For Chemists-Home Made Fuel Additive

you sure it's not the APRIL edition??

 

Actually, if it did not stop something up, eat something up, kill someone with the fumes, or such - napthalene is (was) considered a sort of octane booster something like tetra-ethyl lead. They used to use benzene compounds in some racing fuels for similar purposes.

While it may not take you to 107 (!), who cares? No modern engines need this octane number and more than what they were designed for makes no difference...like running 93 in a car made for 87.

BTW, what in the world did they say the WD-40 was in there for?

BTW2 - this reminds me of the Mr. Roberts scene where Glenn Ford and the Thin Man Guy are making fake scotch for Ensign Pulver.

 

Never ceases to amaze me that so many people, even car folks, believe that higher octane = more power. Unless you've got high compression as to need higher octane, it does nothing whatsoever. If you car is running well on 92 or 93, no knocking or pinging, you don't need more octane. This sounds like an incredibly dumb idea to me. But what do I know?

 

Modern computer driven engines can change the ignition curve to accomodate for changes in octane rating. Anti knock sensors will change settings to allow for lower octane but produce less power as a result. The reverse is also true to a certain extent.


Russell

 

Straight Toluene is a common method racers use to boost octane in their fuel. Like mentioned previously, unless you are running high compression or advanced timing it does no good.

 

Higher octane does equal more power sometimes and this isn't that dumb if you think about it long enough. A knock sensor will retard your ignition when it senses the ping, right? That's a power drop. This way you can buy less expensive gas and boost it for a buck or so.

That is, of course, if this cocktail really works.

My little Scirocco is 10:1 with a factory knock sensor. If I don't buy the 93, it runs like ****. And I KNOW I am not the only person out there that has this same problem with an older car.

 

Jeeze, all you have to do is use Naphtha a liquid solvent from any hardware store as a substitution for mothballs and much more potent. as far as the WD-40 nothing more than a penetrating solvent with a light lubricant for upper cyl. lube. the carb. cleaner will do nothing.

 

I would NOT suggest using the following fuel mixtures without considering the detrimental effects on your engine, vital engine components (O2 sensor, etc), and other potential damage, including but not limited to the legalities of using these formulas in on-road vehicles. Chemical gloves and face shield should always be used when mixing chemicals. That said, the information is interesting and should be used at your own risk. If you are not familar in chemical handling proper mixing techniques, and consider yourself an expert, DO NOT READ ANY FURTHER!!!!!!

Formula #1 - Toluene
R+M/2.........114
Mix with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.2 Octane
20%...........96.4 Octane
30%...........98.6 Octane

Formula #2 - Xylene
R+M/2.........117
Mix with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.5 Octane
20%...........97.0 Octane
30%...........99.5 Octane

Formula #3 - Methyl-tertiary-butyl-ether (MTBE)
R+M/2.........118
Mix with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.6 Octane
20%...........97.2 Octane
30%...........99.8 Octane

Formula #4 - Methanol or Ethanol
R+M/2.........101
Mix with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.3 Octane (Methanol)
10%...........94.7 Octane (Ethanol)
20%...........Not Recommended .

Formula #5 - Isopropyl Alcohol and Tertiary Butyl Alcohol
R+M/2.........101
Mix with 92 Octane Premium
10%...........94.5 Octane
20%...........Not Recommended
30%...........Not Recommended

Formula #6 Mix
1 gallon acetone
1 gallon xylene
1 quart good quality synthetic 2-cycle oil.
(8 -12 oz per 15 gal)

Formula #7 Mix
100 oz of toluene for octane boost
25 oz of mineral spirits (cleaning agent)
3 oz of transmission fluid (lubricating agent)
(Diesel fuel or kerosene can be substituted for mineral spirits and light turbine oil can be substituted for transmission fluid).

Formula #8 Highest HP Mix (use at your own risk, do not leave formula in your tank) (8oz mix / 15 gal petrol) (typically used for "Race" day fuel prep "cheaters fuel")
1 gallon 1-Nitropropane
1 quart Toluene
1 quart Methanol
16 oz Acetone
(8 oz / 15 gal)

Keep in mind many of the above additives do not increase the heat value of your fuel mix (many will lower this value), but may allow the use of higher compression ratios without detonation. Fuel formulas need to be considered in the overall mechanical package of your particular vehicle, its use, and regulations which may limit the specific gravity for the fuel additives used. That said, have fun.

 

Oh brother, not this again.

 

John, as usual, thorough research.
#8 sounds like fun!
Thanks for the info.
D

 

This stuff has been floating around the internet for the past 10 years. http://elektro.cmhnet.org/~charlie/photos/cars/audi/toluene.html

Most of these recipes are overhyped and as for #8, I've had a fuels chemist tell me its bull****. If people who own Ferraris can't afford to buy properly blended racing fuels, which are really not needed for a street car then they should find a cheaper hobby... Good luck with playing "Mr. Chemist"

 

May want to be careful mixing up strange chemicals in your garage. You may have police showing up thinking you are running a meth lab.

 

I think I'll try a few of these out on my lawn mower during growing season.

 

Hans

NitroPropane is one nasty mix, cousin to NitroMethane, but will mix nicely with pump gas unlike NM. You obtain a higher heat value from this mix, and you will see greater seat dyno numbers. Don’t get the ratio wrong, or you’ll be staring at a puddle of Dino and some aluminum shards, with other bits here and there. Oh, did I say it’s real corrosive.

Lawnmower, LOL, make sure you wear your seat belt, Burl won’t be too happy when you blow the resonator off at his new Biturbo.

JCR,

Those chemical engineers need to get out of the lab, and see some dyno results, and real world experiences.

I’ve not found any Ferrari owners manuals suggest using Racing fuel (as you have stated, it’s typically unnecessary), and would caution against fuel blending experiments in your Ferrari unless you’re a chemical engineer, or just don’t give a ****. Although, additives are used for many other reasons, typically cleaning things out. European fuels have a higher Toluene content than fuels blended in the US, which is one of the many reasons they cost more.

The Blown Buick is a complete different situation

 

Yes, I agree. That's all true. But my point being that most if not all modern cars are designed to run optimally on at most 92 or 93 octane. You will run just fine at optimal power at that octane level. You only need to go for higher octane if your engine is designed to utilize it. Lots of people take cars that are designed to run on 87 octane and put 93 in thinking it will give them more power. It won't. Total waste of money. That's all I was trying to say. And as far as this additive goes, if your engine is not designed to utilize 100+ octane, again it's a total waste of time, effort and money. My $.02.

 

LOL,
X2
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Did Burl trade in his TC for a Biturbo? I'll have to swing over and take a look....................................

BTW, my mower is a walk-behind. I tie a rope to it and throw it out in the blackberries at full throttle, then reel it in. I'll have to "stone" the blades for this experiment...

 

350HPMondial just gave me a good idea (pic’s included), Dana, while your checking out the Bi, sneak 20 oz into the tank of #8 formula above.

Edwardo already included the after photo’s, which we can add to the list as another way to remove Chrysler’s injustice and waste of engineering talent. Oh, and don’t forget Sun Glasses.

 

Actually, the formula makes very good sense. Moth balls are naphthalene, which is a highly unsaturated double benzene ring. That means that it will increase octane rating. Refineries typically use benzene, toluene, ethylbenzene, and xylene (the BTEX compounds) to increase octane. Xylene often is a main component in fuel injection cleaners. You can buy toluene and xylene (xylol) in any paint department (Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.). I'm not totally sure about WD-40 but I do know that it has organic solvents and its purpose in the mixture is to remove water.

A BIG word or caution when preparing the mixture - do it in an area with PLENTY of ventilation (preferably outdoors) and don't stick your nose directly over any of the materials.

Happy Motoring!

 

Deposit control additives are fairly complex compounds. The challenge the additive manufactures have is producing a chemical blend that cleans without harming the engine or any of the components. THey spend big $$ researching this stuff as they don't want to be replacing lots of engines. Be careful.