The 348 "How To" Guide To Shock Replacement

This is a work in progress started by Rexrcr and No Doubt. Please add any tips and/or corrections in subsequent posts (pictures appreciated and hereby solicited).

Changing 348 Shocks (Front and Rear):

Tools: Spring compressor. If you don't have it, then buy it. They can be had for $10 at Harbor Freight Tools. Ten Dollars. Do NOT think that you are in such a hurry as to attempt this job without first getting the right tools. If you are really strapped for cash, you can even borrow a spring compressor from a local chain auto parts store for free. DO NOT use the brute force method. Why risk injury for not having a tool that can be had for $10? Please do this job safely, OK? All right (off soap box).

Pry bar. Large adjustable wrench. Permanent marker. Masking tape. Dial caliper. Floor jack. 2 jack stands (4 for whole car). 4 Chock Blocks.

There is one caveat to all this:
Replacing the shocks may require a wheel alignment. However, carefully measuring the original location of the lower spring perch (theaded), plus counting the number of turns required to remove (write it down on masking tape on the shock itself), will minimize or eliminate any change in alignment or corner weight.

The Process:
1. Jack the car up and get it on stands (don't forget the opposing chocks if you are only doing the front or back half of the car).

2. Remove your wheels and set them aside.

3. Break loose but DO NOT remove the top shock bolt #35 (see rear shock picture below) or shock bolt #25 (see front shock picture below) . This is so when it comes time to remove it, you're not having to hold/hug the spring/shock assembly as you twist this bolt off. Might as well break it loose now while the car's chassis is holding the shock assembly still for you. Note: if you have air tools (highly recommended), then this step probably won't matter.

4. Remove everything that is connected to the shock prior to pulling it out. Move or remove the brake lines (hanging the brake calipers on a wire out of the way is better because you don’t need to break the hydraulic line and then subsequently bleed your brakes), calipers, ABS, et al., and when you see that there are no other lines still connected to the entire shock assembly, then you can proceed with step 5.

5. Place a floor jack underneath the lower control arm.

6. Remove the bottom shock bolt and move the shock assembly. Note: the Front suspension requires removing both the lower shock bolt and adjacent ball joint. This will cause the caster shims to fall out so note their position first and the fact that the shims have two different sized holes. Use your marker and masking tape. Mark everything (you won't be sorry, no one regrets too many notes).

The Rear suspension may even require a pry bar to lower the upright/hub assembly away from the lower portion of the shock. You’re fighting “sticktion” in the control arm bushings to do this.

7. Remove the top four (marked as #23 in the front diagram, or #18 in the rear drawing) shock mount bolts (although this varies based on the spring/shock assembly, you typically remove those 4 bolts prior to compressing the large shock spring. However, if in doubt, then compress the spring first) and pull out your shock.

8. Note with tape where both ends of the spring press into the rubber vibration isolators AND note the original orientation of the spring (i.e. which end of the spring is UP (typically is correct when you can read the part number as installed).

Label the shock RF, LF, RR, or LR.

9. With the spring compressors, compress the spring to remove the tension on the top part of the assembly.

10. Now completely remove bolt #35 (for rear) or #25 (for front) that you loosened in step 3 and disassemble the shock. As you remove the shock components, arrange them sequentially on the floor nearby for easy reference in reassembly.

Use a dial caliper to measure the distance from the threaded lower spring mount to the lower edge of the shock body for reference. Write down the dial caliper measurement number and the shock position (e.g "LF," etc.) on masking tape.

Count the number of turns to remove the threaded lower spring mounts. Write this down on masking tape, too.

11. Transfer the threaded lower spring mount and lock nut to your new shock; follow your above notes for location; label the body of the new shock for position on the car (LF, etc.).

Next, using your new shock, reinsert the spring (still compressed by the
spring compressor). Reconstruct the top shock assembly in reverse order in which you did step 10.

NOTE: Shims and bump rubber are easy to assemble in the wrong order, potentially damaging the shock.

12. Once you have reinserted and tightened down the top shock bolt #35 (or #25 if front), then slowly release the spring from your spring compressor.

PAY ATTENTION TO SPRING ALIGNMENT.

13. Reinsert the shock in the wheel well and push it up so that the four screws are protruding into the engine bay. Tighten but do not torque the four top bolts in the engine bay.

14. Align the bottom part of the shock (reinstalling front caster shims) and insert the bottom bolt. Torque down the bolt only AFTER placing the weight of the corner of the car onto a floor jack (keep your safety stands in position!).

15. Tighten the top four bolts. Verify that the center bolt #35 (or #25 for front) is still tight.

16. Reattach the brakes, calipers, ABS, etc.

17. When you complete the other side, then put your wheels back on and lower the car.

18. RECHECK the torque on all top bolts for each side when the car is back on the ground and the shocks are again supporting the weight of the car.

19. Bleed the brakes if you disconnected any brake lines (not necessary if you just hung the calipers out of the way).

20. That's it. Now take the car to the shop and get your front wheels realigned.
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