360 F1 Hydraulic Pump Relay Pictures (inside)

Well, my 360F1 Spider (year 2000 with 42K miles) suffered some sort of F1 hydraulic failure... For about two weeks, the F1 transmission was often going into "N" (neutral) when shifting up from 3>4 or 4>5 or 5>6. However, when it switched into a particular gear (i.e., 6th) the clitch grip was fine and it did not slip.

Then, one day it got stuck in the 6th gear and the F1 transmission failure indicator lit up. As this problem happened over the weekend, when Ferrari dealership was closed, I had to tow my car home using rear wheel dolies to avoid damaging the gearbox and motor. It is still in front of my garage in the back yard (behind closed gates, of course...).

Reading several threads, I figured out that most likely:
a) F1 hydrauilc pump motor has burnt, because I dont hear it work any more at all (neither when opening a door, nor when I try turning the ingition key).
b) the F1 hydraulic pump relay has burnt (???)
c) all other issues (leaking lines, hair line fracture, a leaky EV-line, etc.)

First, I purchased a new relay Tyco V23134-B57-X203 and installed it instead of the old one (indicated as "C" on Picture 1). However, this did not solve the problem - not my luck !!! Most likely, it's the pump...

Then, I got curious and gently opened up the Tyco V23134-B57-X203 relay using small flat screw drivers to remove the gray plastic cover (Pictures 2 and 3). The only thing I could do is to compare the resistance of the solenoid coil of the old and new relays (as shown on Picture 2), which was similar (520-550 ohms). When I presses on the contact plate, I got current through the two central contacts perpendicular to each (as shown in Picture 2).

Whell, the saga of F1 hydraulic transmission continues... Will keep you all posted about the progress.

I welcome your suggestions.
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HHogan, RayJohns, and Fmax - thank you all for suggestions!
I did check the F1 fluid level as soon I got the car home, but it was actually above the normal level (!!!). This tells me that this is not likely to be a major leak. About 4 moths ago, the EV2 line started to leak in the middle of the tube, which caused a significant loss of F1 fluid and a lot of smoke from the engine compartment (because it sprayed on cats and exhaust). I had removed that line and repaired it at the local Hydraullics-R-US place for $85 (they simply had built a new one for me with far more pressure capacity than the original one, >100 bar).

Today, I will test the motor by directly applying 12V to the wires. However, I am not optimistic, based on everything I had read before on this forum... If the motor will not run, I will take it to the local electrical motor shop to check it and rewind it if neccessary, as suggested by Fmax.

Will keep ya'll posted.

 

Today I tested the F1 hydraulic motor - it works FINE !!! First, I measured the motor resistance, which was very low (less than an ohm...). Then, I made wire extentions and connected those to the motor plug and to a small 12V 8Amp/h battery UB1280 from my gate opener (!!!), as shown on attached pictures. The motor worked and started to pump the F1 oil the level of which started to visibly descrease in the oil-tank. Then, I turned on the ignition key and pulled both paddles up and managed to switch gears into "N" (neutral). The F1 failure light is still blinking, but I was able to start the car motor and recharge the battery. However, the F1 transmission refuses to switch into any gear and is still in "N"; when I try up-shifting, there is no relay sound and the F1 pump motor does not start when I turn on the key, or open the door. Again, I tried to switch off the battery and wait for 15 min, hoping that this would potentially reset something in the F1ECU. However, no luck... still doen not shift from "N".

So, in summary: F1 transmission relay is OK, F1 pump os OK. Other potential problems: F1 ECU ??? or should the the F1 system be reset using an SD2 or a similar system ???

Your further advice will be greately appreciated.
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Thanks for suggestions Kaamacat. When I open the door (key not in ignition), the F1 Pump does not start priming, as typically it should. Therefore, I can not even measure the PSI level on the pump output. I can activate the pump motor only by connecting 12V 8A directly to the pump, but at 8A/hour power the pump will not generate enough pressure. The electric pump for the hydraulic power supply is managed by an ON-OFF control system: pump-ON operation is activated when the pressure is less than 42 bar, OFF operation when the pressure is more than 60 bar. Yet, I know that the pump motor works and that the problem it is not in the motor or the corresponding relay. It may be TCU, sensors, need for a reset the program, etc.

Any other suggestions?

 

Thank you for suggestions, MaliguGuy. Indeed, there may be problems with any of four sensors that are associated with the F1 transmission:
1) gear engagement sensor (Picture 1, A)
2) gear selection position sensor (Picture 1, B)
3) clutch position sensor (Picture 2, C) - the one you are talking about.
4) gearbox input shaft revolution sensor (Picture 3, D)

I will have to test those using my friend's SD2 tester...
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I have checked all fuses in both boxes to the right side of the F1 pump relay and all of those fuses were fine.

Which 30A fuse in particular are you talking about? I thought that the reason those 30A relays go bad (the relay contacts get welded together in an ON position or the coil burnes) is that there is no fuse to protect this relay. Others have previously suggested to put a 30-50A breaker or a fuse in line with that relay to protect it.

Please, explain.

 

Per your suggestion, I checked the wiring and fuses manual for 360F1 and found the fuse you described inside the LH side compartment, behind the driver's seat (table L4.09, item 34H). This 30A fuse was burnt (the one I am pointing at on the picture below). When I replaced this fuse and turned the battery switch on - the F1 hydraulic motor started as usuall and continued to work for about 10-12 seconds. Then, I turned on the ignition key and saw a flash of light comming from that 30A fuse - it burned again !!! (???).

Now what? Your comments and suggestions are welcome.
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Thank you Kaamcat for this excellent suggestion. I will try this as soon as I find a suitable ampermeter (with at least a 100A range)!

Will keep you posted...

 

Good idea! However, I will need a more powerfull baterry. The small battery I showed in pictures has only 8 amps/hour... it may not produce enough current to blow the 30A fuse, I think... I will try anyways.

Thanks!

 

Finally, I purchased the replacement pump from Ricambi and found time to replace the old pump that had a shorted motor... Aslo, I replaced a relay, but did not upgrade it to a 50 Amps yet.
Interestingly, Ferrari tech at the dealership told me that thay often end up selling a second pump to "do-it-myselfers", because it is not as simple as throwing a new part into the Chevy... (yeh..., mmmmm... -duh...., let's see). Whel, I thought about it a little - the only thing that may go wrong is - air getting inside... Need to develop a purge procedure, because I could not find any instructions from the web on how to install this pump (!?).

Here is my 20 step guideline for the F1 pump replacement/installation (see pictures as well):

0) you should purchase a 12V 8A/h battery and build a 2-wire connector to deliver electrical current to the pump, shown in my previous posts;

1) turn the battery switch "off" !!! unplug the electrical wire connector to the pump; unplug the right rear lights connector, which otherwise will be in the way.

2) untighten clamps on the rubber hose that connects black hydraulic fluid reserouir with the pump inlet and pull it off; use plastic tray to collect the fluid; put some cloth underneath to catch any dripping fluid.

3) after pulling the hose off the pump inlet, you will see a white plastic filtering insert sticking out of the inlet of the pump - make sure you clean it well with Air Mass Sensor cleaner and then with silicone spray. The role of this filter is to prevent small particles getting into those solenoids distributing hydraulic liquid into individual lines into F1 transmission unit. Make sure, that no dirt gets inside the new pump head.

4) then, unscrew the inlet connector (metal inlet tube) and clean it with a degreaser and slilcone spray

5) place paper towels or gause under the pump outlet (metal tube connecting the pump with the hydraulic power distributor); unscrew this tube;

6) inscrew the electrical socket from the frame of the hydraulic power unit.

7) unscrew 3 bolts holding the pump attached to the hydraulic power unit frame and remove it.

8) take the new pump and screw in the metallic inlet connector and place that small cyllindrical plastic filter inside as shown on the picture.

9) install the pump but dont tighten all three screws (those should be only half-way in); this is important, because later you will have very hard time finding a proper position to screw in that metal tube connecting to the power distribution module (the one with with solenoids).

10) attach that black ruber hose that connects black hydraulic fluid reserouir with the pump inlet; make sure not to damage the plastic filter sticking out of the inlet; tighten the metal clamps. NB! Do not connect the metal tube to the outlet! Dont try to screw it in at this step!

11) fill the black reservoir with hydraullic fluid to the top (no need to close the lid at this time - you will have to pour more fluid soon); place paper towels (i.e., Bounty) under the outlet of the pump.

12) you should have bought a 12V battery as was indicated before and built a 2-wire connector to deliver electrical current to the pump; connect the wires to the pump electrical connector and activate the pump for 3-4 second long purge cycles x 4-5 times.

13) at this time hold on the pump body with your left hand and the outlet tube screw with your left hand and carefully screw it in half-way; make sure not to ruin the thread, otherwise you can kiss your new pump good by...

14) repeat the purge procedure (see step 12) 3 -4 times; see the following YouTube link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmjnQnf-sng
After each purge gradually tighten the connecting screw untill there is no more fluid leak and tithten it well, finally.

15) unplug electrical wires and connect the pump harnes back with the pump; attach it back to the frame with the original screw (reuse the old one).

16) install a new relay (relay box behid the passenger seat) and a new 30 Amps maxi fuse (compartment behind the driver's seat).

17) turn the battery switch "on"

18) turn the ignition key, start your car engine; the faulty F1 transmission light should disappear before your eyes!

19) let the engine run for a couple of minutes; close the engine lid and try changing gears up and down and see if the rear gear can be engaged.

20) drive out of the garage and enjoy the ride.........
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Yes, I must say that that is a very nice tool and I will definitely purchase it.
I will take my old pump apart and post the results of my inspection soon.
Keep checking this thread....