Who has the best knock-off remover?

Hi, Daryl - I know I'll get crucified for this but I've used ONLY a lead hammer to remove the knock-offs on my car (330 GTC) - for the last 28 year as a matter of fact. Since I've put over 100,000 miles on it, you can bet that the wheels have been off and on MANY times. The knock-offs are like brand new.
When I had my restoration business, I actually restored knock-offs by rebuilding them with weldment and then chroming. All the ones that were damaged were done so by brass or copper hammers.
For what it's worth.
Bob Z

 

I got a socket that uses a 3/4" drive.

Here's a thread that should help:
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11635&highlight=kumor

--Matt

 

Hi Daryl, I have a 365 GTC and I have in the past made up my own lead mallet by removing rawhide from a Thor hammer and casting in a lead head, but I now use a rubber faced dead-blow hammer which is filled with lead shot. It weighs about 2.5 lbs and is a really good bit of kit. I never leave home without it.

Colin Angell

ps You can melt lead in a saucepan, but it's a bugger to wash up afterwards!

 

Colin - that's exactly what I've been doing for years. Works perfectly, has never damaged a knock-off. I recast it when it mushrooms out.
I'm sure the torque wrench and adapters work well but the hammer is quick and positive. Also, a lot more compact.
Bob Z

 

I had always used lead hammers on Dunlop wire spoked wheels, but that's because the Dunlop spinners stand quite proud of the rims, and Dunlop wheels on Jags, etc. are all steel. In the case of the 6.5 and 7.0 Borranis, however, the spinners are quite recessed, so the concern is not so much damaging the spinners, rather it is denting the aluminum rims.

After hitting the rim once or twice I wondered if there would be a better way than the brute force of the hammer. At the time I didn't know there were knock-on tools on the market, and I set out to make something that would resemble a socket. What I ended up with was a foot-long piece of four-inch diameter aluminum pipe with notches at one end to fit over the spinner, and through holes at the other end where a lever bar (a piece of 3/4 inch pipe) would go through. It works perfectly. I slip a rag over the spinner before slipping on the "socket" to avaid marring the chrome plating of the spinner.

john

 

I use the tool from Stainless Steel Braking Co. Works great.

 

Go to www.customfabandwelding.com and click on products.
There you will see the coolest KO tool around.

 

This is the tool they developed for me. It works on my Lola, MK-IV, and P3/4.
It's very trick.

 

Napolis,
With the 3 "bent ear" knock offs, will that tool remove AND tighten the knock offs?
TIA

 

Here another view of Napolis' knockoff tool (hope you dont mind Jim).

 

Yes and it imparts the correct amount of force very easily without too much force. The non marring Delrin head which also comes in black works on all my cars and they can custom fab it to work on any knockoff. The sprint car guys use this tool and it's super.

 

Well all this makes the Ball Peen and the 2x2 piece of oak that I use pretty sad.

 

A ball peen hammer? Really?

 

Maybe if enough people are interested, we can get a group buy discount.

 

If anybody is interested I am offering my official Ball Peen and oak 2x2 system in a leatherette bag for only $250. It is really a vintage look, and this is how it was done in the old days!

 

The one from Stainless Stell Brakes has a built in torque wrench so you can tighten them enough, but not too much.

 

I will have mine at Monterey for those who wish to see it.