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  #41  
Old 11-13-2012, 04:12 PM
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Conversely

What if no heat?
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  #42  
Old 05-12-2013, 03:30 PM
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Heat on all settings!

Reviving this thread. My fan control and vent controls work fine, no problems there. But, regardless of them control, I get hot heat...all the time. I have checked all fuses with the exception of the "hidden" one and they are fine. I examined the stepper motor and valve while moving the temp control from each extreme, pausing for a minute. No movement. Unplugged power and stuck a test light probe in the white wire, and grounded the light. When I now move the temp control from each extreme position, and wait, I see the test light illuminate for several seconds, then go out. Would that be considered normal operation?

I am trying to determine if I need a new stepper motor. If so, I know this will be hell to source, as they are not made by Bosch anymore, at least using the Bosch number and Saab number. Another Fchatter claimed there is a BMW that uses the same part (in the interchangeable parts thread) and I ran the number and a few BMW dealers have the part for $351 plus shipping. But I have not had anyone confirm it is the same part....
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  #43  
Old 06-03-2013, 09:14 PM
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Went ahead and swapped out the stepper motor...found one for $50 used at a local Saab wrecking yard. After removing the assembly, shortening the shaft and installing, it all works normally again. Pain in the ass job, but done. You will need a pair of plastic line clamps to pinch off the hoses so you don't have a gusher of coolant coming out during the removal of the assembly. $12 at the local Harbor Freight for a set of three or four.

FYI, the hose clamp on the back side is a single use type and had to be cut off (used Dremel tool with cut off wheel). I replaced with the normal type, as used on the front side.
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  #44  
Old 07-17-2013, 08:40 PM
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Important info on Bosch part #0 390 721 006!!!

There is an important sub part number to this item, I just learned today. There is a number in a circle "944" after the main part number Bosch part #0 390 721 006

It is important you get the one with the "944", if you get the one with "917" the operation is reversed, and it won't work! I got mine from a Saab breaker parts dealer and he had both. I got lucky the first time, and it worked perfectly. Today, I was helping a friend fix his, and got one with "917" on it, and it worked in reverse. We called the Saab specialist and he admitted there are different versions and he was at a loss to know which was which, but when we checked my car, my old broken one, and the one we removed off my friends car, all had "944" after Bosch part #0 390 721 006.
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  #45  
Old 07-18-2013, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f355spider View Post
There is an important sub part number to this item, I just learned today. There is a number in a circle "944" after the main part number Bosch part #0 390 721 006

It is important you get the one with the "944", if you get the one with "917" the operation is reversed, and it won't work! I got mine from a Saab breaker parts dealer and he had both. I got lucky the first time, and it worked perfectly. Today, I was helping a friend fix his, and got one with "917" on it, and it worked in reverse. We called the Saab specialist and he admitted there are different versions and he was at a loss to know which was which, but when we checked my car, my old broken one, and the one we removed off my friends car, all had "944" after Bosch part #0 390 721 006.
Thanks for the write-up, would you mind posting this info in the parts interchange thread if you haven't already?
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  #46  
Old 07-18-2013, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cuneo View Post
Thanks for the write-up, would you mind posting this info in the parts interchange thread if you haven't already?
Yes, of course, posted the update there last night...
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  #47  
Old 07-28-2013, 10:05 AM
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I had the same problem and found a used SAAB part on eBay. However before fitting it i tested the SAAB motor with a 12V supply to see if it worked ok. It turned as it should and when the polarity was reversed it turned the other way. Before taking off my old motor i thought i'd test test it on the car in the same way and guess what? It worked! It had been stuck half way and no amount of adjustment on the control panel would move it but after cycling back to the shut position the correct movement was restored and it worked as it should.

I had a battery failure on the car and was wondering if this caused the motor to stick in a half closed position? It just needed reset and i believe many other owners have had the same issues and have unnecessarily replaced a perfectly good motor. So please test it by connecting a 12V supply to the 1st and 4th terminals to see if this resets it before replacing.
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  #48  
Old 09-23-2013, 04:31 PM
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Axe of valve broken, from (air outside or air inside circulation valve)

Hello,

I have not the same problem, but a similar one.

There is a valve controlled by number 19 in this drawing from 'no doubt' his post.
This one controls if air comes from the outside of the car, or inside the car, if you push the button.
The problem is there is a constant ticking noise coming from this valve.

After looking further into the issue I found that the axe is broken that is connect from the valve to the little motor (19).

My question is, if there are any replacements available, or known issues like these. Fixing it with glue will not hold it I think, the valve is to heavy.


Quote:
Originally Posted by No Doubt View Post
Hey Chaa, it's the same on the 348 as on the 355.

The Heater Control Valve that causes the E5 error code is supposed to be $1,000 new from Ferrari ($700+ new at EuroSpares). It is made up of two removable components: a small electric motor and a plastic valve.

You can buy the whole unit, or you can buy half of the unit and snap the two parts together.

The silver/metal electric motor on top of the (pictured below) two-part heater-control-valve is Bosch part #0 390 721 006, which is the Saab 9000 P/N 9625435 at $139.00 (always good to be able to walk into a local Saab dealership for parts when you don't have a Ferrari dealership in town). It's also available on-line for 73 Euros: http://www.pezzidiricambio.com/selec...=BOSCH&Muovi=3

The black plastic valve second half of the above (pencil is touching it in picture) costs $11 new and typically fixes this error code and underlying problem: http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/the...y=All&dp=false

FYI: the Ferrari part number for the two E5 parts combined is: 63306400 (#8 in diagram below)

Take apart the valve and it should correctly show 5 Ohms resistance when closed. But bad ones will go to infinity.
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  #49  
Old 05-28-2014, 06:00 PM
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Smile Black Plastic Valve

I have an identical problem in that my heater has started blowing just cold air when on (no hot even with the highest hot air setting).

I've sourced a second hand Bosch control valve from a Saab parts specialist but can anyone help with a part number for the VW black plastic valve mentioned in this thread?

Or at least identify the year/model of VW?

Since my F355 is now 18yrs old I figure its worth changing both parts whilst I have the bonnet interior disassembled!

Thanks
John
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  #50  
Old 10-31-2014, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiewyj View Post
I have an identical problem in that my heater has started blowing just cold air when on (no hot even with the highest hot air setting).

I've sourced a second hand Bosch control valve from a Saab parts specialist but can anyone help with a part number for the VW black plastic valve mentioned in this thread?

Or at least identify the year/model of VW?

Since my F355 is now 18yrs old I figure its worth changing both parts whilst I have the bonnet interior disassembled!

Thanks
John
VW Part number is #171 819 809e it costs about $15
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  #51  
Old 03-15-2015, 12:25 PM
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Smile VW Paer number

Many thanks TR 512.

Will find the VW valve and get this job done before the baking hot UK summer arrives!
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  #52  
Old 03-15-2015, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by hiewyj View Post
Many thanks TR 512.

Will find the VW valve and get this job done before the baking hot UK summer arrives!
Just remember with the VW valve you have to trim the edge it no big deal.
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  #53  
Old 01-18-2017, 08:02 AM
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I hate to be that guy that revives a thread - but I am hoping someone can help me on this subject.

Based in the UK and currently helping a friend source a replacement Heater Valve. The car is currently at a reputable UK Specialist, but they were unable to source a new replacement.

I asked them to send the Heater Valve back and in the meantime ordered one of the stepper motors from a Saab breaker.

When the original arrived, the partner number on the motor is 005, not 006 and this means that the plug is different to the one on the 006 that I received from the saab breaker.

did anyone else experience this at all? the car is not a UK car as it is LHD, but I have a feeling it was an Italian car. it is a 1997 car.

thanks in advance and sorry for reviving a VERY old thread.
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  #54  
Old 01-18-2017, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rowan89 View Post
I hate to be that guy that revives a thread - but I am hoping someone can help me on this subject.

Based in the UK and currently helping a friend source a replacement Heater Valve. The car is currently at a reputable UK Specialist, but they were unable to source a new replacement.

I asked them to send the Heater Valve back and in the meantime ordered one of the stepper motors from a Saab breaker.

When the original arrived, the partner number on the motor is 005, not 006 and this means that the plug is different to the one on the 006 that I received from the saab breaker.

did anyone else experience this at all? the car is not a UK car as it is LHD, but I have a feeling it was an Italian car. it is a 1997 car.

thanks in advance and sorry for reviving a VERY old thread.
If you are referring to the "electrical plug / connector", then no problem, just splice the wires. The motors are essentially all the same with some proprietary mods per manufacturer. T
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  #55  
Old 01-19-2017, 06:39 PM
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If you look at the Heater Valve packaging in the photo, towards the bottom of page 1 (posted by Johan in Sweden in 2007), you'll see it's from Ruesselsheim, Germany. That is Opel country (HQ). I'll bet with a bit of research you will find it was used on some, possibly many, Opel models and possibly Vauxhall, for you UK lot. I wouldn't spend too much time concentrating on "Saab-sourcing" this part. Try Opel/Vauxhall.

Doesn't help the folks in the U.S. or Asia but maybe in Europe/UK.

PS. and why are you apologizing for reviving an old thread??? no point in re-inventing the wheel :-)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rowan89 View Post
I hate to be that guy that revives a thread - but I am hoping someone can help me on this subject.

Based in the UK and currently helping a friend source a replacement Heater Valve. The car is currently at a reputable UK Specialist, but they were unable to source a new replacement.

I asked them to send the Heater Valve back and in the meantime ordered one of the stepper motors from a Saab breaker.

When the original arrived, the partner number on the motor is 005, not 006 and this means that the plug is different to the one on the 006 that I received from the saab breaker.

did anyone else experience this at all? the car is not a UK car as it is LHD, but I have a feeling it was an Italian car. it is a 1997 car.

thanks in advance and sorry for reviving a VERY old thread.

Last edited by eulk328; 01-19-2017 at 06:47 PM.
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  #56  
Old 01-19-2017, 09:19 PM
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  #57  
Old 03-12-2017, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baggio850 View Post
I had the same problem and found a used SAAB part on eBay. However before fitting it i tested the SAAB motor with a 12V supply to see if it worked ok. It turned as it should and when the polarity was reversed it turned the other way. Before taking off my old motor i thought i'd test test it on the car in the same way and guess what? It worked! It had been stuck half way and no amount of adjustment on the control panel would move it but after cycling back to the shut position the correct movement was restored and it worked as it should.

I had a battery failure on the car and was wondering if this caused the motor to stick in a half closed position? It just needed reset and i believe many other owners have had the same issues and have unnecessarily replaced a perfectly good motor. So please test it by connecting a 12V supply to the 1st and 4th terminals to see if this resets it before replacing.
Is anyone able to confirm which terminals are the 1st & 4th? There are 5 pins on the connector and I don't want to put 12V across the wrong ones in case I do damage to the 'new' motor I've bought.

I've actually bought 2x motors (both sub code 917) which allegedly work in reverse to the sub code 944 variants. Anyone managed to get these to work correctly?
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  #58  
Old 03-20-2017, 05:56 PM
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Anyone able to help?
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Plus de chauffage et c'est l'hiver brrrr... - Ferrari 348 - F355 - TheFerrarista - Ferrari Owners Only This thread Refback 02-08-2016 12:54 PM
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