Bonnet release cable broke

Repairing the cable is not too hard, but takes some patience and proper adjustment. I replaced mine last summer, since it was fraying at the cable end. You are lucky that the emergency cable opened it up. There are stories of failed main and emergency cables. Supposedly, the only solution is to break out a taillight or similar drastic means.

Remove the interior pieces around the latches. Three screws each. Look to see where it feeds through the latches, since you will have to accomplish this with the new cable. Study it to see how the cable nut trips the latch. DON'T close the lid until later. Get a good light and a small bowl to catch the cable nuts if they fall off of the cable ends. You will have to bend over and look at the latches upside down while making the repair and adjusting the cable nuts.

1. Get a new cable from a dealer. You can make one or get a bicycle shop to make one, but I went with the proven cable.

2. The cable frays where it enters the bodywork near the handle by design. I bought an extra cable for future use.

3. Lift the handle and remove the one screw that holds it in. The handle will come out and you can pull out the cable after you loosen the lock nuts at each latch.

4. Now you have the cable out and just the emergency cable going to the driver's side latch.

5. Attach the new cable to the handle with the nut and lock washer. You have to feed the entire thing through the hole to get the ring over the post with the nut and washer. Don't overtighten, since the handle is plastic.

6. I put some cable lube on the cable and fed it from the door to the first latch. Don't force it or you will kink the cable. I bought a third cable, since I kinked the first one and used the spare. As it comes out of the bodywork at the first latch, feed it through the latch and into the cable nut with the emergency cable.

7. The cable nut is what trips the latch when the cable is pulled, so push down the latch, and line up the cable nut with the piece that springs open the latch. If it is lined up, start feeding the cable through the metal line to the passenger latch.

8. At the passenger latch, feed it though the latch and put the cable nut on the end so it is in the same position to trip that latch's mechanism.

9. Now everything is in place and needs to be adjusted. The goal is to pull the cable and trip both lock nuts to open both latches. Also, the emergency cable needs to trip the driver's latch and pull the main cable to trip the passenger latch. If the cable broke between the latches or is too slack between the latches, the emergency cable does not work to open the passenger latch.

10. Replace the handle and screw near the door.

11. I grabbed the cable end at the passenger side and pulled it tight. You want a little tension, but not straining the cable. Tighten the passenger lock nut. With the lid open, press the passenger latch closed. Pull the handle and see if it unlocks and if the handle feels like it did before (not too tight, not too loose). Just a little pull, the cable lock moves, trips the latch, and the handle pulls a little more.

12. On the driver's side move the cable nut with both cables in it against the latch and tighten. Test it a few times.

13. With the lid open, push both latches closed and pull the handle to open both latches. Best is near simultaneous, with the passenger side maybe a hair sooner. Remember, the emergency cable doesn't help the passenger side if the slack is between the cables.

11. Test, test, test with the lid open. Do the latches release easily? Does the handle pull, release both latches, and have a little more pull left? Is the cable tight enough to release both latches, but not too tight that it binds making the bends? Are the lock nuts against the latch releases and tightened down so they do not slip?

12. Now close both latches and test the emergency cable with the lid open.

13. Replace the interior pieces. Lube the latches.


Not too hard, but scary the first time you close the lid with the new cable, because you are afraid it won't work.

 

Teat. My first reply did not register.

 

Hey MULE, thanks for the great post! Have time for a question?

Both of my releases work smoothly on my '79 308GTB. However, the black plastic bezel around my engine compartment release is broken and ugly. If I read your notes correctly, there is a retaining screw under the handle, accessable once the handle is lifted? (Obviously, I am at work and the car is art home.) If the access is that easy, I may be able to replace that bezel rather easily - given availability.

thanks again, rick

 

Mule, thank you for your detailed instructions on how to take on this task. I haven't had this happen to me yet, but I guess that time will come at some point.

 

Yes and no. To get the handle out, you need slack in the cable, and the cable feeds through the handle from the other end. So you would have to loosen the cable nuts and pull the entire cable out, to get the handle out. Then feed that far end of the cable back through a new handle and start over. There is a ring on the cable that does not fit through the handle, so you have to feed the other end of the cable throught the handle (the end that goes to the latches). I would wait until you need to replace the cable. And, I bought a new handle myself, but the hole in the back seemed different and almost more prone to fraying.

Glad I could help on the directions. It was a learning process for me. I hope others are successfull when the time comes to replace thiers.

 

Picture:

20, 21, 22, 23 are the handle and washer, nut, eye ring (which is part of cable (24), so it only feeds through the handle one way)
50 is the interior pieces to remove
14 is emergency cable, handle 13 is part of it
36 is lock nut

Both cables go to the driver's latch, then only the main cable goes to the passenger latch, which makes the adjustment part so important. I wish there was one latch like the front lid.
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I thought the front lid had two latches also. Mine is at my other house right now or I would walk out and check it.

 

Maybe 328's are different. I know my 1986 has a single latch in the middle of the hood.

 

Parts book shows both one and two latch versions, with notes on "with ABS" and "without ABS". Also shows the strut on opposite side. Mine is 1989, ABS, one latch, left side strut.
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Nevermind. I was not thinking of the same thing as described. I have a single latch

 

Mule,
You need to add this great information to the 'Sticky' at the top of the page.

 

Congratulations! I am glad that it worked. If the latches release and the handle has no pull left (fully extended), the cables may be too loose, not tight. Too tight and they would release sooner from less slack in the cable. Try moving the nuts in 2 or 3 millimeters, but not too tight. Trail and error on this, but never close the lid if you are not sure.

 

Mule if you are still around can you please tell me if the cable from the door latch to the far passengerside lid latch is 1 piece? If so do you happen to remember the length of the cable. I went to a bicycle shop today and got a .075" dia cable but it is 105" long. I would like to know if it is long enough. Thanks

 

My early cars have two front bonnet latches...

Unobtainium Supply offers the plastic cup and it comes with INSTRUCTIONS!!!!!!

 

I think it is one piece.....and that sounds like plenty!

Not sure, as I haven't replaced mine......I keep it well lubed!

 

The cable from the door handle through both latches is one piece, starts at part #20 in post #8. The second cable goes from the emergency handle pull behind the seat to the driver's side latch, starts at part #13, but only goes through the driver's latch and ends, so it is about 4 feet shorter. The nut at the driver's latch holds both, and in theory, ties the emergency one to the main one to go to the passenger side.

105 inches should be long enough to go from the door handle through both latches. Extra long is okay, since it would stick out from the passenger latch and you could trim it to within a few inches. You can guess by opening the bonnet and measuring from the door jam through both latches. Look at the diagram in post #8 to see the routing. I would say three feet from door to driver's latch, then 4 from latch to latch, making 84 inches. I think you have plenty.

See attachment:
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Thanks Mule.

 

Gents,

Just to add to the confusion.

I have an '81 GTSi NA version. It has two latches and the strut on the drivers side. The strut has a push-button" latch/detent, it is not gas filed.

 

Well Mule I have 2 problems. 1st the simple one. The cable I bought (105") is to short. Your instructions are great but the cable length is 117" (this was the length of my old cable). The handle comes out easy but the plastic housing is broken on the top due to pulling the lever out so I'm trying to bond it but if it doesn't work I'll need to get a replacement. Now here is the second problem.
When I pulled the cable out there was a part on the driver side latch that had locked the cable. Although I had a small container under it when I pulled the cable out something fell into the body somewhere. After studying the latch assembly I can only guess there was some kind of screw/nut combo that attached to the cable after it goes through the latch. I don't know what those parts look like so I was wondering if you are anyone can either get me a picture or describe what these pieces look like. I search for an hour but no luck so far. Is there a close up picture of the driver side latch assembly. I see the passenger side is just a screw crimping the wire . Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks

 

I am really surprised that the cable was too short - seemed long enough!? OEM cable is not too expensive, and has the proper eye hole at the end.

Regarding the piece that fell, it was probably the lock nut. It is a small cylinder/tube with a tiny allen bolt through the side that locks the cable running through it. Make sure you get the small allen bolt if you order the lock nut (they are separate pieces). This is the proper Ferrari part pictured (four allen screws in the bag, just need one per lock nut), but an alternate may work. It has to grip the wire, then trip the latch when pulled without sliding down the wire at all. The wire is actually crushed in place by the allen screw.

Both cables go through the driver's one, but only the main cable goes through the passenger one.
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Great ,thanks. I suspected the part that vanished into the body work would look something like that. The only difference is mine had a small hex head screw in it instead of the set screw. Also as I see it the main cable and 2nd emerg. cable slip into this after going through the fitting on the bottom of the latch mechanism. I tried to look up these parts but couldn't find them on the usual sources. Where did you get the wire cable and these clamps. I also noticed that the cable I got from the bike shop has more strands and is SS. It slipped into the tubing without any problems. Also do you know who would sell the plastic part that holds the chrome pull handle in the body. Thanks

 

I got the cable and lock nuts/screws from Ferrari of Denver. I do not know if the handle can be bought in two pieces; I think it is sold as an assembly, and sometimes they are on eBay. Don't know if the 308 and 328 use the same one. However, I remember Verrell may have tried to make one. His website is http://www.unobtainiumsupply.com/ page 5 of the online catalog.