I fixed my windows....Cheap

I would have preferred to keep my car stock, all original, I have worked hard removing the "shade Tree Mechanics" trails, but I was tired of pulling up and pushing down my windows. As Brian told me, you can go to a junk yard put a half charged battery in any Ford and the windows work.

Here is my cheap fix. I spent about $7

I bought the relays at Parts Express, it takes 4 of them. $1.69 each
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-073

A few feet of #12 wire, a few spade and ring lugs, I chose to solder them on for a better connection, then used heat shrink to replace the insulation on the lug. I chose to use Red for the (+) or Hot wire and White for the(-)Neg.

1.The relays are SPDT, use 2 per window.
2.The NC on both relays contact gets the (-) the NO contact gets the (+).
3.I connected the motor wires to the wiper position on each relay.
4.I connected the wires from the up/down switch to one side of the coil on each relay, the other side on both relays I connected to (-) Neg.
5. I a 20 amp circuit breaker in the fuse area, I then connected the red hot
(+) wires to a 20 amp circuit breaker connecting the other side to the large battery connector on the fuse block.

Before I started I had 5.7 volts on the window motors, when I finished I had
11.7 volts.

I can give a better diagram / pictures if someone needs

Doug

 

I take some tonight

 

I'll take pictures of my project tonight, and if I can figure out how, I'll add a schematic too and post them tomorrow

 

As promised, here is a step by step of how I cured my slow windows. The schematic in the previos postings is very close to the text below and i would recommend you copy and add to your folder.

**As others have also recommended, if you haven’t cleaned out the old grease from the window motor gear box, that should be the first step in the procedure. It is very important, once this modification is complete, you will provide sufficient voltage/current to damage the window motors from the excess load from hard grease.

Parts required for modification:
4 relays, 30 AMP DPDT, http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-073
1 20 Amp circuit breaker, a simple automotive breaker with threaded studs and 2 mounting tabs
10 feet of black or red # 12 fine strand wire, 5 feet of white #12 fine strand wire
3 feet of black # 16 fine strand wire, 3 feet of white #16 fine strand wire.
12 Female spade lugs, 2 Male spade lugs, 4 Ring lugs
Black electrical tape, various tie wraps
*note, I did not crimp my lugs, I soldered mine on so I also used ¼” heat shrink for insulation

Pre-wiring relay:
1. Tape 2 relays side by side with electrical tape.

2. Cut a 4 inch #12 red and #12 white wire, strip the ends. Crimp/solder a female spade on only one end of each wire. Strip the end of the long wire and insert it along with the remaining end of the short wire into a female spade lug. Crimp or solder. Install the short red wire from one NO contact on the relay, the other NO contact. Install the short white wire from one NC contact on the relay, the other NC contact.

3. Cut two 8 inch #16 black wires, strip ends. Crimp/solder a female spade on one end and a male spade lung each black wire. Install one short black wire on just one side of the relay coil connection on each relay. Cut one 4 inch and one 15 inch #16 white wire, strip ends. Crimp/solder a female spade lug on one end of the 4 inch wire, insert the other end of the 4 inch and one end of the 15 inch white wire into a female spade lug, crimp/solder. Install a ring connector on the remaining end of the 15 inch white wire, crimp/solder. Install the short white wire from the remaining coil connection on one relay to the same connection on the other relay.

Relay Installation:
1. Remove the door panel, there are various screws, 2 nuts under the arm rest & mirror control
2. Remove speaker in door; expose the 2 wires that connect the window motor.
2a. Route the long end of the red #12 and white #12 through the speaker opening and out through the edge of the door along side the factory wiring into the body of the car. Route the red to the fuse block area, the white will connect later to the large Phillips screw just inside the dash area. Disconnect the 2 wires to the window motors, connect the two #16 black wires from the relays to the harness ends and re-install connector covers. Connect each motor wire to a relay common connector. Loosen the nut on the window guide and connect the white #16 wire.
2b. Remove fuse panel cover from car; install circuit breaker under convenient mounting screw. Connect a #12 red wire from main power connector module to circuit breaker. Connect the #12 red wire from the new window relay to the circuit breaker. Connect the #12 white wire from the new window relay under convenient large mounting screw.
2c. Turn on cars ignition, operate window control, note if window goes in the opposite direction, reverse the #16 black wires on the relays.
2d. Using a tie wrap attach the relays to the large wiring harness in the door, re-install speaker, re-install door panel
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Rick,

I know Brian says these cars won't shrink in the rain....but do you really want to chance it?

Mine stays in when the sun isn't shining, if the 308 gets any smaller, the wife will be the sole driver.

As far as the windows in your car, the way I did it, you can easily return the car back to ''un-touched stock''