Boxer engine out...

robertinOK · #1 01-11-2006, 10:56 AM

Hi,

I'm removing the engine from my '84 BBi for belt service and clutch...and all the other things that will come to light.

Does anyone here have experience with this which might stop me finding out the hard way what not to do? I have searched for help, but found nothing.

In particular at the moment it looks like removing the clutch casings and distributor will ease getting the engine out, but do I need to remove the transfer casing first, or will the 'bellhousing' for the clutch come away with the tranfer casing attached?

Any pointers would be a great help.

Thanks, Robert

parkerfe · #2 01-11-2006, 11:37 AM

I've never removed one myself, but Ted Rutland has and he told me that the Boxer engine is the easiest of all Ferrari engines to remove...he said it's like removing a small block Chevy from a Camaro. However, he did say that removing and reinstalling the rear engine cover was the hardest part of the job...

J.P.Sarti · #3 01-11-2006, 11:42 AM

Dont know about the dist, maybe the cap so it doesn't break.Remove exhaust then clutch/bell housing is easy.

The biggest PITA I have heard on removing the BB engine is you need to remove the headers first, getting access to the bolts looks fun. Everything else is not that difficult just taking off parts.

**Llenroc** · #4 01-11-2006, 03:20 PM

I have done one 512 engine out a few years ago and don't remember any real problems. It seems fairly step by step of disconnecting things. Engine hood and headers first then fluids and so on. I used nylon straps instead of chains to lift engine. They are easier than the 348/355 and they are not hard just a little more time. Regards, Vern

**msdesignltd** · #5 01-11-2006, 03:26 PM

Dont forget to take pics along the way!
a # of boxer owners will be watching!

37 to be exact

RP · #6 01-11-2006, 03:28 PM

robertinOK:
You are a brave soul. When you are done, how would you like a vacation in south Florida and you can do my Boxer?

ferraripete · #7 01-11-2006, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parkerfe

I've never removed one myself, but Ted Rutland has and he told me that the Boxer engine is the easiest of all Ferrari engines to remove...he said it's like removing a small block Chevy from a Camaro. However, he did say that removing and reinstalling the rear engine cover was the hardest part of the job...

the rear cover is the easiest part of the job...
simply tape up all of the edges of the car and the bonnet and lay the bonnet gently in place. there are two areas that will properly locate and orient the bonnet. the next step is to simply fasten the 6 bolts from the rear hinges to the bonnet. open and close to test...takes 3 people to perform.

i could not believe how safe and easy it was!

**Llenroc** · #8 01-11-2006, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ferraripete

the rear cover is the easiest part of the job...
simply tape up all of the edges of the car and the bonnet and lay the bonnet gently in place. there are two areas that will properly locate and orient the bonnet. the next step is to simply fasten the 6 bolts from the rear hinges to the bonnet. open and close to test...takes 3 people to perform.

i could not believe how safe and easy it was!

Pete, I had to laugh when you said it took three people to replace the engine hood, I had the same situation, me, the owner and a neighbor girl, she was the other person I could round up at the time. The next time I do it I'll be more prepared. Regards, Vern

P.S. sorry for getting off topic

robertinOK · #9 01-11-2006, 05:24 PM

Well, the job seems to be going well. Got the exhaust headers off today (not the easiest of jobs!). Had to redo a few of the tack welds holding the heatsheilds on, so took the opportunity to also remove the exhaust sampling ports and seal them. I am planning on taking the manifolds to Air Born Coatings in OKC for ceramic coating next week; they are 45 mins drive from here so an easy choice. They told me the exhaust temp. would drop at least 100deg...got to be a good thing for the CV's

Tomorrow I'll remove the Dist. and clutch housing, drain fluids etc. then remove the injection assemblies.

I have been taking pictures along the way; Once they've been through Adobe I'll post a few if people are interested.

There is no need to remove the 6 fixing bolts for the engine cover, simply remove the two cotter pins, that way the cover fits on re-assemble. However, one pin was seized and took me 3 hours to remove, in 4 pieces...don't tell me they are unobtainable!

A vacation in Florida sounds great right now: might just have to take you up on that offer! ....the car was orriginally from there, bought it just over 2 years ago.

Robert

**330GT2+2** · #10 01-11-2006, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by msdesignltd

Dont forget to take pics along the way!
a # of boxer owners will be watching!

37 to be exact

Exactly...did my Hemi- 67 GTX by myself over the winter a few years ago..anything's possible with hydraulics. it was just like any old car, only bigger and heavier...but a flat 12 undertaking......might give me a little pause..just don't have the time anymore.. I did view Norwoods removing my clutch a few days ago, and the exhaust seemed to be the biggest pain..other than that..it's all right there. Pics !!! what fun to watch someone else have a friggin car apart..it's been 4 days for mine and it's killing me...75-80 degrees here in Dallas.

Are you doing any mods or exhaust upgrades?? would like to know the results of any improvements while the old girl is apart..my last engine-out was 2001.
they say 4-5 years and it's time. Mine is coming up soon.

Good Luck and hat's off!

**Llenroc** · #11 01-11-2006, 05:42 PM

Robert, you reminded me of something we did regarding exhaust shields to protect the CV boots. Boxers seem to eat the inside boots, the exhaust heat I think is the problem. Anyway we welded some sheilds to the headers before they were ceramic coated. Just a thought. Regards, Vern

**tbakowsky** · #12 01-11-2006, 06:54 PM

You don't really need to remove the transfer gears and bell housing to get the engine out. A slight tilt forward (crank pully down) will allow for clearance.

SpannerMan · #13 01-12-2006, 01:13 AM

Ahh too bad this post wasn't a week earlier, as we just finished a 365 service. Looked straight forward, just lots of parts taken off before motor was pulled. We replaced the clutch disk, so bellhousing was pulled before motor. Some of the bellhousing studs pulled out and needed to be helicoiled. Carbs and intakes pulled off & gone through. Seems to me the exhaust was the most difficult part.(I just watched, I was working on other things). The fuel hoses and cooling hoses should be done with the motor out. Other details I just don't know...but I could ask, if you need the info. Cannot promise hourly responses though.

good luck, take your time.
E

J.P.Sarti · #14 01-12-2006, 10:30 AM

Any tips on getting the exhaust header bolts?

It looks very difficult to get a tool in there.

robertinOK · #15 01-12-2006, 11:52 AM

The exhaust bolts are not easy. A combination of 3/8" sockets with multiple extensions and UJ's gets 7 of the 10. The last 3 bolts are a pain! Take the front header off first, it'll make the rear one easier to get at. I found I needed to get my hand up through the 1/2 shaft opening with a spanner or ratcheting 3/8" drive. The nuts are all 13mm..I wish I'd had a 1/4" drive, 13mm socket with extensions, it would have been a little easier.

Did the manifolds come from the factory with the heatsheilds, or were they added upon entry to the US? I must admit the welding, and the sheilds look a little rough. I've attached a pic of the manifolds after welding yesterday...they still need cleaning, but under the grime they are perfect.

As I've got to renew the clutch, I'll ake the housing off whilst the engine is still in the car...this should make it's removal a little easier I think. I'm not sure it's the clutch thats worn, there's quiet a bit of oil under there so It may be the crankshaft seal.

I've also added the first pic I took of the project. Note: I built a pit to work on the car!

Robert

**PINNIN512** · #16 01-12-2006, 02:10 PM

They all came this way. Do not reweld over the original welds you will go through the thin steel tubes . This has been done with several cars and ended up rebuilding the whole exhaust.Seems the welds are rough but just enough to hold the shields on - not to seal up anything.Please post more pictures.Always interesting.

**PINNIN512** · #17 01-12-2006, 02:18 PM

I just noticed your pit!!!!!!! I need that soooo bad. Do you have rails to guide the tires from not driving in the pit?

BoxerCrazy · #18 01-12-2006, 03:22 PM

The Boxer goes without saying,but must add "Nice Ducati Too"

doug

robertinOK · #19 01-12-2006, 06:10 PM

The exhaust heat sheilds were comming loose, but seeing your advice on not welding (too late for me!) I went and checked them out: They were mig welded (tacked) over the orriginal welds, and there is a slight discolouring inside the manifold, but no protrusion. The guy I use is pretty good, and he was warned about the problem. I didn't want the insulation material falling out, and also wanted to ensure they were as close to perfect as poss. before they are ceramic coated.

Just removed the fuel mettering units (watch the large bolt underneath...17mm and needs a spaner on each end, but no need to undo it more than a few turns as the mount is slotted), the starter, and the clutch housing: all easy stuff with no problems. The clutch has worn down to the rivets...time for a new one I guess. There is about a pint of oil in there...

The Ducati is fun: It a Ferracci built 1026cc engine...It's been dyno'd at 150 BHP at the back wheel (about 174 at the crank I'm guessing).

Robert

**Artvonne** · #20 01-12-2006, 08:54 PM

Looking at these pics, I was wondering how many miles, and how long since the car had an angine out service? Looks like its been in there a while?