dipping it but I suspect that would ruin the seals etc inside (corrode stuff)> I will try the tide powder idea but am not crazy about the chance of water getting into the case (it might). I have sprayed carb/brake cleaner on it with a tooth brush & no real luck...I am hopefully going to put the bottom end of the motor together this week and want to bolt it onto a clean tranny- probably will take more time as it usually does...thanks for the tips!!
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#17
11-09-2009, 10:13 PM
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Champtc, why not try to take all residual paint off first, perhaps with paint remover or lacquer thinner, applied with a rag and rubbed off. Once all the paint is off, try the suggestions above (WD40, wheel cleaner, aluminum cleaner, etc.) until one works. I'll try aluminum cleaner and Scotchbrite this weekend.
Andy
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