Anyone have step by step instructions on removing the 348 motor?

Good luck brother. Im doing a major/engine removal on my 348,around mid year and i will do a step by step pic guide to keep for my records and for the guys here to check out. Although i havent done the job before,im sure i can anwser you questions here. The gearbox would be removed and still bolted to the engine when you remove the subframe from the car. Unbolting the gearbox shouldnt pose a problem i would think once you have the subfame out of the car. The subframe,has bolts underneath the car,i think 6-8 per side that bolts the subframe onto the cab/fuel tank area on the bottom. Also the 4 bolts either side on top of the strut mounts in the engine bay. There may be more,but thats a start man. Have fun

 

Check with ernie-he has posted instructions.
Here's a short course.
Remove rear bumper.
Unplug all wiring going to body.
Unfasten all hoses after draining fluids.
Unbolt subframe from firewall and shock towers.
Roll that sucker out on a furniture dolly (Harbor Freight)

 

Here's the long course

To drop the engine out of a 348 & 355 is just about the same.

Here are the steps.

1) Take the car to a shop that can evacuate the freon from the a/c system. You will need it empty to disconnect the a/c lines.

2) Disconnect the battery, and the ground cables to the frame.

3) Disconnect the ECU's located behind the seats.

4) Lift the car up for access to the bottom. Then remove the covers under the gas tank, and the shift linkage. For the 355 you will also need to remove the under tray and defuser.

5) Disconnect the shift linkage, at the gear box.

6) Drain the oil, using the 12mm allen bolt at the front of the engine, and the plug at the bottom of the oil tank in the rear. DO NOT use the one on the bottom of the engine.

7) Remove the rear wheels, and rear wheel well liners.

8) Drain the radiators using the plastic drain screw, located at the bottom right corner of each radiator tank.

9) Disconnect the cooling hoses, and heater hose attatched to the water pump. They are in the middle, upper, front part of the engine.

10) Disconnect the fuel filters, fuel lines, lines going to the charcoal filter, and connectors to the evaporation system.

11) Disconnect the oil line to the oil cooler, and the line from the oil tank.

12) Disconnect the break lines.

13) Disconnect the line to the clutch.

14) Disconnect the parking break.

15) Disconnect the A/C lines

16) Disconnect the speedometer/tachometer electronic connection going from transmission to the connector, between the clutch line attachment and the charcoal canister, on the body. It is on the left hand side of the engine bay.

16.5) If you are using two floor jacks, you will need to remove the rear bumper. If you have access to a shop lift this step isn't nessesary.

16.5a) To remove the bumper first disconnect the license plate light (and for U.S. cars the side marker lights). You will then need to remove the heat sheilds. Now remove the 4 nuts, two on each side of the bumper, located near the wheel well. Then remove the 4 nuts that hold the bumper to the frame, they are by the muffler, and remove the bumper.

17) Disconnect the bolts that hold the exhaust to the frame.

18) Remove the air filter box.

19) Disconnect the throttle cable

20) Loosen the twelve bolts, but do not take them out yet, that hold the subframe to the body, located at the front bottom of the engine bay.

21) Lower the car so that the engine is sitting on the engine dolly. You can get a 1/2 ton flat moving dolly that will do the job just fine. The kind that has four caster wheels on the bottom and carpet on the sides.

22) Now that the engine is resting on the dolly, you can completely remove the twelve bolts that hold the subframe to the body.

23) Remove the nuts, three on each side, that hold the shock towers to the body. But don't remove the nut that holds the shock in place on the subframe. For 355's you will need diconnect the ride adjustment motors.

24) Remove the four bolts that hold the rear of the subframe to the body.

25) Double check to make sure you have everything disconnected properly.

26) Raise the body of the car leaving the engine resting on the dolly. As you are raising the body feed the ECU cables through the holes. Doing it this way makes it much easier.

26.5) This step is if you are using the two floor jack method. After you have the body off of the engine you will need to rotate the engine 90deg. in order for the shock towers to clear the bottom of the cross bar, that the heat sheild is connected to.

27) Roll the engine out.

If you are going to use the two floor jack method, you will need to make sure that the floorjacks have a lift height of at least 20"-21". Other wise you will not be able to get the car high enough to roll the engine out. Also make sure the you are using jack stands and wheel stops.

Happy wrenching.

 

Ok...

Remove the engine lid.

Working inside the car, slide the seat forward. Remove the leather covered panels on the bulkhead,both of them. Underneith you will find the ECU's for the engine. Unbolt the ECU's from the bulkhead, disconnect the computer and unplug the yellow and white connector.

The rest of the pull is fairly basic. Remove air box assembly, and exhaust heat sheild. Drain your fluids, disconnect hoses, throttle cable, vent lines from the oil tank, clutch line, brake line, parking brake cable, there are 2 small vac lines and 2 electrical connections that must also be removed on the left side of the engine bay toward the front of the engine. They are for the e.v.a.p system, also disconnect the cables from the "jump" connection point. Oil lines must also be disconnected from the oil tank and oil cooler. Disconnect the a/c lines. Undo the exhaust from the top mounting flanges..it will come out with the engine.

Remove all the inner fender sheilds, disconnect the ABS connectors (white) and remove the overflow tube from the expansion tank which is clamped to the shock tower. If you pulling this engine on the floor..remove the rear bumper.

Undo the 4 nuts on the shock towers, and I sometimes even remove the nut on the top of the shock along with the washer. This makes it alot easier to remove when the body flexes inwards during remove of the subframe. Undo all the other mounting points (12 bolts at the front of the car 6 on each side) and 4 at the rear, once you have the subframe supported. The ones at the rear you will see when you remove the inner fender panels. One bolt hole is right beside the cat(horizontaly) And the other is right above it (verticly).

When you start to lower the engine out..you will hear all kinds of flexing noises..don't worry..keep going. The body will flex almost a full inch inward during the removal. I use a turnbuckle brace inbetween the shock towers to keep this from happening. It makes the reinstall very easy..no need to fight with it. As you are lowering..stop often to check noting is still attached to the engine, and all is clear.

Remember..as you are lower the engine out..you must also work the wiring harness out of the firewall the over top of the fuel tank. Do this by lowering the engine about 3 inches at a time, and working inside the car push the harness towrds the engine. The hole they have in the firewall is a little difficult to work with because it is small and the harness connectors barly fit through the hole. They must be put through one at a time.

Hope this helps..

Tom

 

Ernie --

I am trying to remember how many hours you said it actually takes (versus what the Ferrari dealer says it takes) to remove, work on, and put back the engine; but I can't remember.

How many, about?

 

I just finished my 355 engine out(almost idenical to 348) had about 35 hrs. but I piss around alot, clean this adjust that etc. Regards, Vern

 

After I had everything drained and disconnected it took me 4 hours to remove the engine, and about 5 hours to put it back in. Alot of that is double checking your tripple checks. As for the actual work on the engine I didn't keep track, like Vern I pissed around alot and did a bunch of extra stuff, like removing the entire intake plenum for powder coating the top. If you put 8 hrs a day in on the weekend, I would think you could have it all finished in two weekends, maybe even three depending on how much you fool around.

Next time I pull my engine, I'll keep better track of the actual engine time, and not just the pull.

 

VERY good tip Tom. You do need to take your time with this because you DO NOT want to break a wire on the loom. The hole you have to push the connector through is just the right size so that it will only fit through exactly right.

 

YES...there are also 2 other connections that must be undone. One is a yellow connector and the other is white. I always push the too smaller connectors through the hole first and then pass the large ECU connector through. Make sure the the fastening clip is locked in place on the ecu connector. That way it will not get hung up on top of the fuel tank.

The connections on both ECU's are the same except for the drivers side has one extra round connector the must be disconnected.

All the engine wiring says in place.

 

Yes, there are two harnesses and two ECUs one behind each seat. Be real carefull when removing as Tom said above feed them thru a little at a time. The even more trouble getting them back in. I attached a string on the connector end to help in guiding them back thru the hole in the firewall. Also make sure the rubber grommets are in place so the harness wires don't rub on the firewall. Regards, Vern

Edit: Wooops sorry I see Tom and I posted at the same time

 

Yes

They are held in place by clips, 4 if I remeber correctly, that are bolted down under the intake plenum.

As Tom said it is a big help to remove the engine lid. This really comes in handy when you are feeding the looms back through. It also is a big help when you go to put the feed and return hoses back on the water pump and radiator tubes. Especially if you have a ts or spider, you can just put the seats all the way forward and have enough room to stand in the back, then lean over and work on the front of the engine. Other wise you are going to have to play Cirque de Sole.

 

This is on one of the websites I've visited...seemed to contain a wealth of information:

http://webpages.charter.net/aircover/348/1994Ferrari348Spider.html#enginepull

 

Hope these threads from our side of the water helps;

http://******************/showthread.php?t=4488&page=3

http://******************/showthread.php?t=4635

 

hey why didn't that work. anyway look on ferrari chat dot co dot uk in the techincal Q&A.

 

That link has been replaced. Here's the new link for ernie's 2-jack Engine Pull instructions hyper-linked so that you can access more detail on most steps: http://www.the348.com/tech/348.html#enginepull

 

according to Ferrari of Houston 60 hours

 

At US$100 per hour!!