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  #1  
Old 06-12-2011, 07:03 PM
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How do I repair a broken steel cable?

I need some ideas on repairing a convertible top cable.

It is a thin cable that has snapped. Replacing the cable is a major task and if I can just repair the cable, it would be MUCH easier.

What is the best way to join two broken ends of a small steel cable together? Keep in mind that this cable is under tension and I wish to preserve its length (ie not shorten it).

I already tried wire crimping it which certainly joined the pieces together. The problem was that this repair cannot handle the tension.

Ideas?
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:08 PM
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depends on if you have room for a couple of these.

Buy them at a bike shop, or good hardware store, they are wire cable clamps.

place one clamp on each end of the frayed cable (neaten up the ends and shorten them just a little bit.) then splice in a short section of NEW cable to preserve the original length between the clamps. Do it carefully, get it good and tight when you squeeze the clamp, and you'll be fine.

We do it fairly regularly on a couple pieces of machinery we have, the clamps stand up to 1500 lbs of dead weight without a problem.

D
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Last edited by dm_n_stuff; 06-12-2011 at 07:09 PM. Reason: oops forgot the pic.
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:32 PM
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Thanks, that is just what I was looking for.

How do you crimp it? Is there a special tool?
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:45 PM
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I bet I know what cable you're talking about. Just had mine replaced on both sides. In fact, the car is still at LFSC in Il. I'm hoping to get it back early this week.
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by enzo thecat View Post
I bet I know what cable you're talking about. Just had mine replaced on both sides. In fact, the car is still at LFSC in Il. I'm hoping to get it back early this week.
What was the damage for that job?
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:00 PM
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You need a fence wire connector to attempt repair.
http://www.kencove.com/fence/Connectors_products.php

What Dave shows is a crimp sleeve. If you can get the right size, a quik splice will be a clearer solution. Either will work. The crimp sleeve requires a crimping tool.
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:20 PM
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Unless the car is a piece of crap and you'll be junking it next week, replace the cable.

If the cable broke, what makes you think a splice will last?
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Old 06-13-2011, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2NA View Post
Unless the car is a piece of crap and you'll be junking it next week, replace the cable.

If the cable broke, what makes you think a splice will last?
While I agree that replacement is the better option, I can tell you that we use these splices on heavy duty lift tables without incident. They're lifting pallets of paperboard that can weigh in excess of 1000 lbs and hold up very well.

d
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:31 AM
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Crimp tool

Just a thought..The suggested repair looks to be the perfect solution..If the repair is to be done in situ..drive to your friendly hardware store or boating supply store..they will no doubt have the tool for the job since this is a common request..I'll just bet that they'll be way to happy to let you use it on your Ferrari..it's probably as close as the clerk will get to one..just a thought...Jacques.
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Old 06-13-2011, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Periokid View Post
What was the damage for that job?
A little under 1K.
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Old 06-13-2011, 02:28 PM
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Nicopress tool
http://www.nicopress.com/T1.htm
They are very strong and reliable IF done correctly. Try a boat repair shop.
But have you tried using the broken ends to fish a new cable in?
You can put in a short piece of new wire rope, but then you're making 2 splices. Is there clearance for the splices to pass when moving? If your repair makes the cable shorter than originally, is there adjustment for that?

Last edited by Pranucci; 06-13-2011 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 06-13-2011, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pranucci View Post
Nicopress tool
http://www.nicopress.com/T1.htm
They are very strong and reliable IF done correctly. Try a boat repair shop.
But have you tried using the broken ends to fish a new cable in?
You can put in a short piece of new wire rope, but then you're making 2 splices. Is there clearance for the splices to pass when moving? If your repair makes the cable shorter than originally, is there adjustment for that?
Why did it break originally?

What car are we discussing here? Pictures?
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Old 06-13-2011, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2NA View Post
Why did it break originally?

What car are we discussing here? Pictures?
Apparently these cable break all the time on the F430 spider.

I don't have pics but I can get some.
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Old 06-13-2011, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pranucci View Post
Try a boat repair shop.
+1 or a really good fishing shop. Lots of options on cable, crimps and tools. (think leaders and downrigger)

Rick
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 2NA View Post
Pictures?

Mine just got back from the dealer. The top is now perfect. This has been something I've been trying to chase down for years. Several years ago, the dealer even took the top apart and never found the broken cable. This time they took apart the good side and saw THAT one fraying. Then they realized that the same part was missing from the side I was complaining about. Turns out is was broken in two and hanging out of sight.

Pictures, sure. This is one of the sides. The dealer was kind enough to include the packaging from the new part.
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:34 PM
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Looks to be part #9 in the drawing (of which there are 2). With a break that close to the end I don't see how a splice is practical or even possible.

The length of the cable looks pretty critical. I don't think you can get away with shortening it.
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Last edited by 2NA; 06-15-2011 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2NA View Post
Looks to be part #9 in the drawing (of which there are 2). With a break that close to the end I don't see how a splice is practical or even possible.
Yes, I am doubtful a splice will work for the OP if this is the same issue. The experts tell me that these cables endure a hull'uv'a'lot of tension when the top is activated.



P.S. Could it be #8?

Last edited by enzo thecat; 06-15-2011 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 06-16-2011, 06:08 AM
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It is not #8. It is 9. It is true that if this cable is shortened during repair that this fix won't work. Thus my statement to maintain the length.
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Old 06-16-2011, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 2NA View Post
Looks to be part #9 in the drawing (of which there are 2). With a break that close to the end I don't see how a splice is practical or even possible.

The length of the cable looks pretty critical. I don't think you can get away with shortening it.
Actaully the break near the end could be repaired with only one splice and a new end.
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Old 06-21-2011, 05:33 AM
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re

Thanks, that is just what I was looking for.
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