Hello to Everyone this is my first Post! I would like to remove the speedometer from my 1980 GTSI, but I don't know how to do it. I plan on sending it to Palo Alto Speedometer in order to have the face silk-screened to remove the horrible-looking orange streak which appears after 80 mph! They will silk-screen the face to read up to 180 mph, and re-calibrate it as well. I am told that you just plug it back in and it's done. Have any of you done this and what did you think of the results? Could you help me with removal proceedures? Thank You Caio Furio BTW...does anyboby have any experience with a TUBI exhaust installed on the 2 valve 308?? I am wondering what the TUBI sounds like as opposed to the stock system...this might be my next project, but I am wondering if it is worth the expense.
You will have to let me know how that turns out. The stupid orange section drives me crazy. I guess it's the early 80s cars. My 81 Porsche 928 did that in addition to my 1979 MBZ 6.9. So annoying!!! Also can you just throw in a later model speedo or a earlier one too? Ie: 328 speedo, or earlier 308, or later?
You need to remove the whole cluster as one unit. If you don't know how to do that, it's pretty simple. Gently pull the warning lights at each corner of the cluster and find the screws that are way back in behind each one. Pull all four of them and the cluster will come out in one unit. Once you get the cluster out it's just a matter of marking, then pulling the plugs on the speedo and undoing the little U bracket that holds it to the face. It will then slide out the front of the cluster plate. Once you get the cluster out it should be pretty self explanatory. Good luck!!
I just had this done to my 80 GTBi 2 months ago. Its pretty simple to remove the cluster. The hardest thing I had was getting the steering wheel screws to break loose without damaging them. I also suggest disconnecting the battery at the quick disconnect since you are dealing with a nest of wiring back there. Take your time. Do a search on here and you'll find lots of instructions on how to do it. Palto Alto had my speedo for about 2 weeks. When I got it back I just plugged it back in and "presto" no problems with the change from 80 to 180mph speedo. I would suggest while you have the cluster out, bypass the dimmer relay and replace the bulbs with the upgraded bulbs. Lots of threads on here about that too. Joe
If you're undoing the allen key screws on the steering wheel go for a good quality allen key. Bondhus or similar quality metric allen key tools will not damage your screws where a cheaper tool will. Worst is using a "close enough" to fitting imperial tool.
Jay, there are two versions of the 308 speedos. They take diffreent senders. The later ones can be swapped with later ones only, and same for early ones. I think the switch over was in 1981? Gerrit
My first post and I am surprised at all the reply's!! Thank you all so much and it sounds pretty simple to do. I'll wait a few weeks and do it, since there are still some top-off days left here in NYC. John, Thanks for the instructions. Joe, Were you satisfied with the job Palo Alto did, and can you "tell" it was silk-screened? Also, what did you mean when you say "by-pass the relay", since I would really like to replace those bulbs. Where did you get yours? Again Fellas thanks, and I hope to contribute to FerrariChat. Furio
While I'm thinking about it, I do have another problem with the unit. The speedometer is fine for the first 5 minutes or so, then the needle jumps around a bit, then it just goes down to zero and stay's there for good. Do you think that this is a problem with the speedo (which I will mention to Palo Alto) or some wiring type issue?
I was very satisfied with the work Palto Alto did on the speedo. The silkscreen looks factory new to me. I had them do a little extra work on my speedo while they had it (to the trip meter) so it cost me a little more. I think a standard 80-180 speedo is quoted at $175 +sh. I suspect the sender at the transmission is the problem with your speedo going to zero after a short drive. That's not too expensive and pretty simple job to replace. But if you are getting the speedo overhauled anyway, see if it still does that once you get it back. If it does, then you know its likely the sender. IF the problem is in the speedo, AP should catch it during the overhaul. The bad thing about overhauling the speedo is it will look brand new next to the 30 year old tach in the cluster I should have said "reostate" (sp) instead of relay. That's the knob in the center where you dim the dash lights. ONce you get the cluster out, disconnect the two wires that go to that and put them together with a jumper. THis will eliminate the voltage loss through there and make your dash lights brighter. Some say they don't see much change but I did when I did mine. The bulbs (can't think of the specific model number right now) can be bought at most auto parts stores. If you will do some searches on this forum you will find lots of threads on doing these (and other jobs). I am astounded every time I do a project on the car. SOMEBODY has already done it, explained how to do it with photos in most cases. Good luck. Joe
Here's a good write-up on how to change out the bulbs and how to bybass the dimmer. Even if you don't do those things the write-up still had good info on how to pull the cluster. http://www.nwrfca.org/faq/dashlights.html
See the test form at http://www.paspeedo.com/ratio.htm with instructions for calibration to be done by you BEFORE you remove the unit. It involves measuring the number of full wheel revolutions etc etc etc.
Isn't that for the mechanical Speedo where you measure the turns of the cable? These speedos work off of electrical pulses don't they? All I did was send it to them and they overhauled it. Joe
You could very well be right. When I call them some time back they told me to follow the procedure first, assumed that was the right one. Never assume. In any case, call them first. My speedo reads 10% high like most others which bugs me but not enough to have done anything about it, yet.
