Can someone explain this tool for the Ferrari? Not sure how it's suppose to work. Any ideas? Image Unavailable, Please Login
that is for doing the valve adjustment. the straight tool is used to depress the valve bucket and the curved tool is used to hold the valve bucket down so you can remove/replace the valve adjustment shim. Regards, Jim
so easy a caveman could do it.... Rgds, vince Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
have fun - the pics are in sequence Rgds, Vince Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Still a little confused. SO the lever with the ball on the end is used to push down the valve and then the hook tool is used to keep the valve down? On the picture where does the hook go? One the edge of the shims? Thanks Also why does the lever with the ball on the end have a little groove or notch on it?
in the second post you can see two adjacent valve buckets in the top left hand pic (time marked 13:39). In that pic, the left valve has the shim & bucket pressed against the cam in the normal operating position. The right shim is being changed out. ~ The right valve & bucket was previously pushed down with the spoon ~ Then the 'hook' was slid around the cam to fill the gap between the bucket (only) and cam. ~ Then the spoon is wiggled free while the 'hook' remains behind & continues to hold down the bucket (with the shim in it). Compare the left valve bucket's operating position with the right valve bucket's position - you can see how the right valve & bucket were pushed down into the head. ~ Then a blast of air (or two) and the shim pops out of the bucket - the last pic shows the empty right side bucket with the shim now resting free just below it. The hook remains to hold the bucket down while the new shim is slipped into place. In person it is a really simple task. Hope that helps, Vince PS: The notch may be needed for clearance on some cars as you 'lever' down on the shim to gain clearance for the hook. It was not needed on the TR - the head dimensions are big enough to allow a straight shot on the spoon - using the spoon as a lever was not required.
Ahh! Makes sense! Thanks for the explanantion. Are these shims common to find anywhere? Or do you go through ferrari to get them?
got the set from Newco Products..... a GREAT investment. it really takes out the 'hassle factor' of buying 'em as needed. http://www.newcoproducts.com/ rgds, Vince Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Ferraristi, Vince, Wow, very good explaination! This is way over me but I love learning new things. BTW, I see the box of shims in your pix. How do they go in....just sit on the tappet? What holds it in place? Also, what measurement is used to determine shim size? Again over my head but info would be appreciated. Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice !
Yes great link Vince! This tool also works on the Lamborghini Diablo too! Shamile, once you have the cup locked down with the hook tool the shims just pull off with a magnet or use a wooden tooth pick to pop it off the cup. As Vince said...it's pretty easy.
A blast of air pointed down the slit on the side of the shim bucket worked best for me. The oil tends to hold the shim in place like water on a suction cup. The buckets freely rotate - be sure to rotate the bucket's slit into a position for easy airgun access before the squirt of air and before you hold the bucket down with the 'hook'. Aim to get the air blast to go under the shim. Once free of the bucket, the magnet works great to pull the shim clear of the cam (see pic). The tools as received were pretty rough from the casting process. Be sure to file them nice and smooth before use & also use a lot of oil. The brass is really soft and in therory can't scratch the harder steels. A smoother surface does, however allow the tools to slide more easily. The shims are clearly stamped for thickness but still need to be double checked. I wish they made intermediate shim sizes as well. So often it was a 50:50 tossup - - leave it on the loose side, or add a thicker shim and leave it on the tight side. An intermediate shim would get it perfect. The mic allows you to sort thru the shims and you can usually find one that is just a teensey bit thicker or thinner than the others. When in doubt, leave it on the loose side, they get tighter with mileage. Too tight burns valves. the shims are held radially in place by the bucket and vertically by the small clearance per the manual. enjoy, Vince Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
excellent pictures and thread. this applies to many cars. where did you purchase the tool? thanks. alberto
slip a feeler guage between the shim & cam while the cam lobe is pointed away from the valve... if the gap is too tight, go to the 'next size thinner' shim. easy. once you see it done, this is one of the easiest tasks associated with a major. it is the 'seemingly simple' things on this 'major' that are driving me nuts.... like hoses. Rgds, Vince
this stuff is the easy part - some day I aspire to fully understanding the electrical stuff!!! ;-) Thank heaven for Fchat! Rgds, Vince
