what can i expect mileage wise if the car is not raced
You'll find most questions have been asked before so its always worth looking - and this has been a popular one over the years It depends on F1 or Manual but for example here http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=358911 is one answer - there's others about every month
If you know how to use a manual clutch, it will last the life of the car. That is greater than 100K miles, even if you track the car, regularly. The trick is to avoid putting power through the clutch while it is in the friction zone. If you don't know how to use a manual clutch you might get 50 miles or 50K miles. F1 systems tend to have smaller variations in clutch life. Me, personally, I have never worn out the pressure plate on amy manual transmission car I have ever owned (I'm 60) with many hundreds fo thousands of miles. I have worn out an automatic transmission (96 4Runner at 170K miles), but only one. I have 5000 track miles and 64K total miles on the original clutch in my F355.
Discussed many times in multiple threads over many years so the search function is your friend on this. Unfortunately there’s also been much misinformation spread throughout those many discussions so be careful who you’re listening to. Short answer is that clutch life (either manual or F1) is determined almost entirely by two factors: (1) Proper installation & adjustment, and (2) driver technique. Either manual or F1 clutches can be killed in 1K miles or driven to the same high miles (60K-70K often reported) depending on those two factors alone. Proper technique covered here http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=316605 for starters. It’s a great car with plenty of life in the clutch given proper care.
I agree with everything said above... The only issue with the 360 6-speed manual transmission is that the clutch bearing tends to go bad and since it is an all out clutch job, you might as well replaced the clutch disk, even if its not worn out yet...
Techs at Algar have told me they typcailly see F1 360/430s last around 14-16k miles on average and 3 pedal cars can go much longer, not so much because of any difference or advantage in design its just that the cars computer can not intervene as much as on the F1 car. To quote the tech, 'the F1 system has very little tolerance of clutch wear -- 3 pedal cars you can go down to the rivets if you want'. On my car -- a 00 360 3 pedal -- the first owner got 9k miles. The next clutch lasted 23k miles. When i had it replaced, it wasn't even slipping, it was the forks of the pressure plate which were losing their springiness which was making the point of engagement vary with engine temp and speed and contributing to an overall feeling of concern/worry. The TO bearing was also very dry and spinning quite roughly. The flywheel had some hotspots and other evidence of fatigue. The flywheels aren't milled flat but have a conical cross-section which Ferrari claims make take up smoother (its probably really done to prevent someone from trying to cut/resurface the flywheel to reuse it). If you get 20k+ miles on a clutch and you go through all the labor to get the transaxle out of the car, you'd be a bit foolish not to replace the flywheel as well, or some my logic suggested to me. The flywheel is now $1800 (prices went up a lot in the last few years). A complete clutch job to include the clutch plate, pressure plate, TOB, and flywheel will run you between $7 and 8k at a dealer, so keep that in mind. I'm not sure if you are asking because you are looking to buy a car but if you are I'm looking into selling mine. PM me if you want more details. The car has lots of documentation and recent repairs which will benefit the next owner a great deal. Good luck.
its al in the shifting skills of the driver. Rev high in 1st gear all the time from a dead stop and clutch will die fast, every time.
When the clutch is slipping (at take off or on shifts) be gentle. When the plastes are locked in equilibrium, feel free to belt it. Make sure not to mince around so much that it prolongs the slip period though. I saw an F1 360 do a "too fast" take off the other day, slight hill 90" turn, smoke out of the engine bay. Easily done. I'd personally misjudged take offs before and frazzled my clutch enough to smoke, probably 3 or 4 times. when I got the clutch done it still had loads of life left, and I thought it would be battered. They are hardy things. I'm not sure how people do go through them so fast. I suspect reving to 4K and dumping the clutch then slipping it all the way to shift to second might have something to do with it. (Fastest way to get going though?) N
Not to thread jack, but FTA, could you please PM me details of your car for sale? I am interested in an early 360 with manual trans.
I don't buy this. A far greater influence is the environment in which the miles are driven. Drive it in stop and go traffic all day or up and down hills vs cruising all day down the freeway are far more an influence. Yes, a poor driver can go through one faster than someone who knows how to save it but it's insignificant to how and where it is driven.
I think heat is a huge factor too, which is related to driving style I suppose. Again, I pretty carefully inspected my clutch plates and due to the bowl shape of the flywheel it was pretty easy to see that the outside of the clutch plate face had more wear than the inside but was most remarkable was how the inside had almost no wear at all, meaning that very little clutch material was used (in 4 yrs/20+ kmiles), yet the clutch had a hard/rough throw and the point of engagement varied with different engine temperatures (which seemed to be a function of how hot the forks on the pressure plate were [which in turn affected their spring]). I think when the car is moving, the air flow around the engine bay helps a great deal in maintaining proper temps and that affects some of the clutch components over time. As I mentioned in a related thread, my TOB was not leaking on the shaft but the bearing itself spun very roughly, which I guessed was due to the grease which is permanently sealed in the TOB drying out (again, due to heat -- and age) which accelerated the wear of the bearings and the races in there.
